Jungalero Lounge featured in IMBIBE magazine (NEW PHOTO) - Home Tiki Bars

H Howland Tiki Socialite Upstate, SC Joined: Jan 30, 2006 Posts: 751	H Howland Posted posted on Tue, May 12, 2009 7:27 AM On 2009-05-02 05:12, Mr. Pupu Pants wrote: Hello Mr. H, that's a mighty beautiful bar you got there. Mighty beautiful :). Would you be willing to field a few questions about the simulated bamboo bar edge you built? Could you share some details about how it was created? It's just amazing how cool it looks. It appears to be two layers of wood (upper and lower) that were sandwiched for thickness. Is that correct? What did you do to introduce the curve on it? (wood?...curve, curve? wood) Was it simply cut out of a large piece of wood as a curve or did you bend it somehow? What was the painting/finishing process? Did you use a glaze as well? Thanks very much for any tips you can pass along. You do great work. Hey Mr. PPP, sorry for the delayed reply but here's some answers for you. It's actually 3 layers of wood that wrap the edge of the bar -top and bottom. The bar top is 1.5" thick so for the middle piece I used a 2x12 (which is really only 1.5"thick). The top and bottom layers are only 3/4 " thick. I laid the 2x12 across the top of the bar edge and transferred the curve of the bar top to the bottom of the 2x12 with a pencil then with a compass set to 2", I drew another line following the line transferred from the bar top to give me a 2" wide x 1.5" thick curved area to cut out. Basically repeated the process with the 3/4" wood but using the 2x1.5 cutout and cut the 3/4" pieces 3" wide to provide a 1" overlap on the top and bottom of the bar edge. Hope this makes sense, starting to sound jumbly to me. Also the 2x12 didn't cover the entire length of the bar so there is actually a joint in the faux bamboo edging about 3/4 down the length of the bar. I rounded the edgeing over with a belt sander to give it the rounded shape. The only bending I did was the banding above and below the real bamboo on the face/base of the bar. Those are just a 2x6 (top) and a 2x8 (at floor) that I cut saw kerfs into about 3/4 through the boards and about an inch apart to make them flexible. The faux paint job --hmmm. I don't remember exactly how I did it but I didn't use a glaze. In one of the pics of the bar during construction you can see that I painted it a pale yellow. I either went over that with a wood stain or some thinned down brown paint to give it that antiqued amber color. For the nodes, I just painted 2 thin lines about an eighth of an inch apart with burnt umber acrylic paint and took my thumb and smudged the lines outward away from each other to give it the torched node look. I then hit the whole thing with several layers of marine grade polyurethane. Hope this helps! Here's a cross section photo of the end of the bar where the top flips over for back bar access. The green is the 2x12 and the red is the 3/4" material: While I'm here, a photographer friend from Knoxville, TN, Scott Kirkham, was down a few weeks ago and took some great shots:

On 2009-05-02 05:12, Mr. Pupu Pants wrote:
Hello Mr. H, that's a mighty beautiful bar you got there. Mighty beautiful :).
Would you be willing to field a few questions about the simulated bamboo bar edge you built? Could you share some details about how it was created? It's just amazing how cool it looks.

It appears to be two layers of wood (upper and lower) that were sandwiched for thickness. Is that correct?

What did you do to introduce the curve on it? (wood?...curve, curve? wood)
Was it simply cut out of a large piece of wood as a curve or did you bend it somehow?

What was the painting/finishing process? Did you use a glaze as well?

Thanks very much for any tips you can pass along.
You do great work.

Hey Mr. PPP, sorry for the delayed reply but here's some answers for you. It's actually 3 layers of wood that wrap the edge of the bar -top and bottom. The bar top is 1.5" thick so for the middle piece I used a 2x12 (which is really only 1.5"thick). The top and bottom layers are only 3/4 " thick. I laid the 2x12 across the top of the bar edge and transferred the curve of the bar top to the bottom of the 2x12 with a pencil then with a compass set to 2", I drew another line following the line transferred from the bar top to give me a 2" wide x 1.5" thick curved area to cut out. Basically repeated the process with the 3/4" wood but using the 2x1.5 cutout and cut the 3/4" pieces 3" wide to provide a 1" overlap on the top and bottom of the bar edge. Hope this makes sense, starting to sound jumbly to me. Also the 2x12 didn't cover the entire length of the bar so there is actually a joint in the faux bamboo edging about 3/4 down the length of the bar. I rounded the edgeing over with a belt sander to give it the rounded shape. The only bending I did was the banding above and below the real bamboo on the face/base of the bar. Those are just a 2x6 (top) and a 2x8 (at floor) that I cut saw kerfs into about 3/4 through the boards and about an inch apart to make them flexible.

The faux paint job --hmmm. I don't remember exactly how I did it but I didn't use a glaze. In one of the pics of the bar during construction you can see that I painted it a pale yellow. I either went over that with a wood stain or some thinned down brown paint to give it that antiqued amber color. For the nodes, I just painted 2 thin lines about an eighth of an inch apart with burnt umber acrylic paint and took my thumb and smudged the lines outward away from each other to give it the torched node look. I then hit the whole thing with several layers of marine grade polyurethane. Hope this helps! Here's a cross section photo of the end of the bar where the top flips over for back bar access. The green is the 2x12 and the red is the 3/4" material:

While I'm here, a photographer friend from Knoxville, TN, Scott Kirkham, was down a few weeks ago and took some great shots:

Post #453318 by Howland on Tue, May 12, 2009 7:27 AM