Tiki mugs by hmc

Within the next few weeks, I will be trying my hand at making custom designed mugs.

I have bought the materials to make the master and the mold, and by posting a pic of this extreme early stage, will prompt me to keep progress pics in this thread.

I will be doing a 2 step mold making process.

1. Create a mold to make a silicon master from the original clay master
2. Create a plaster mold using the silicon master

So, here's the not very exciting photo of the 3 items - plaster, silicon and clay. Woo Hoo!

I aim to spend much of this weekend making the clay master...

This is interesting already. Post lots of pics of the process.

If you show us the way, I bet you next year, at this time there will be a dozen new mugs from TC members floating around.

YES, by all means, PLEASE post lots of pictures as you do this. I'm very interested in trying this but have no idea of the process.

BIG Thanks to you for starting this thread!

At last a step by step guide to making your own tiki mugs,hurrah

Holy dooly! You little ripper! Tiki mugs from The Lucky Country! Good onya, you'll be a dinkum cobber if want to flick it on when you're done (if it's not big bikkies). I'll use the thingo for my turps and get stonkered!

Sorry to sound the whacker but I'm working on my bushie slang. Hooroo!

I'll be watching this baby.

Thanks for sharing with the rest of the class.

eagerly awaiting more info and pics. There is gonna be a bunch of us watching .

Mahalo for taking the time and starting this thread

I am going to be one of those bunches watching. This sounds like a lot of fun!
JP

Me Too, Can't wait!

I'm quite interested.

Yaaay custom mugs! The more the merrier. I'm interested to see how your silicone master works out.
-Joe

On 2006-02-08 09:34, hodadhank wrote:
Holy dooly! You little ripper! Tiki mugs from The Lucky Country! Good onya, you'll be a dinkum cobber if want to flick it on when you're done (if it's not big bikkies). I'll use the thingo for my turps and get stonkered!

Sorry to sound the whacker but I'm working on my bushie slang. Hooroo!

Oh my goodness... PLEASE, PLEASE give up!!! Did you give one of those online translators a go? :lol: I seriously haven't heard anyone talk like that before!

WOW! I knew this process would be helpful to some, but your enthusiastic replies (and overwhelming number of views on this topic) has made me feel as though I'd better produce something good!

I have never done this before so it's not an actual "how to" from a professional. But given that there is nothing out there on the subject, I guess it's a case of "something is better than nothing".

I have done quite a bit of research on the subject, including gaining an insight into Rum Demon's process, attending workshops on molding and casting and getting the step by step lowdown over the phone from a friend who used to be a potter / ceramicist.

I really hope you get "something" out of this process - if anything, entertainment!

OK - now to get the hands dirty and make a clay master from the sketches.

Tip: Make your master approx 10% bigger than the finished product due to shrinkage of the ceramic slip. As the ceramic slip dries, it shrinks. I have been told to make it about 10% bigger. Please consult your doc... ummm, supplier for the recommended percentage. I assume products will differ.

Perfect timing! I 'm firing my first prototypes tonight> I can't wait to see them ! It's like being pregnant waiting for the baby to pop out. Mine are made from straight up clay. I'm wondering how much difficulty it's going to be to make molds from them ? Got any trouble shooting advice? Anyone? Anyone?

On 2006-02-09 23:24, hmc wrote:
PLEASE, PLEASE give up!!! Did you give one of those online translators a go?

Good luck w/your first firing!

Clay master complete!

Friday night: build the shape...

Saturday: add features...

Sunday: smooth out features and refine...

TIP: Although you need to make your master approx 10% bigger than the final, I suggest adding extra to the height when using clay as it kinda compacts and shrinks as you work with it. This is true for the 1st and 2nd day. By the 3rd it has dried enough not to do this.

Next stage, silicon mold creation.

hmc
Helen McLean

[ Edited by: hmc 2006-02-11 22:28 ]

That is going to be one good looking mug.

Wow Helen - thanks for the play - by - play! (Not to mention that the design is very cool!).

I always wondered how these things were made - I'm awaiting the next installment!

I can't wait for more info!!

Let us know what type of silicone you use to make the master and how the process works. That's the part I can't figure out.

I've got some tips on making the original I'll post when I get the photos on Monday.

The only thing holding me up at the moment is trying to access electric scales! Darn it! The silicon parts A & B need to be measured by weight and kitchen scales just don't cut it.

Other than that, I've been getting my thoughts together on how to create the silicon mold the "economical" way which is by making a 1 part mold as opposed to a 2 part mold (which the plaster needs to be). Once I found out that the silicon is flexible enough to pull away from the clay master, I got it figured. (Imagine it's like pulling a sock off your foot).

So anyway, back to asking around for electric scales, which will no doubt cost me some time.

I guess I should add another tip while I'm here hey? OK...

TIP: Create your clay master as a solid, not hollow like a finished mug. If it is hollow, you will need to block the opening in order to create your mold. Also, you don't need to fire your clay master when making a silicon mold. Just let the baby dry. Mine has turned from a poo yellow colour (otherwise known as clay colour) to a white-ish colour.

hmc
Helen McLean

[ Edited by: hmc 2006-02-13 21:43 ]

keep up the posts, this is looking great

thanks

Absolutely. Love the step-by-step. Cool look'in mug ya got going there.

