Trader Scott's - Home Tiki Bars

P phinz Tiki Socialite Southeast of Disorder Joined: Dec 30, 2007 Posts: 199	P phinz Posted posted on Fri, Jun 10, 2011 10:44 PM On 2011-06-09 07:20, newB24 wrote: Just curious...how did TIKI65 attach the bamboo to the bar/walls and what about the bamboo slats trim pieces? All done with a small finishing nail? EDIT: I am not worthy to look at these photos....WOW We used an air gun with small brad nails to do the split bamboo veneer on the bar face and lower half of the walls, as well as the slat pieces and the wood making up the crate that the glasses hang from. They virtually disappear. You have to be careful to nail into the knuckles of the bamboo, as well as dial down your pressure a bit so they don't split it. The big bamboo pieces on the bar face were attached with countersunk cabinet screws. They're special Phillips head screws. The screw heads are almost the same diameter as the screw, so you don't need to put big countersink holes into the bamboo. These are also the screws used to assemble the split bamboo post in the corner of the bar that hides both the electrical wiring and support post holding up the upper level of the house. The big pieces of bamboo on the ceiling are attached to the drywall with the same Phillips head screws, countersunk, into self-tapping drywall anchors. We went through several contractor-sized boxes of 2" and 3" screws during the build. The lauhala was temporarily attached with staples as I stretched/coerced/struggled with it, and then I used copper flashing nails, evenly spaced throughout, to permanently attach it, pulling the staples out as I went. The thatched roof over the bar is literally lag bolted to the floor joists of the floor above. I can literally do chin ups from it, and it had the added effect of reducing some of the squeaking in the floor above. The walls, as you can see in the early build pics, are paneling, so we had a great base to attach to, without having to worry about making sure we were in studs. The bar top is strand bamboo flooring in a tiger stripe pattern, and the bullnose was custom routed and assembled out of rock maple with tapered rock maple plugs covering the mounting screws. These were planed down and sanded before we applied about 10 layers of clear varnish to it. The lights under the edge of the bar and sunk into a routed channel, with the underside of the bullnose covering the leading edge of the lights so you cannot see them when looking from the front. This also helps control bleed of the light so it only shines down and toward the bar. I need to do a video tour of the bar with the lights up to show all the cool features, like the lights inside the underbar cabinets, the overhead boxes for bartender storage, the dishwasher, sink and 18-case slide top beer cooler, as well as other assorted neat stuff.

On 2011-06-09 07:20, newB24 wrote:
Just curious...how did TIKI65 attach the bamboo to the bar/walls and what about the bamboo slats trim pieces?

All done with a small finishing nail?

EDIT: I am not worthy to look at these photos....WOW

We used an air gun with small brad nails to do the split bamboo veneer on the bar face and lower half of the walls, as well as the slat pieces and the wood making up the crate that the glasses hang from. They virtually disappear. You have to be careful to nail into the knuckles of the bamboo, as well as dial down your pressure a bit so they don't split it.

The big bamboo pieces on the bar face were attached with countersunk cabinet screws. They're special Phillips head screws. The screw heads are almost the same diameter as the screw, so you don't need to put big countersink holes into the bamboo. These are also the screws used to assemble the split bamboo post in the corner of the bar that hides both the electrical wiring and support post holding up the upper level of the house.

The big pieces of bamboo on the ceiling are attached to the drywall with the same Phillips head screws, countersunk, into self-tapping drywall anchors. We went through several contractor-sized boxes of 2" and 3" screws during the build.

The lauhala was temporarily attached with staples as I stretched/coerced/struggled with it, and then I used copper flashing nails, evenly spaced throughout, to permanently attach it, pulling the staples out as I went.

The thatched roof over the bar is literally lag bolted to the floor joists of the floor above. I can literally do chin ups from it, and it had the added effect of reducing some of the squeaking in the floor above.

The walls, as you can see in the early build pics, are paneling, so we had a great base to attach to, without having to worry about making sure we were in studs.

The bar top is strand bamboo flooring in a tiger stripe pattern, and the bullnose was custom routed and assembled out of rock maple with tapered rock maple plugs covering the mounting screws. These were planed down and sanded before we applied about 10 layers of clear varnish to it. The lights under the edge of the bar and sunk into a routed channel, with the underside of the bullnose covering the leading edge of the lights so you cannot see them when looking from the front. This also helps control bleed of the light so it only shines down and toward the bar.

I need to do a video tour of the bar with the lights up to show all the cool features, like the lights inside the underbar cabinets, the overhead boxes for bartender storage, the dishwasher, sink and 18-case slide top beer cooler, as well as other assorted neat stuff.

Post #593216 by phinz on Fri, Jun 10, 2011 10:44 PM