Welcome to the Tiki Central 2.0 Beta. Read the announcement
Celebrating classic and modern Polynesian Pop

Tiki Central / Tiki Drinks and Food / New book on history of rum - excerpt on Pusser's rum

Post #134593 by thejab on Sat, Jan 8, 2005 4:21 PM

You are viewing a single post. Click here to view the post in context.
T
thejab posted on Sat, Jan 8, 2005 4:21 PM

Lately I've been reading Rum: The Epic Story of the Drink That Conquered the World by Charles A. Coulombe (Citadel Press 2004). I just read the fascinating chapter on Grog and the Navy. As you may already know, the Royal Navy started issuing rum rations starting in the 17th. Century, and in 1740 Vice Admiral Edward Vernon (aka "Old Grogram" - after the material his coat was made from) had the rum ration mixed with water, to reduce it's strength, and sugar, lime, and lemon juices to help prevent scurvy (later the mixture was called "grog").

Here's some excerpts about Pusser's rum:

Already in 1874, exclusive brokering rights for rum to the Royal Navy had been awarded to James Man, a merchant trading with the West Indies. He and his sons after him imported the liquor and sold it to the navy; naval officials in turn had it transported to the vats at the newly built naval yards in Gosport and Devonport. So pleased was the navy with the Man's family's work that the rum brokerage remained in their hands as long as the service required the drink.

In 1850, in response to recurring complaints of the ill effects of drunkeness among the men, the Admiralty decided to reduce the rum tot yet again. It was to be cut in half, and the noon ration was eliminated. There would be compensation in food and cash, and more money for those willing to forego the tot completely. Underage sailors (those under the age of twenty), who had no choice in the matter, lost their rum as a group.

But for the rum drinkers who remained, the Admiralty needed to ensure that the remaining eighth of a pint was the best possible. From this time on, the Man Company began to blend Trinidad and Demerara rums in a particular formula that pleased both naval noses and palates. Seamen, however, preferred dark to light rum; this was a bit difficult, since the same refining process that produced superior taste and bouquet turned out a pale product. A solution was found by adding caramel and/or burned sugar to the brew. The exact blend was a closely guarded secret; as a result, sailors always complained about civilian rums!

Another major reform that followed in 1851 was the regularization of the office of purser aboard ship. This functionary, who time out of mind had been responsible for provisioning the crew, was a hated individual. Familiarly called the "pusser" (through the same naval linguistic alchemy that turned the forecastle into the "foc'sle" and the boatswain into the "bosun"), he was often suspected, since he was an independent agent, of making his own money from commissions by siphoning off supplies and selling them. But in 1851, he was given a regular salary and placed under the Admiralty. Now called the paymaster, he became a regular wardroom officer; all of the abuses connected with the position swiftly disappeared. Henceforth, the rum ration would never be watered down more than rules required.

The rum ration in the Royal Navy remined until 1970, when the Admiralty and Parliament abolished the practice.

But after 1970, the rum specially made by E. D. and F. Man for the navy ceased production. As noticed earlier, it was a unique blend and its demise was mourned by rum connoisseurs the world over. At 95.5 proof, this special "Pusser's" rum was unique. Fortunately for lovers of the drink, an American ex-marine named Charles Tobias went into partnership with the Man Company and opened a distillery on Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands. Using the closely guarded naval recipe, he opened Pussers Ltd., which now bottles and distributes Pusser's Rum. For every case sold, Tobias donates $2 to the Royal Navy Sailor's Fund; in return, Pusser's now graces every main brace splicing!

I won't go into what a main brace splicing is. For that, you'll have to buy the book.

The chapter offers more interesting facts on rum and the military. For example, the Indian navy is the last navy in the world that still has a rum ration. Also, I was surprised to read that the U.S. Marines still serve rum punch at their formal "Mess Nights", which is made with "four parts dark rum, two parts lime juice, one part maple syrup, and a small amount of grenadine", a tradition that started back in 1775, which is why it's called "1775 Rum Punch" today.