Advice on building false wall.

Hi guys.

I am about to commence work on my indoor tiki bar and would like to build a false wall as I am in a rental property. Can I get away with building a simple wooden frame (planks nailed together?) and skinning with plywood? Can anyone give advice or point me in the direction of a simple how-to for a guy with extremely minimal carpentry experience?

Much appreciated in advance :)

Also wondering what kind of foot support to use? I basically cannot physically connect the false wall to the real one.

I would basically like to build an L-shaped wall to cover the wall behind the bar and the little bit on the side leading up to the window.

[ Edited by: tikisafari 2010-05-03 00:53 ]

I build similar walls on a regular basis in my 2500 sq ft art studio/rental. Because the wall is going to be L shaped - it , if built properly, will support itself and stand in the corner in front of your wall.
I would build it out of 2x4's and skin the frame with thin plywood.. 1/4" luan plywood is passable but often the panel is not beefy enough to hang a lot of items in varying areas (unless you hit a "stud"). I prefer 1/2" plywood. If you buy it at home depot - beware!!! many of their panels are warped - be sure to get a flat panel.

Build the small wall and the longer wall independently and then join together by abutting one to the other. Remember to compensate your overall measurements for the thickness of the 2 x 4's. When planning for the upright of each wall, be sure to space them at 16" apart. Your 4' x 8' sheet of plywood edge will fall on a stud for nailing. Build the 2 x 4 wall frames with 3 1/2 in common nails - Today's deck screws will often break before they set in 2 x 4's. You can attach the plywood panels with small deck screws or nail it. The 1/2 plywood will give a nice solid surface to attach matting-bamboo-shelving or hang photos. Be Sure to "hit a stud" in your new wall when attaching a heavy item or shelf.

if you measure your project right you should be able to fit it it snugly into the corner (floor to ceiling) and the L configuration should allow it to freestand safe and secure. You might think about buying some cheap carpet sample pieces to cut and glue to the bottom of your new wall to protect your landlords finished floors from scratches as you slide the wall into place and over time. The 'glued' carpet piece will also help you slide the wall construction into place.

Thats how I would do it - others may disagree. Good luck!

[ Edited by: jpmartdog 2010-05-03 05:20 ]

All good suggestions for a false wall, but I will throw out the lazy man's idea. Buy a suitably tiki (bamboo, rattan, etc.) folding screen and put it behind the bar. If sturdy enough, you can hang lightweight decor on it too.

GK

I have to say, that is a beautiful bar. Mid Century Modern Danish at it's finest...It's teak, I'm guessing ?
Man that thing is SWEET !

That IS a nice bar!!

I built a flat (no 'L') false wall once- standard studded wood frame with drywall- and 'hung' it from the ceiling to keep it standing up (the base sat on the floor and probably had a couple screws to prevent swinging). I used 2 screw-hooks in the ceiling with rope to hold it vertical. Even had a door and still worked fine. A little spackle (ceiling) and wood putty (floor) took care of residual evidence when it was removed.

FYI- Fire codes come into play here and can bite you in the ass if the landlord is strict.. I'm no inspector, but if you leave a foot gap at the top for air circulation, a landlord shouldn't cringe (as much) if it's ever seen.

~Skully

[ Edited by: Capt'n Skully 2010-05-04 10:01 ]

Thanks for all the great suggestions guys. I have a carpenter friend who is going to help me out. Will be sure to post pics of my progress over the coming couple of months. And thanks for the comments on the bar. She is indeed teak and in great condition. Only thing I am changing is putting some bamboo matting in the bottom bit where the mask is.

I'm an architect, since what you're planning on doing is basically removable there are no fire code issues to concern yourself with. I agree with jpmartdog, I would frame it out of 2x4's at 24" O.C. and skin it with 1/2" ply. I would suggest lag-bolting the two panels to each other, that way if/ when you move you can just unbolt the panels and move them with you. They'll be heavy, but it's better than having to tear them apart and toss them when you move. You could just skin one side and leave the back open. That will make the panels lighter and will also give you the ability to run wiring for lights if you want.

Edit to add- I just noticed you're in Australia, so your building codes are no doubt different than what I'm familiar with. I still don't think it'll be an issue though, but if you're concerned you might check with a local architect. Good luck!

[ Edited by: TikiTres 2010-05-11 11:19 ]

If it's not connected to the wall it's basically a large piece of furniture, like an extra large entertainment center.

If 2x3 lumber is available in your area, it might be a good choice for the framing. In this area, 2x3's are generally drier and straighter than 2x4's for a bit less money. Lighter, too.

And don't glue that bamboo onto the bottom part, but if you must add to the bar, use some very fine brads to attach the roll bamboo, placing the brads where they won't leave too many obvious marks if you ever want to bring the bar back to its original state. It is a sweet design, and you might want to be able to preserve it as much as possible. Never know - might find a better tiki bar and decide to sell this one, in which case "original condition" will definitely get it more attention and $$$.

GK