New Shag Print - Collecting Tiki

G Gromit_Fan Member Portland, OR, USA Joined: Apr 09, 2007 Posts: 65	G Gromit_Fan Posted posted on Fri, Apr 13, 2007 10:55 PM I always use OP-3 museum PLEXI-glass. It costs less, won't shatter should an accident happen (or you decide to sell the print and ship framed), and filters UV as well as (or better than) UV glass. The only downside is that you have to be more careful when cleaning/wiping it that you don't scratch it. I always use clean "starfiber" cloths with a hint of water to wipe down the plexiglass. As for framefetish, that is really cool, but sometimes the "less is more" approach to framing is the the best and if you want the work to stand out, don't add "distraction" with extra gunk in the framing. Overzealous framers used to go hog-wild framing Nagel's work with streamers and extending the geometic patterns in the matting..now, 20 years later, they just look obnoxious and dated. Bottom line: Do you want to draw attention to the art or the frame? Also, any framing that covers part of the image area, as in the posted frame-fetish example, or even the border might promote mat burn or uneven fading. IF your print fades, a noticeable fade line within the work itself is a deal-breaker for many would-be buyers 20 years down the line. I have serigraphs that are 30+ years old. Of course some of them have faded. But it is not noticeable because none of the image area is/was overmatted. A clean white mat, possibly a complimetary color, a spacer, and simple black frame, and the print displayed in a "floating mount," all acid-free museum-grade materials, is the way I frame my Shag prints. It is more likely to look timeles in years to come, and maybe the next buyer is more of an urban hipster, or general low brow collector, and not a tiki-collector. This is just me thinking ahead to maybe 20 years down the line IF you might want to sell. Of couse, you should frame the way you want to, but I guess the K-I-S-S principle has always appealed to me. :) just my $0.02 (Oh! And I think covering up the artist's numbering notation and hand signed signature is not such a good feature either.) On 2006-11-03 23:57, tikipedia wrote: That's a sweet print. Welcome to the Dark Side. I don't know if anybody else does this, but I always get archival glass when framing my collectible prints. Bright light, particularly sunlight, can fade a print. Also, sealing the back of the frame will keep out moisture and protect your print from damage. [ Edited by: Gromit_Fan 2007-04-13 23:59 ]

I always use OP-3 museum PLEXI-glass. It costs less, won't shatter should an accident happen (or you decide to sell the print and ship framed), and filters UV as well as (or better than) UV glass.

The only downside is that you have to be more careful when cleaning/wiping it that you don't scratch it. I always use clean "starfiber" cloths with a hint of water to wipe down the plexiglass.

As for framefetish, that is really cool, but sometimes the "less is more" approach to framing is the the best and if you want the work to stand out, don't add "distraction" with extra gunk in the framing.

Overzealous framers used to go hog-wild framing Nagel's work with streamers and extending the geometic patterns in the matting..now, 20 years later, they just look obnoxious and dated.

Bottom line: Do you want to draw attention to the art or the frame?

Also, any framing that covers part of the image area, as in the posted frame-fetish example, or even the border might promote mat burn or uneven fading. IF your print fades, a noticeable fade line within the work itself is a deal-breaker for many would-be buyers 20 years down the line.

I have serigraphs that are 30+ years old. Of course some of them have faded. But it is not noticeable because none of the image area is/was overmatted.

A clean white mat, possibly a complimetary color, a spacer, and simple black frame, and the print displayed in a "floating mount," all acid-free museum-grade materials, is the way I frame my Shag prints. It is more likely to look timeles in years to come, and maybe the next buyer is more of an urban hipster, or general low brow collector, and not a tiki-collector.

This is just me thinking ahead to maybe 20 years down the line IF you might want to sell. Of couse, you should frame the way you want to, but I guess the K-I-S-S principle has always appealed to me. :)

just my $0.02

(Oh! And I think covering up the artist's numbering notation and hand signed signature is not such a good feature either.)

On 2006-11-03 23:57, tikipedia wrote:
That's a sweet print. Welcome to the Dark Side.

I don't know if anybody else does this, but I always get archival glass when framing my collectible prints. Bright light, particularly sunlight, can fade a print. Also, sealing the back of the frame will keep out moisture and protect your print from damage.

[ Edited by: Gromit_Fan 2007-04-13 23:59 ]

Post #299156 by Gromit_Fan on Fri, Apr 13, 2007 10:55 PM