Post #56624 by kooche on Thu, Oct 23, 2003 5:40 PM

i had always lived near salt water until i went to college...

i grew up in Laguna beach...killer beaches...creek...strands...then i moved to Sydney in 8th grade and upgraded to a fiberglass board...newport...avalon...snorkeled the reef from Cairns to Sydney...then after highschool i was on Kauai for 2 months and sailed from Hanalei to Avalon on my dad's boat...52 foot sloop named Serendipity...you can watch a satelite cross the sky from horizon to horizon with your naked eye when you are in the middle of the pacific...tom sawyer much?

i graduated highschool with 33 unexcused absences in my senior year at San Dieguito in Encinitas... all olf them were because of decent surf...the bus to school was just a trip south on the coast which spot is best today?...Beacons was the closest walk to beach so i made it my home...

tiki is the the god of war...surfing is much the same and if you haven't tried it you can't appreciate it's finer more meditative quality...i miss it SO MUCH now that i live in LA...in fact i would say that for me surfing is THE reason i paint tiki/oceanic imagery...i dream of selling enough tiki apparel that i can move my family to santa barbara and retire a longboarder that teaches art to 4 year olds...hear me TIKI? make it so!