On 2006-02-13 21:42, hmc wrote:
The only thing holding me up at the moment is trying to access electric scales!

Try specialty kitchen supply stores like Bed, Bath & Beyond. Also firearms reloading/gun shops carry very precise gram scales. If you're just looking to "borrow" one for a minute, you might be able to use a scale in the produce section of the grocery store. Mine has a couple electronic scales out for the public to use. Hobby and craft stores may have the same.

Good luck! I LOVE this post!!

Lookin' cool, that mug is gonna rock!

Is there a reason the clay master is made from clay rather than modelling clay like plasticine?

On 2006-02-15 10:26, atomictonytiki wrote:
Is there a reason the clay master is made from clay rather than modelling clay like plasticine?

This clay is modelling clay, but it isn't plasticine.

Plasticine wasn't an option when I learned how to make masters, it was either plaster or modelling clay.

I'm going to make an assumption here and say that, maybe because plasticine doesn't dry up solid?

Is the clay original sculpt going to be destoyed in the making of the silicon master? i think i should just wait to see how this process unfolds.

On 2006-02-15 13:35, atomictonytiki wrote:
Is the clay original sculpt going to be destoyed in the making of the silicon master? i think i should just wait to see how this process unfolds.

No it won't be destroyed. It will however crack in time, therefore I want to make a master that will last longer. Hence creating a silicon master.

I could go onto make a plaster mold from this clay master but I choose not to, as I want to be able to make these mugs for quite some time.

hmc

I want to be able to make these mugs for quite some time.

Right On !!!!

[ Edited by: teaKEY 2006-02-15 15:22 ]

Here is a little tip for creating the "Master"

Start with a cillinder...The photos tell the story...

That is awesome! Looks great, thanks for sharing.

Maui, hmc, these mugs look great. I can't wait to see them all glazed and fired. It's nice to have a community of mugmakers to draw inspiration from. I've always been jealous of all the carvers and wondered why there weren't more custom mug folk. Keep up the good work.

-Joe

OK - I just poured the silicon in to the mold - now to wait 24 hours... BUT, I have a very bad feeling about this! Fingers crossed for me please!

Rum Demon - I'm happy to give mugs a go (and join the mug union!) - I agree about the carving and in a sense I wish I had wood to carve :lol:

Rum Demon -Here is a photo of the final mug. I admit that I didn't do anything but the design. I am very interested in doing every step of the process.

hmc - keep sending us the info! Do you have a Kiln? Can we see photos of the silicon mold, and how you made it??

A quick, off the subject. Mauitiki your mug really holds its own next to those Shag and Munktiki mugs that I wouldn't mine having. If I didn't know better it looks like your mug intimidates the other alittle.

Nice work, Maui! Glaze is KEY. It's so hard to get a good, subtle glaze. You can have the best sculp in the world, but if the glaze is bad, the piece suffers greatly. It's one area that only time and experience can help to improve. I'm learning the slow and difficult way what works and what doesn't, but no matter what happens, it's always fun.

-Joe

I have created the silicon mold & master.

Silicon used in this project is Polytek (a US brand) http://www.polytek.com TINSIL 70-30. It comes in 2 parts as mentioned before.

I measured how much silicon would be needed by displacing water in a container with the master placed inside. I kept a plastic bag around the clay master to protect it from getting wet.

The test showed I would need 650ml. The test was wrong! I needed the whole litre that I had bought. Which not only meant that I needed to mix more in between the pour, but I had to buy more for the actual master.

Getting ready to measure using electronic scales (borrowed!)

24 hours pass and the clay master is ready to pull out of the silicon mold. My guy won’t budge :D I bring him embedded in the silicon back to the place where I bought the products. I stock up on another litre and get some advice on how to remove him. “He should come out real easy, but it seems there’s suction keeping him wedged in there at the base. Try soapy water, if that fails, try making a slit at the base to let the air in. He should just slip out”. Suffice to say, all attempts failed and my guy had to be destroyed. So much for my optimistic outlook (sorry atomictonytiki) :(

Straight out of the pipe, a solid silicon mass.

There he is! Stuck inside :lol:

Note: there are no photos of the destroyed clay master. I understand that it would be quite distressing to some TCers :(

I then add Vaseline (petroleum jelly) to the inside of the silicon mold so that the next silicon pour doesn’t bind to the edges. This time I mix 500ml of silicon and it is an exact measure, phew! 24 hours pass and my silicon guy needs to be removed.

What it looks like inside the silicon mold.

Silicon inside silicon...

My guy Mark II - the silicon master!

He's a flexible boy, you could almost play football with him...

And now I am ready to make a plaster mold.

I am one day behind my schedule (I am being extremely stringent in my plans here) but I think I will have mugs ready to fire by end of week.

MauiTiki: No I don’t have a kiln. I will be going some place where they offer a kiln firing service.

Stay tuned folks.

Plaster mold creation.

First of all, to make a 4 wall box:

I made mine out of left over ply.

