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resin tikis, what type of paint do i use?

Pages: 1 7 replies

C
cabbage posted on 03/09/2007

Hi all,

just about to start casting some tiki's, what type of paint is recomended?

will acrylics be ok, i,ll post some pics as soon as icast them

thanks

TM
Tipsy McStagger posted on 03/09/2007

On 2007-03-09 13:30, cabbage wrote:
Hi all,

just about to start casting some tiki's, what type of paint is recomended?

will acrylics be ok, i,ll post some pics as soon as icast them

thanks

..whatever you use, make sure you first clean the castings with a product called "simple green" (get it at most any hardware store). Soak them in a combo of water and a little simple green...What this does, is make sure that all silicon, mold release and gunk is removed from the casting. casting will feel slightly sandy, like very fine sand when it is completely clean. that's how you know its ready to be rinsed and dried. always use spray primer to prime your castings prior to painting.....then you can use arcylics or spray paint....if they are small with alot of colors, arcylics work fine. otherwise, i like to use spraypaint to cover large areas then go back in with a brush and acrylics...i use the acrylics from the craft store used to paint ceramics..it's easy to work with. hope this helps.

T
TiKiMaN77 posted on 03/10/2007

Animation cell paints are pretty good for painting Resin casts too. You can also use Acitone to clean off the resin once ya pull the pieces out of the mold. Dries almost instantly and then you're good to go for painting.
hope it helps. Lookin forward to seeing your stuff.

TM
Tipsy McStagger posted on 03/10/2007

On 2007-03-09 23:08, TiKiMaN77 wrote:
Animation cell paints are pretty good for painting Resin casts too. You can also use Acitone to clean off the resin once ya pull the pieces out of the mold. Dries almost instantly and then you're good to go for painting.
hope it helps. Lookin forward to seeing your stuff.

..i find that cell paints tend to dry to quickly and leave brush marks and gummy up the surface...which is probably why they were invented specifically for animation......and though acetone may work, it is an extremely deadly chemical to work with...especially the fumes, if you are standing over them while you clean the parts.......i suggested simple green cause it really won't harm you and prolonged exposure won't hurt you either...i think it's even environmentally safe as well. but importantly, it does the job.

no disrespect for your suggestions but i thought i'd better chime in.....

F
finkdaddy posted on 03/10/2007

I use Krylon brand primer first, then acrylic paints, then Krylon brand clear coat. After everything has sat for a day or so they get nice and hard.

T
TiKiMaN77 posted on 03/11/2007

No prob Tipsy. Acetone was just always around where I worked so that's what we used. nothing like a 50 gallon drum of it for everyone to use. I too prefer to use Acrylics, but ahve had to use the cell paints in the past for another company which worked well for certain jobs.

TM
Tipsy McStagger posted on 03/11/2007

On 2007-03-10 12:50, finkdaddy wrote:
I use Krylon brand primer first, then acrylic paints, then Krylon brand clear coat. After everything has sat for a day or so they get nice and hard.

I wish i had krylon.....seems most stores here have fased it out in exchange for rustoleum brand, which is what i use but it is a far inferior product conpared to krylon......this is what happens when some company makes a cheaper product and sells it for less.

C
cabbage posted on 03/13/2007

Hi all.

thanks for the replies ,casting put off for a week as attended a pinstriping course here in the uk ,

then my little girl has been ill so all attention diverted to her.

i am going to practice taking a mold from an old resin mask i have first to try out the technique will keep you posted.

thanks for the replies about the paint

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