Post #329327 by ikitnrev on Fri, Aug 31, 2007 11:53 AM

My first thought upon reading the Kirk column was annoyance. A mid-sixties article on Polynesian restaurants that starts with the phrase 'A pestilent rash'? How dare he!

As I read on though, I saw more things I liked. There is nothing wrong with promoting local flavors and tradition at all, as he is correct there. But does one want every restaurant in one's town to feature local flavors? There is a bit of food xenophobia in the article. Notice that Kirk's tone is more of 'this isn't our native food - let's stick to what we know' versus 'Let's make more efforts to attract Polynesians and other ethnic groups, so we can then taste their wonderful food cooked in their authentic styles, without traveling halfway around the world.'

A lot has changed in 42 years. Back then, there really were a lot more locally owned restaurants, and very few of the big-name food franchises that one sees today. In that sense, perhaps we have de-eveolved.

Few of us on Tiki Central ate as an adult in an authentic Polynesian restaurant in the mid-60's era, so who knows, perhaps Kirk was right. What if the food in most tiki-era Polynesian restaurants really did not taste good? Trader Vics has survived to today, partly because of their high standards for quality. But if the majority of the restaurants served bad food, that would in the long run keep the customers away, and if that effect is multiplied all over the country, that could be a reason for the downfall of tiki.

I am intrigued that Kirk admits that the drinks served are fantastic, and he does adore the almond-eyed waitresses. I would die today to have a place like that here in DC, evn if the food was lousy. But evidently that was not enough for Kirk in the mid sixties. I do get the feeling that if Kirk were alive today, he might be complaining about the commercialization of tiki culture, but still admiring those few places and people who were getting it right.

A final note. Russel Kirk was not some local Oklahoman newspaper editor, but a well-known syndicated columnist living in upstate Michigan, known by some as the 'father of the conservative movement' and best known for his 1953 book 'The Conservative Mind.' From what I read about him, he was quite an interesting person.

Thanks for finding that article Pappy.