Post #624852 by danlovestikis on Mon, Feb 13, 2012 8:00 AM

Hi Tiki Tonie, I never got the aluminum to work. It would bow out in the center. Maybe if you stack bricks or bags of clay to hold in the sides?

I was taught by a mold master you should paint on the mold soap on the sculpt let it sit for awhile and then wipe it off. Repeat this three times and you should be good to go. Then after the first mold piece is hot you can take off the clay. To pour the second piece you now paint all of that plaster surface and the sculpt the same three times. This is the procedure for every piece you make with the plaster.

I use Duncan like MDM does. I also use Mayco. I've been told they don't mix but I've not had any problem. To get the glaze to highlight the detail I use IN Duncan glazes. Be sure to make glaze tests before using any glaze on a finished piece that way you'll have a record and you'll see that their test may look different from your own. We all do it differently. I have a whold wall of tests like Babalu.

Each strip has three line. Top, one coat, middle two coats, bottom three coats. On the bottom I write my code number for the glaze. I wish I'd just written the number of the glaze from the jar. There is a under glaze pencil you can buy that will fire onto the bisque. So I make a ton of these ahead and then use them as I buy glaze.

This photo shows all underglazes that have just fired. So I have also painted a couple of stips from top to bottom of clear glaze tp see how that will change the colors.

Everyone will want to watch you make this mold. I keep the mold soap in my way so that I don't forget it. One miss and it's all over.

Go slow and check your notes. Good luck, Wendy

[ Edited by: danlovestikis 2012-02-13 08:24 ]