I screwed the pieces together and used a silicon bead along the edges to fill in any gaps. If you leave the gaps, the plaster will just seep out!

Starting to "fill in" the base with more modeling clay (same stuff used to make the original master).

I built up the clay until the silicon master was elevated to the centre/middle of the box.

Once I reached the centre, I started neatening the edges along the silicon master. This is known as the "part line".

Spend most time on this area as if it isn't done neatly, there will be a noticeable part line down your mug.

Once finished, I popped in some indentations (I think they are referred to as "keys"). These will act as your locking mechanism when keeping your 2-part mold together in alignment. I just used the end of a thick marker.

Now it's ready for the plaster pour. I used Ceramical, 40m part water/100 part plaster. It dries in about 20 minutes! And as all plasters do, it heats up when it goes off (off as in hard, not smelly!)

Once the plaster had dried, I turned it upside and started to remove the modeling clay from underneath. The moment of truth!

This is what it looks like with all the clay removed. It's now ready for the second plaster pour.

Tomorrow it's off to buy some ceramic slip to start pouring the mugs. Depending on how long the slips take for each mug - I may be making more plaster molds to speed up the production line.

Hope you're all getting something out of this!

Thanks for taking the time to show us all of your hard work. It really is fascinating to watch.

This is really, really cool!
Your mug design is fantastic, and the effort you're putting into the mold process is obvious. I can't wait to see the next step!

great pics and explanations - this mug will turn out awesome!

Wow - great looking mug! The step by step pics are amazing too. Great work!

Nice, explicit details. Was this your first mold or have you done it before? You're totally right about the part line being the majority of the labor. I think every mold maker has their own tools/methods for the "clay up". I bet it's much easier with a silicon master. When working on the part line one has to be VERY CAREFUL not to gouge the original sculpt, which for us is usually plasticene. We generally make the box out of foam-core AFTER buiding the clay up. This way we have easier access to the part line. I think I'm going to build a reuseable, adjustable box out of wood for future molds.

You skipped the step where you poured the plaster. Did you do a "splash coat" over the sculp first? After spritzing the sculp with water, we gently brush a small amount of the plaster in it's fairly liquid state over the exposed half of the piece first and gently brush it around, or if possible, lightly blow on it with compressed air. This is a good way of getting rid of any bubbles that may form. When we're happy with this, we then pour the rest of the plaster into the form. It's a bit tricky, especially if the plaster kicks quickly, but always works pretty well.

In addition to keys, we add pry points to our molds. That is, before pouring the second half, stick a couple of small wedges onto the mold, making sure they touch the sides of the box. These wedges in our case are usually just bits of clay. This leaves you with a place on the mold in which to stick a flat head screwdriver for leverage in getting it open. Very nice to have, especially when you open it for the first time.

I could go on with asking questions and imparting the bits that I know for hours. I'm really liking this thread. Thanks for all the pictures. I think this should take some of the mystery out of the process for people.

nice work,
Joe

Great fun to watch this fellow come together. Lots of smarts and hard work too. Much Respect....Hey what happens to little rubberhead when you're finished... is destroyed or can you keep him to re-use as the molds eventually deteriorate?

This is a really cool thread. I'm intrigued enough to give this a shot at some point. What sort of tools do you use for the clay sculpt (I'm not much of a clay person). Do the tools at a normal craft/hobby shop suffice or do you have to go somewhere special?

Thank you all!

Rum Demon:
-This is my first mold ever! :D
-There's certainly no problems with gauging the silicon master, all concentrated efforts go to creating the part line - you can knock this guy around as much as you like.
-I didn't do a splash coat. Not familiar with that one, although it'd be worth a try. I just poured it straight in - at the lowest point and VERY slowly to ensure all (most) bubbles disappear.
-LOVE the "pry points" idea, I'll definitely be doing that one next time.
-Thanks for your input and advice, glad you're liking this thread and adding to it too!

hodadhank: the silicon master will last a very long time indeed. Not sure how long but I'm guessing many years.

TikiJosh: I used lino cutting tools and a couple of sculpting tools from the art shop for the clay master. Nothing too special!

hmc
Helen McLean

[ Edited by: hmc 2006-02-19 16:09 ]

This is the best thread and most useful in a long time here for me. Heck, I don't need to win a Mug Making contest, I can just make the mug. And in no time. It would be nice to have the backing and support of a major company but the rewards for making something with your own hands is also as good.

I have never heard of making a silicone positive (the mug) but its just as cool. ((Don't let his fall into the wrong hands :wink: )) A fired positive probably would work?. Two less steps.

The next steps are the mystery to me. I never could understand how a thin wall of clay is formed to the negative (plaster). I heard that there is a machine that pumps?? Again, Unsure, never have done a mold. The only way that I could think it would be possibly would be to spin the mold and have the G-forces pull the clay to the outside. I know that this is not how it's done.

Very interested in all that you have shown and certainly the next step, as well as the final product. I already know its going to be a great mug. Thanks for showing us the light even if no one make a mug. But since this is your first its very encouraging for me and others to make ours.
-teaKEY