Post #524030 by midnite on Thu, Apr 15, 2010 12:02 AM

JAPAN
Hakone - Kyoto - Tokyo

Part One: Big in Japan

The naughts are over, a new travel decade awaits. After nearly ten years touring most of Europe's capitals it's time to explore the East. Team midnite is off to the "Land of the Rising Sun". We'll visit the Hakone region, historic Kyoto, and modern Tokyo. Japan will be our initial venture into Asia, a first time visit to a new continent. Why go there? I'm big in Japan.

What, you were expecting some allusions to a particular song from The Vapors? Nah, I like my 80's pop, but I am more of a Tom Waits fan. I really think so, think so.

HAKONE
The Fuji-Hakone-Izu region of Japan is a large national park area popular with the Japanese for its natural beauty and hot springs. We stayed at the historic, if a bit quirky, Fujiya Hotel in Miyanoshita. It's the sort of place that could easily find itself in a Stephen King novel. It is actually more akin to an elderly aunt way past her prime yet with some of her charm still intact. It was a smile.

What was not a smile was the "typhoon" that raged during our first night in Hakone. Our purpose in visiting the region was to take in the natural wonders of the hot springs, the nearby Lake Ashinoko, and the breathtaking views of Mt Fuji. However, the worst rain I had seen in years put a real kibosh on those plans as much of the area was temporarily shut down due to very high winds. The weather finally cleared a bit and we visited the Owakudani hot springs area. They are not kidding about the sulphur vapor danger. That stuff will kill you, if the black eggs don't get you first. Even with the inclement weather Hakone was a nice entree to Japan. We got our feet wet, so to speak. Also, the fair Michelle tried out her chopstick skills. She did much better after learning one holds both sticks in a single hand. We left Hakone after two days, riding the bullet train (Shinkansen) to Kyoto. Hey, look there, it's Mt Fuji!

KYOTO
As we researched Japan tourism one constant recommendation we encountered was to visit Kyoto. The former longtime capital of Japan is the historic center of the nation. It's all there: Buddhist, Shinto, Zen, Geisha! While the cityscape is not compelling, the surrounding hills with their temples and shrines are amazing. We spent two full days exploring many of the best known sites. A few were particularly captivating: Myoshinji Temple Complex was a quiet and relaxing oasis set amongst the hectic metropolis. Ryoanji Temple contains the famous stone garden, a thought provoking arrangement of fifteen rocks next to the temple's Zorokuan Tea room. One is supposed to see only fourteen rocks from any perspective, but Zen masters know a trick to view all fifteen at once. So, I got that going for me.

The too popular Golden Temple is a waste of time for anything but a few pretty snappies. It is beautiful, but Michelle noted the actual gold facade is so contrary to what we perceived as the Japanese aesthetic. It's all Liberace glam in a sea of restrained and tempered sensibilities. A pair of others were much more inspiring. The Silver Temple (not silver at all) was a gem with the nicest gardens, the Eikan-do Zenrin-Ji Temple was my favorite. The guidebooks somewhat dismiss Eikan-do, but it is incredible. Between these two runs the "Philosopher's Walk". One strolls along a canal under countless cherry trees, perhaps thinking of how incredible Kyoto is and why one would ever leave it.

Japan can be more beautiful than any country I have encountered. This was especially true during Cherry Blossom season. We did our best to pick the optimum week; the cherry blossoms were in full bloom during our visit and prettiest in Kyoto. When the wind picked up it "snowed" petals, something the large koi fish in the ubiquitous ponds seem to enjoy as a treat. Kyoto is an amazing city; we barely scratched the surface of this charming place. That means another visit someday to see the temples we missed and to again wander its many small lanes and alleys full of restaurants, bars, and strolling Geiko. Sigh, that's a burden I will have to endure. Next up was a ride on the super fast Nozomi Shinkansen to Tokyo and the "future today" lifestyle of that modern megalopolis.

