What's Your Carving Method?

Aloha carvers,

We’re always working on our techniques, maybe now would be a good time to share a little. This is how I’m going about it these days.

1. Chainsaw cuts for the log ends. Makita UC3500.
2. 4-1/2” angle grinder with Lancelot chainsaw disc for removing bark and rough shaping & smoothing the log.
3. 4-1/2” angle grinder with 24 up to 60 grit sanding disk to level the log ends and smooth the sides.
4. Japanese style pull saw for deep cuts (like the mouth).
5. Chisels for all the rough-out work and shallower depth cuts.
6. Die grinder with drum sanders and course sanding sleeves to smooth up all of the detail, anywhere and everywhere I can get to. My die grinders are air operated, but I think I’d recommend electric instead.
7. Tungsten carbide burrs different shapes for all the nooks and crannies that I couldn’t reach with the drum sanders.
8. Hand sanding with those rubber wedge things to get inside all of the detail areas - 60, 100, then 150 grit.
9. Random orbital sander for all of the other areas - 60, 100, then 150 grit.

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Here are some new tools that I’m thinking of buying to improve the process.

1. Flexcut Draw knife.
2. Quarter-tip carving bar for the chainsaw. Regular (not anti-kickback ¼ pitch chain).
3. Kutzall Extreme 4” wheels for work in-between the Lancelot/Squire & sanding disc stage. This would be used mainly on larger pieces. Course, medium, or fine? Which would be most useful? These are also pretty expensive.
4. Arbortech mini-carver with Arbortech mini discs.
5. mini Kutzall Extreme wheels. for use with the Arbortech mini-carver.
6. Squire mini chainsaw disc (mounts solo or tandem with the Lancelot).
7. Kutzall extreme burrs. The burrs I have are the cheap Chinese ones, and I think these will cut lots faster. Not sure which ones to get. They are pretty expensive. Which shapes are the most useful? Extra course, course, medium, or fine?
8. Roto chisels for use with a straight die grinder. Chainsaw carvers use these to come up with textures like hair for grizzly bears. What’s the best shape for all around use?

Mahalo to anyone who can answer some of these questions before I spend all of my $$$ on them…

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Here’s some tools that I’ve seen, and would like to know more if anyone here has used them:

1. Thor transparent disc.
2. Imperial power chisel.
3. Arbortech Woodcarver.

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Would anyone else like to share their methodology? Comments? Advice???

Mahalo,

A-A

Ever use a flap wheel to smooth out areas before sanding?

Flap Wheels are the bomb!

I used to use a set of woodcutting knives I bought for $6 at a craft store. Two weeks ago I invested in a $45 set of 5 tiny knives. The only power tool I use is a carbide burr for my dremel that I use to help rough out the main shape. That's all I own.

Aaron don't waste your time on the Arbortech Mini Grinder.....Been through two of these pieces of junk. The belt that drives it slips too much and it is too bheavy/bulky. I'm using a Proxxon Longneck Right Angle grinder (Merlin) with the percival chainsaw disc now. It works much better....

Yeah, some of the fancy stuff, is a waste of money. Nothing can replace a good chainsaw and set of chisels. Not to mention a well conditioned carving shoulder. At the end of summer, you can tell I've been carving cause I look like one of them one bog claw crabs.

Ahhh, this is a great thread. It would be great if people posting, could put links like AA did. Love it!

I have a huge advantage working at a tool store. I get everything at cost + 10%. So I can make my list. Makita 4 1/2" grinder, Lancelot (22 tooth?) flap wheels, grinding wheels, chisels, mallet, burrs, drewel with flex shaft, wax, diamond hones, Delta sharpening center, Japanese saw, axe, wood rasps... If I actualy had the money. I suppose I will keep buying a little at a time.

McTiki & Swanky: I’ve seen those Flap Wheels but never thought of using them on my carvings. I guess they would work pretty well to cut down on the tedious sanding of all the in-between stuff. Great suggestion!

FinkDaddy: I know how you feel. I keep negotiating with my wahine for more tool $$$’s. I still use a lot of my first tools, though. In my mind I know those expensive Flexcut chisels I bought are the best to use, but find myself picking up the flat Stanleys more often than not. BTW, I forgot one tool I need, but will have to make myself. It’s this custom ultra flat ”Duckbill” chisel that BK mentioned in the original “Tiki Carving Methodology” post. Not expensive at all.

Tiki G.: Thanks for the advice – you just saved me some money. I saw that Proxxon Mini-Angle Grinder in the Treeline catalog. It’s right next to the Arbortech Mini-Carver, and it seems to use all of the same accessories – 2”. And I agree, you have to fit the Arbortech on your angle grinder, which would be pretty heavy and probably put it off-balance. They have an order number right there for replacement belts too – an ominous sign. The Proxxon, on the other hand, has no belts and weighs less than 2 lbs., which would make it a lot easier to wield. I just thought Arbortech was a better brand – never heard of Proxxon before. Thanks for the recommendation – and all of the other advice you gave me previously. Now this Percival looks a little scary for use with a die grinder. Is that how you used it? Please tell more...

Chikitiki: Thanks, I’m working on learning chainsaw carving technique. Here's a Chainsaw Carving Froum that I've been checking in on from time to time. These folks are all about carving woodland animals, gnomes, & wood spirits (NOT tiki!), but there's some pretty good advice and experience out there as well. All I've done with my chainsaw so far really is just cut log ends with it. I agree with you that the chisel is the best way of doing the smaller wood removal. Maybe we can talk more at Oasis…

Surfintiki: There ya go, all linked up! A picture’s worth a thousand words. Really, I’ve put in all these links as much for myself as for you guys. I’m trying to get another disbursement of tool cash going. Maybe I’ll have to bribe my wife with some jewelry or something.

