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Celebrating classic and modern Polynesian Pop

Tiki Central / Locating Tiki / Trader Vic's, Dallas, TX (restaurant)

Post #334207 by Kenike on Sat, Sep 22, 2007 9:59 AM

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In response to the article in the August issue of D Magazine, I wrote a letter to the editor. To my surprise, it's printed in the October issue in it's entirety:

Totally Wrong About Trader Vic's
Also in August, Teresa Gubbins' less-than-enthused review of the renovated Trader Vic's ("Tepid Tiki") prompted several e-mails questioning her food judgement, including this one.

**Trader Vic’s has had several glowing reviews since they opened in March, so I was quite surprised that Ms. Gubbins’ review was lukewarm at best. I’ve been to the restaurant many times and have experienced most of the menu myself. Not once have I left disappointed. Although there are plenty of restaurants that serve excellent food in Dallas, this is not the main reason I frequent Trader Vic’s and I believe this is where Ms. Gubbins really missed the point.

First, visiting Trader Vic’s is experiencing a unique slice of American pop culture the way it was 40+ years ago. As Ms. Gubbins pointed out, the original restaurant has been painstaking restored to its former glory. This, in addition to the attentive staff, helps to create a fun tropical atmosphere where the exotic rum concoctions help to satisfy an insatiable longing for an escape from the world outside.

Ms. Gubbins’ assessment that Trader Vic’s drinks “aren’t that good” was surprising, especially since the Scorpion Bowl was voted one of the 8 best cocktails in Dallas in the same issue as her review ("The Best Of Big D"). You won’t find Kool-Aid and Bacardi Mai Tai’s here, just the good stuff. The bar menu has been a staple for decades and is what Trader Vic’s is probably best known for. “Hokey names” for drinks served in “schlocky glasses” is part of the appeal, and only adds to the overall fun and exotic atmosphere. Nothing gives me more pleasure than sipping a Zombie while the 40-year old tiki carvings glare in approval.

Her statement that the original clientele from years ago have “mobbed the bar and besieged the dining room” makes it sound like a retiree booze cruise. Sure, Trader Vic’s is frequented by those who remember the days when it was more socially acceptable to drink a Suffering Bastard and not feel silly, but they are certainly outnumbered by the younger and curious who have only heard and read the stories until now. I should know because I’m one of them. **