TOKYO
Perhaps some back story is in order. Much like Prague, Japan was a place in which I have had a keen interest. Two issues were prominent in my thoughts about this trip. Firstly, I anticipated I would feel connected to, and truly like, the Japanese people. This was mainly due to my hobbies/interests and how they often mirror those of many Japanese. Secondly, my Father fought a war against this country. It may seem strange to you but it was something I contemplated before the trip. Nothing more than that, just a realization which was unique to this place, these people. That said, my Dad visited Japan many times on business and always seemed to enjoy the country. I certainly was growing fond of the place.

Tokyo, yes, where to begin? I am not sure, but wherever it is...keep moving! The Gods favor those in motion, especially in Tokyo where the alternative is to be overcome by the flood of people coming from all points, going to....well, everywhere. I was beginning to understand the Japanese focus on the singular, the precise, the calm. I could see why they strive for that one perfect moment or object. Such sure-minded focus on the small and the serene has to be an antidote to the "Blade Runner" cityscape of Tokyo. There were moments I thought I had left 2010 and somehow ended up in 2110. As Hakone was natural beauty and Kyoto cultured history, Tokyo was in your face modernity fueled by caffeine and noodles, illuminated by more neon and bright lights than a hundred Times Squares. One can cross a single Shibuya street with literally thousands of locals. Pull up your socks, tie the shoes a bit tighter and get going. This is Tokyo, and life here? It goes to "eleven".

Our goal for Tokyo was to forego the conventional tourist destinations and simply experience Tokyo as much as possible like a native. Well, a "native" who can read three Kanji symbols and understand about six Japanese phrases. What the heck, just get out there and ride the wave. That was the idea, it worked pretty well. We actually shopped quite a bit. In my travels I rarely pick up souvenirs, I haven't the room if I purchased but one item per trip. However, Japan is home to Sun Surf shirts and they are rather difficult to obtain in the States. They are, however, big in Japan. I came back with a suitcase full of amazing reproduction 1940's-50's Hawaiian shirts. We also shopped, make that browsed, at Mitsukoshi, the oldest and most posh of the huge Tokyo department stores. Arriving before opening time we were able to take in a very Japanese shopping experience. The many employees stand at attention at their respective stations and "welcome" the first of the day's clients. It is quite a treat.

What else would a Tokyo local do? Maybe grab some Takoyaki (octopus dumpling) and watch the Yomiuri Giants play baseball at Tokyo Dome. Baseball in Japan is almost identical to the States. Cheering for Japanese baseball teams is a whole other matter. The fans do not stop chanting while their team is at bat. The seats are really small, too. On our last day we took a spell from the Tokyo hustle and headed a bit North to the Omiya section of Tokyo and visited the bonsai tree nurseries and museum. I've liked Bonsai since I was a child (yes, really) and to see the trees in their homeland was special. They're wee little things, just like Michelle.

Tokyo was at times infuriatingly complex and aggravating. The metro is an abject exercise in Darwinian survival. Being head and shoulders taller and many pounds larger than virtually all Japanese did help me. Still, getting around is a serious test of directional skills. The city's pace is frantic. Tokyo's sights, sounds, and overall cacophany of life race in fifth gear all around you.

Notwithstanding that sentiment my time spent in Japan lent itself to one unique conclusion. In my travels I always get to a point where I count the days remaining to departure. Sure, I may love the place but I am always ready to go home. I started counting the days left during our stay in Tokyo, too. However, it was not to await my return home. No, I counted the days until I had to go home. I did not wish to leave. I liked the people, their approach to life. I dug the sights, the sheer beauty of Japan. It is simply my favorite country I have visited. At times it was as exotic a place I have been, but I felt quite comfortable, at home. Take away the language barrier and I moved, acted, lived like I was not in a foreign land but in my own.

I thought I might like Japan, its people, and places. I ended up falling in love.

Nippon wa saiko desu!
midnite

PS What of tiki, club sandwiches, and cocktails? The "life midnite"? Ah, yes...that awaits in Part Two.