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Beyond Tiki, Bilge, and Test / Beyond Tiki / Interesting part of living in the Appalachians

Post #50580 by Tiki_Bong on Mon, Sep 8, 2003 11:14 AM

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I took last week off work and surfed San Onofre 3 days. Last Tuesday it was 4 to 5 ft of glassey bowls, sunny and the water was about 67 degrees.

I was out at Old Man's, and about an hour into the session I saw a fin break the water quickly and go back down about 10 ft away from me.

I knew it was one of the adolescent great whites that had been seen numerous times in the area that week. Needless to say I got chicken skin, pulled my feet up on my board and thought about what to do next. I was thinking about my kids, my wife, and most importantly - my tiki collection.

Right then a couple of other surfers said "hey, did you see that fin!". But they passed it off as no big deal. Well, I wasn't gonna look like a wimp and paddle in so I stayed out. There are a couple of things I can think of that are so good, you just don't wanna stop...

(I did however paddle into the thick of the pack hoping that there was safety in numbers.)