Post #222614 by TikiKIrby on Thu, Mar 23, 2006 10:04 AM

i wouldn't use super glue, it doesn't seem to last very long. definitely not if the break is at a part that has to hold alot of weight. if the break doesn't fit together without gaps use zap-a-gap, if no gaps use one of the thinner glues listed below from an article i found. you can get them at any hobby or craft shop. if it is a thin part of the statue that has to hold alot of weight, i'd even recommend drilling a small hole into the face of both sides of the break and adding a wire dowel (the easiest is the aluminum wire used in sculpting with super sculpy but any wire will do (hanger,etc.)). drill one side the thickness of the wire, add the wire (1" or less in length is fine). color the tip of the wire that is sticking out of the hole (1/2" or less) with something that will rub off (lipstick works great (add your joke here)) then line the two parts up so that the color rubs off on the face of the non drilled part of the break. drill a hole on the non drilled part where the mark is then test fit the dowel you might have to drill the holes deeper or wider to get the parts to line up. when you get the dowel to work, take the dowel out, put some zap-a-gap in the holes and refit the dowel. this may seem like overkill but it works great and has saved many o statue living out here in earthquake country....

aaron

Resin kits must be assembled using Super Glues (ACC) such as Zap-a-Gap, H&D's Own, Super-Jet, Pacer's Hot Stuff, etc., or 5 Minute Epoxy. Solvent glues that are for bonding styrene (Testor's Liquid Cement, Tenax, Plastruct, etc.) will not bond resin parts together.
The most common mistake many modelers make with super glues is using too much glue. Less is best!
Do not apply glue to kit pieces directly from the bottle; instead, pour out a tiny "puddle" f glue on a scarp piece of styrene and use an applicator (toothpick, dental tool ,wire) to pick up a drop of glue from the puddle, and apply to the kit piece.
Use one tiny drop about every half inch to an inch along a long joint (such as a structure's wall, or car frame to body). Once this has set you may reinforce this joint with additional glue along the inside of the joint.
There are different thickness' of super glues, the most commonly used are the thinnest (fastest setting), and the medium (a littler slower setting). There are also thick glue for filling larger areas.
The thin is excellent to use on a good fitting joint. Hold the two pieces to be glued in position, and place a drop of thin super glue on the inside of the joint. Capillary action will draw the glue along the joint.
The medium glue is good for the joints that may not fit as well. This type of glue is often referred to as "gap filling". Place required drops along the joint edge of only one of the two pieces to be joined. Do not put glue on both pieces. Place the two pieces together, and hold for a few seconds. The joint may then be reinforced on the inside if necessary.
If you are unsatisfied with the resulting glue joint, it may be easily broken by using a debonding agent. These are available at hobby shops in the same department the glues are sold in.
We have also found that Testor's Liquid styrene cement is an excellent debonder; it will not affect the resin pieces, and effectively softens the glue. The joint may then be separated by carefully using a single edge razor blade, or exacto blade as necessary.
After you have separated the two parts, you will need to sand or scrape all traces of the first application of glue from the parts. Super glue does not adhere to itself, and if you do not remove the glue, the new joint will be weak or not set at all.
Super glues also have a short shelf life; if glue is not bonding well, it is time to discard it and buy a new bottle.