Post #284137 by morbidboy on Thu, Feb 8, 2007 9:49 AM

actually before I start, have a couple of questions:

it seems like the easiest way to do it is to sculpt a positive, make a silicone negative, make a silicone positive (a master), then make a two peice plaster negative (maybe more pieces, depending on undercuts) to pour ceramic slip into. Seperate. Let dry, fire in a kiln... when do you add the glaze? durring the first fire or after?

I assume you make the final plaster negative mold open at the top, to the lip of the mug, so you can pour in/out ceramic slip. Whats the easiest way to trim the excess slip from the lip on the mugs? right after pouring/while its still wet? sanding? dremel tool? what about triming mold lines (the line of excess ceramic stuff from doing a two piece mold... I'm assuming there will be one)

Whats the deal with curved bottom?

and about glazing (a subject that I know nothing about):

I want to do multipule colors on a mug, do I have to fire the mug for each color or do I add the glazing all in at one fire?

how easy/hard is it to glaze the inside of the mug?

I love solid color mugs that get a darker shade in the deep parts/cuts/cracks and highlights at the top of curves/cuts. Does glaze tend to do that, is there a special glaze that does that, or is a trick (like doing a wash/drybrushing when painting model kits)?

How long do negative molds last? how long does a master silicone positive last?... just in case I want to make more plaster negatives in the future.

those are the only questions that I can think of before I begin.

Oh I think I'm going to start with sculpting HULA. I'm thinking either glazing multiple colors or a nice banana yellow with a white or pink flower. white glaze inside... thats how I picture the final product in my head.

Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll have more questions.
-sage

[ Edited by: morbidboy 2007-02-08 10:00 ]