Help tiki carving has broken feet! - Tiki Carving

T TheBigT Tiki Socialite Fabulous Houston Joined: Feb 27, 2006 Posts: 1798	T TheBigT Posted posted on Mon, Oct 6, 2014 7:33 AM On 2014-10-06 01:11, Fastbackadam wrote: Watango, pjc5150, thanks for the kind words and replies, funny how you two and 4wd have all big a huge inspiration on my work, and tikiskip also thank you for the idea, never thought about the rope border, or using a better log for a base with a recess.. My latest thought was stand him up and use like 2 part clear epoxy, or better yet a 2 part resin and fill the bottom "feet" with it. When it dries it will be clear and glossy, just as the rest of the tiki will be after I clear it, actually got the idea from watangos moai. The resin I honk will make it stronger then regular wood anyway.. As far as the hankypoo goes I did just stain it with espresso so it is brown like poo. Hahaha! I'll keep ya posted and let ya know what happens.. Fastbackadam Hey Adam, nice work! You might also try Minwax wood hardener in the ankles once you finish the gluing, dowels, etc. I used some on the palm tiki I did. Warning, it's expensive, so it might not be practical. On 2014-09-20 09:16, 4WDtiki wrote: There's a learning curve with carving, and with carving palm, and you're in it! I don't see a way to save this, sorry. Even if the wood was a choice solid piece, it would break there, you can't do a cut like that with palm. But the log is a junk piece to start, look at all the cracking! It's too wet, and too young. Gotta be more selective in choosing palm. On 2014-09-20 10:00, AlohaStation wrote: Don't do anything till it breaks on its own. I suggest a dowel or two to hold the 2 halves together before it breaks. A common mistake when carving wet palm is allowing the wood to dry too quickly from carving deep. It still happens to me. Lot's of great advice on palm here. So, 4wd, Aloha, do you guys say don't carve palm when it's wet or carve it slowly and allow it to dry out a little at a time?

On 2014-10-06 01:11, Fastbackadam wrote:
Watango, pjc5150, thanks for the kind words and replies, funny how you two and 4wd have all big a huge inspiration on my work, and tikiskip also thank you for the idea, never thought about the rope border, or using a better log for a base with a recess.. My latest thought was stand him up and use like 2 part clear epoxy, or better yet a 2 part resin and fill the bottom "feet" with it. When it dries it will be clear and glossy, just as the rest of the tiki will be after I clear it, actually got the idea from watangos moai. The resin I honk will make it stronger then regular wood anyway.. As far as the hankypoo goes I did just stain it with espresso so it is brown like poo. Hahaha! I'll keep ya posted and let ya know what happens..
Fastbackadam

Hey Adam, nice work! You might also try Minwax wood hardener in the ankles once you finish the gluing, dowels, etc. I used some on the palm tiki I did. Warning, it's expensive, so it might not be practical.

On 2014-09-20 09:16, 4WDtiki wrote:
There's a learning curve with carving, and with carving palm, and you're in it!

I don't see a way to save this, sorry. Even if the wood was a choice solid piece, it would break there, you can't do a cut like that with palm.
But the log is a junk piece to start, look at all the cracking! It's too wet, and too young.
Gotta be more selective in choosing palm.

On 2014-09-20 10:00, AlohaStation wrote:
Don't do anything till it breaks on its own. I suggest a dowel or two to hold the 2 halves together before it breaks. A common mistake when carving wet palm is allowing the wood to dry too quickly from carving deep. It still happens to me.

Lot's of great advice on palm here. So, 4wd, Aloha, do you guys say don't carve palm when it's wet or carve it slowly and allow it to dry out a little at a time?

Post #729117 by TheBigT on Mon, Oct 6, 2014 7:33 AM