New book on history of rum - excerpt on Pusser's rum

Lately I've been reading Rum: The Epic Story of the Drink That Conquered the World by Charles A. Coulombe (Citadel Press 2004). I just read the fascinating chapter on Grog and the Navy. As you may already know, the Royal Navy started issuing rum rations starting in the 17th. Century, and in 1740 Vice Admiral Edward Vernon (aka "Old Grogram" - after the material his coat was made from) had the rum ration mixed with water, to reduce it's strength, and sugar, lime, and lemon juices to help prevent scurvy (later the mixture was called "grog").

Here's some excerpts about Pusser's rum:

Already in 1874, exclusive brokering rights for rum to the Royal Navy had been awarded to James Man, a merchant trading with the West Indies. He and his sons after him imported the liquor and sold it to the navy; naval officials in turn had it transported to the vats at the newly built naval yards in Gosport and Devonport. So pleased was the navy with the Man's family's work that the rum brokerage remained in their hands as long as the service required the drink.

In 1850, in response to recurring complaints of the ill effects of drunkeness among the men, the Admiralty decided to reduce the rum tot yet again. It was to be cut in half, and the noon ration was eliminated. There would be compensation in food and cash, and more money for those willing to forego the tot completely. Underage sailors (those under the age of twenty), who had no choice in the matter, lost their rum as a group.

But for the rum drinkers who remained, the Admiralty needed to ensure that the remaining eighth of a pint was the best possible. From this time on, the Man Company began to blend Trinidad and Demerara rums in a particular formula that pleased both naval noses and palates. Seamen, however, preferred dark to light rum; this was a bit difficult, since the same refining process that produced superior taste and bouquet turned out a pale product. A solution was found by adding caramel and/or burned sugar to the brew. The exact blend was a closely guarded secret; as a result, sailors always complained about civilian rums!

Another major reform that followed in 1851 was the regularization of the office of purser aboard ship. This functionary, who time out of mind had been responsible for provisioning the crew, was a hated individual. Familiarly called the "pusser" (through the same naval linguistic alchemy that turned the forecastle into the "foc'sle" and the boatswain into the "bosun"), he was often suspected, since he was an independent agent, of making his own money from commissions by siphoning off supplies and selling them. But in 1851, he was given a regular salary and placed under the Admiralty. Now called the paymaster, he became a regular wardroom officer; all of the abuses connected with the position swiftly disappeared. Henceforth, the rum ration would never be watered down more than rules required.

The rum ration in the Royal Navy remined until 1970, when the Admiralty and Parliament abolished the practice.

But after 1970, the rum specially made by E. D. and F. Man for the navy ceased production. As noticed earlier, it was a unique blend and its demise was mourned by rum connoisseurs the world over. At 95.5 proof, this special "Pusser's" rum was unique. Fortunately for lovers of the drink, an American ex-marine named Charles Tobias went into partnership with the Man Company and opened a distillery on Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands. Using the closely guarded naval recipe, he opened Pussers Ltd., which now bottles and distributes Pusser's Rum. For every case sold, Tobias donates $2 to the Royal Navy Sailor's Fund; in return, Pusser's now graces every main brace splicing!

I won't go into what a main brace splicing is. For that, you'll have to buy the book.

The chapter offers more interesting facts on rum and the military. For example, the Indian navy is the last navy in the world that still has a rum ration. Also, I was surprised to read that the U.S. Marines still serve rum punch at their formal "Mess Nights", which is made with "four parts dark rum, two parts lime juice, one part maple syrup, and a small amount of grenadine", a tradition that started back in 1775, which is why it's called "1775 Rum Punch" today.

Picked up this book recently at a used book store...excellent read. History is fascinating, and there are food and drink recipes at the end of each chapter.

I read it some time ago and agree it it a good read. History is fascinating when rum is involved.

The Washington Post reviewed this book this past weekend. Here is an excerpt from that review .....

Interestingly, and contrarily, Curtis argues that the trend toward the bland was slowed, if not halted, by the tiki bars of the 1950s and '60s. We may think of Trader Vic's and other such establishments as nothing more than the South Seas Disneyfied, but Curtis points out that many of the rum drinks invented and sold there -- most famously, the mai tai -- were excellent concoctions that profited from being made with distinctive rums; the mai tai, he says, is "an exceptionally fine drink when made well," which is to say (among others things) when made with fresh ingredients rather than those poured out of a package.

Another small historical note -- one of the persons who served under Admiral Edward Vernon was Lawrence Washington, the elder brother of George. Lawrence was impressed enough by Admiral Vernon that he named his Virginia estate after him, and that is how Mount Vernon - the home of our first president - got its name.

George Washington operated a distillery on the property of Mount Vernon, which is currently being reconstructed. Here is a website that documents a rum delivery made to Mount Vernon (witnessed by George) and tells more about the distillery reconstruction.
http://www.archaeology.org/interactive/mtvernon/forum.html

vern

Gents:

An authoritative and accurate tome on this entire subject on the rum history of the British Navy is Nelson's Blood - The Story of Naval Rum by Captain James Pack OBE RN. I assure you it is the BEST book on the subject of Naval Rum. Detailed to the nth degree.

Perhaps a bit hard to get in hardback, as I looked several months.

James Pack published this exhaustiive book in 1982, after a life of research as an officer in the Royal Navy. Sadly, he died in 1995, but left us the best historical perspective on the victual of rum to the armada that ruled the waves.

Gents:

That's the nicest thing I've been called in quite a while! :)

Rum Balls:

Bon Vivants who discuss the history of British Navy Rum are always GENTLEMEN!
Even if they are Cads at heart!

Rum Numb Davey:

Or as my dad always says, "You're a gentleman and a scholar, and there's damn few of us left."

Cheers!

Touche my good Rum Balls!

On 2006-07-28 11:22, Rum Numb Davey wrote:
Touche my good Rum Balls!

That phrase just plain sounds wrong.

It does sound very wrong..I will change it to to touche my good, Mr. Rumbolz

Much better

On 2005-01-08 16:21, thejab wrote:
The chapter offers more interesting facts on rum and the military. For example, the Indian navy is the last navy in the world that still has a rum ration.

Not true,

The Canadian Navy still rations rum on special occasions. But I guess it is true that it no longer has a daily ration.

[ Edited by: Tikiwahine 2006-08-01 16:47 ]

On 2006-08-01 16:45, Tikiwahine wrote:

On 2005-01-08 16:21, thejab wrote:
The chapter offers more interesting facts on rum and the military. For example, the Indian navy is the last navy in the world that still has a rum ration.

Not true,

The Canadian Navy still rations rum on special occasions. But I guess it is true that it no longer has a daily ration.

Yes, I meant a regular daily ration for sailors. The U.S. Navy has special ceremonies where they even make a rum punch. One such ceremony is described in the book.