Swanky: I’d think hard about buying the Dremel Flex shaft. My wife bought me the whole kit with accessories, etc. for my birthday a year ago. I carved my entire first wood tiki with it. But I gotta tell you, as Benzart put it for me, it’s sort of like cleaning your garage floor with a tooth brush. If you want to work small, it will be great (1/8” shaft). But if you want to do say 12” to 36” or taller tikis, I’d get an electric die grinder and ¼” shaft tools – Burrs, drum sanders, etc.

Thanks to all of you guys for the feedback. Anyone else who feels like chiming in, please do. And I'm curious - are most of you following the same methodology as me? Or have you found some shortcuts or other ways of getting the same or better results? I'm always open to learning newer better ways of carving tikis.

Cheers!

A-A

On 2005-04-07 14:11, thechikitiki wrote:
Not to mention a well conditioned carving shoulder. At the end of summer, you can tell I've been carving cause I look like one of them one bog claw crabs.

I have that problem already... three carving jobs in a row going right now... by September I should look like that too...

[ Edited by: Lake Surfer on 2005-04-07 22:18 ]

Aaron I have tried every way I know how to use the percival on a air die grinder. It does not work very well on the straight ones, wrong angle for carving, so I went out and found a longneck right angle air die grinder and it works good. I use the single "percival" on the Proxxon mostly though for clean-up. The electric is less noisey and is lighter. I do not recommend heavy carving with it though and make sure you keep it clean out (dust)....I have burnt one up already, but it was my ouwn fault I think. Don't over heat it either, let it cool down every now and then. The little flap wheels that come with the"wizard" are great. Try'em out.......

G.

[ Edited by: Tiki G. on 2005-04-08 04:08 ]

Thanks, Gary.

Yeah, I was a little confused about the Percival, because it looks like it has a long shaft attached in the picture. I’ll figure it out though. It looks like a handy tool to have and I’ve really enjoyed using the Lancelot so far. As far as air tools go, I have a 13 gallon compressor, and it’s just not quite enough for the work I’m doing. That’s why I’d recommend electric unless someone can afford a large compressor, maybe 5 hp with a large tank. The 13 gallon runs low when I’m sanding or grinding, then I have to wait for it to catch up. I’m going to buy a 11 gallon reserve tank and put it in-line to improve the capacity, but the motor hp will still be a bit low for my needs. A friend gave me the compressor and air tools gratis, so I can’t complain too much. Mahalo again.

chisels and knives only, i will ona rare occasion use a chainsaw if i have to make a huge cut, but other wise only chisels and knives

AA, what type of mallet do you use? I started with rubber mallets, then I got a urethane head carver mallet (18oz.). With it and my new set Marples chisels ,3/8" to 1",I see why everyone said to get better tools. I learned on the cheaper chisels,the Marples ,they stay sharp longer, and feel better in my hands. My next tool I plan to get is some kind of power sander, I hate hand sanding. Doc Tiki

Hey, Octane. Glad to see you back!

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On 2005-04-08 23:01, doctiki wrote:
AA, what type of mallet do you use?

Hi Doc, I think I'm using what you're using. It's the "Wood is Good" mallot. I bought mine at Rockler's. I use the 18 oz. also, but sometimes it seems like the 30 oz. would work better. It would be nice to have both.

A-A

When I attack a piece of wood, ANY tool that will remove the chunks is what I use. Chisels, gouges, knives, forks, (scratch that)files foredom, angle grinder, die grinder, band saw, table saw, chain saw jewelers saw, coping saw,metal working tools, woodworking tools, a few choice words at the appropriate time, a little blood, a lot of sweat and a Hammer, big one sometimes. Did I leave anything out?
When I go through catalogs I always look for new and different ways to remove wood and make the job easier. Then I have to find a way to get the money to buy it. I have a list as long as my arm of tools to buy. As i can justify them, I'll get them a bit at a time.

Ben, right on, right on. All of my catalogs are wringled from me drooling at all the new dodads and tools.

I Know.. It is really a good way to learn how to do stuff. There is just something about tools that can teach you so many things.Gottta find more

Hey Ben,

It's all starting to click now, and the burrs that you pointed me to are the key, I think. I got this last tiki done in a week, doing the chiseling in 1/2 hour a day increments on my lunch break during the weekdays, then about 3 hours each day Sat & Sun while my kiddo was napping. So, about 8 or 9 hours total from chisel rough in to the first coat of varnish, which is lightning speed for me. My first wood tiki took me about 2 months in my "spare" time.

I think my next tool acquisition will have to be a nice set of the Kutzall Carbide burrs - both 1/8" and 1/4" shank. I'm just not sure what shape and courseness (sp?) to get. Those little suckers are expensive, so it's something to think about.

Swanky,

I take that back about the Dremel. I think you really need both 1/4" and 1/8" shank tools. There's a lot of places you just can't reach with the 1/4". Last weekend I set them both up side by side. When the compressor ran low on air, I just switched over to the Dremel while it caught up. Sort of a production line, back & forth.

I'm bumping this because it was a great conversation. To be resumed at "Coon-Tiki" I'm sure!

These kinds of discussions are great for beginners like me. Thanks.

I agree

Ahhhhh good times, good times.

Where the hell is Gary anywayz?