tiki mug mold making?

Hi, I have a couple of ideas for some tiki mugs that I want to sculpt but after that, I don't know the process of making a positive/negative cast (to make ceramic duplicates). I've done two part mold casts for prosthetics/monster makeup before (its been awhile), but not a full round object before. And after you do a two/three part cast, how do you make it hollow?

anyone know any good reading material that covers ceramic mugs/how to?

anyone know of any past posts explaining how mugs are made or a basic do-it-yourself/step by step guide?

thanks,
sage

ALoooHA & E komo mai, MB!

Tons of Creating post information on TC...a bit overwhelming at times, but a great place to get lost! :D Try "ceramic mold" in [Search] tool of the upper right corner of this page. It'll quickly transport you to topics you never wanted to visit and more!!!

HMC did a pictorial steps lesson a while back: http://www.tikicentral.com/viewtopic.php?topic=18329&forum=18&hilite=ceramic%20mold

ENJOY!

Flip-flOp-fLipPp...

thanks a million! I got a cool idea for a shrunken head and a white russian mug

On 2007-02-04 10:23, morbidboy wrote:
thanks a million! I got a cool idea for a shrunken head and a white russian mug

Welcome! And be sure to post pics of your progress! We can't get enough of this stuff around here!!

I haven't decided which one that I want to start on first... Zombie, White Russian, or Hula?

Lookin good! Feel free to come at us with any questions.

-Joe

PS. That Russian looks pretty red if you ask me.

actually before I start, have a couple of questions:

it seems like the easiest way to do it is to sculpt a positive, make a silicone negative, make a silicone positive (a master), then make a two peice plaster negative (maybe more pieces, depending on undercuts) to pour ceramic slip into. Seperate. Let dry, fire in a kiln... when do you add the glaze? durring the first fire or after?

I assume you make the final plaster negative mold open at the top, to the lip of the mug, so you can pour in/out ceramic slip. Whats the easiest way to trim the excess slip from the lip on the mugs? right after pouring/while its still wet? sanding? dremel tool? what about triming mold lines (the line of excess ceramic stuff from doing a two piece mold... I'm assuming there will be one)

Whats the deal with curved bottom?

and about glazing (a subject that I know nothing about):

I want to do multipule colors on a mug, do I have to fire the mug for each color or do I add the glazing all in at one fire?

how easy/hard is it to glaze the inside of the mug?

I love solid color mugs that get a darker shade in the deep parts/cuts/cracks and highlights at the top of curves/cuts. Does glaze tend to do that, is there a special glaze that does that, or is a trick (like doing a wash/drybrushing when painting model kits)?

How long do negative molds last? how long does a master silicone positive last?... just in case I want to make more plaster negatives in the future.

those are the only questions that I can think of before I begin.

Oh I think I'm going to start with sculpting HULA. I'm thinking either glazing multiple colors or a nice banana yellow with a white or pink flower. white glaze inside... thats how I picture the final product in my head.

Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll have more questions.
-sage

[ Edited by: morbidboy 2007-02-08 10:00 ]

Yowzers.

I'll tell you this, for now:

Go to the library and get a book or two on pottery/ceramics. Just something simple with alot of pictures that lays out the basic ideas. That's where I started. It allowed me to confidently stroll into the local pottery store and buy the correct clay and glazes without feeling too stupid. As a result I managed to make a few nice slab pots and some coasters (pre-tiki) that I'm still proud of today.

So get a book, then go play with clay for a bit. Get familiar with your new medium. Get your hands dirty. Hula girl will thank you later.

-Joe

morbidboy, try using the handy **SEARCH FEATURE**. use the words sculpt mold plaster clay you'd be suprised how many times this has been discussed.

Qwhen do you add the glaze? durring the first fire or after?
A After

QI want to do multipule colors on a mug, do I have to fire the mug for each color
A NO

Qhow easy/hard is it to glaze the inside of the mug?
A. Easy, pour in pour out (do the inside first)

Qlove solid color mugs that get a darker shade in the deep parts/cuts/cracks and highlights at the top of curves/cuts. Does glaze tend to do that, is there a special glaze that does that, or is a trick
A. Some glazes will do that, some galzes wont. Is it a trick, you could simulate something with the dry-brush effect with two different colors.

more answers will lead to more questions. Have a Good DAy!

that's the happiest looking shrunken head i've ever seen.

I just want to finish moving so I can hunker down and start sculpting!

any book suggestions on this subject?

HEY HAS ANYONE EVER USED PLASTER OF PARIS FOR THERE MASTER MUG? I WANT TO MAKE SOME MUGS.WHAT DO YOU USE TO KEEP IT FROM STICKING TO THE MOLD WHEN YOU POUR IT? PS FIRST POST FROM COLD OHIO

://tikicentral.com

I don't think it would be a good idea. doesn't really bring out good detail and very brittle... Maybe a high grade dental stone... Thats what I used to use when I made positive/negitive prostentic molds for latex masks and foam makes effects... but that was years ago.

WHEW! I should be done with all the moving this month. Then I'm hoping to start sculpting on Hula. I just don't know if I want to make it look clean or wood carved? I'm thinking of glazing it yellow with a pink flower. My brother thinks pink with a yellow flower would be better. Any suggestions?