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http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2005/01/16/CMGHGAG34N1.DTL&type=printable

Last weekend much despised critic Michael Bauer wrote the above review of the new Trader Vic's

Apparently it actually hurt business there and especially, it made Sven Koch look very bad even though he was not working on the nights Bauer was there. Sven Koch has been very supportive of the Tiki scene

Here is my letter in reply

Dear Mrs. Biggar

Maybe I'm missing something here? Was this supposed to be funny? Michael Bauer a restaurant critic or a comedian? If he's writing for effect I'd have to say it was not half bad, but not half good either.

I was shocked to read Michael Bauer skewering of Trader Vic's, San Francisco. I have been there three times and my experience has been much different than his. Surprisingly, on the three occasions I went I sat near the lava rock wall, in the Captain's Cabin area, and at the bar because they were too booked to get a table. This is exactly the same seating as Mr. Bauer, yet my interpretation of events is quite different.

While I cannot contest his "palate" - I'm sure it is much more refined than mine - I feel compelled to set the record straight on Trader Vic's bar and overall ambiance.

"Most times there's so much crushed ice in the drinks they look more like a snow cones than whistle- wetters. When you're paying anywhere from $8 to $12, the tab adds up fast."
The reason patrons are gladly paying $8 - $12 for one drink is because the drink is expertly crafted by highly trained staff of bartenders. Trader Vic's only pours top shelf-quality rum into their drinks and most drinks contain as much alcohol as two or three standard well drinks. It requires a good recipe and proper mixology to make a drink that strong taste that good - hence the "snow cone" of crushed ice. Take the Mai Tai for example. Trader Vic's uses over two ounces of alcohol including their own custom blend of Caribbean rums plus fresh squeezed lime juice,fresh mint, fresh pineapple spear garnish. This is far more than a mere cocktail.
Michael failed to note that Trader Vic's has the best selection of rum of any bar or restaurant in San Francisco.
Also, it's funny that he states "never mind the wine" yet can't find much good to say about the wine list which I understand to be one of the most well rounded in town?

As for the decor which Michael calls "Polynesian Kitsch," yes, it is hard to update a style that is over 50 years old but I think Vic's has done a fine job here. Rather than clutter the bar and dining room which was di rigeur for Tiki bars of the 50s Vic's uses a few large elements to achieve the same effect. A couple of very nicely carved large Tikis look over the bar area and can be seen from anywhere in the dining room. Over head is a huge outrigger, a must for any respectable Tiki bar, surrounded by a varied display of Japanese fish float lights, again, a must for every Tiki bar. The lava rock walls, a standard classic element in Tiki bars, adds an exotic flair to one end of the room yet remains refined and subtle. Across from the bar one wall is covered with authentic South Seas masks arranged into a wallpaper-like pattern - a clever way to provide dense visual decor without intruding into the restaurant space. I found the environment to be intimate yet interesting.
I found the wait staff to be attentive and not too obtrusive allowing enough space and time to enjoy a romantic meal. At the bar I found a lively scene with friendly patrons sharing barstools and appetizers. The bartenders instinctively know just how long it takes to finish one Mai Tai and they reappear to remove the empty glass and take a new order.

Overall my experience resonated quite well and I believe other folks have had similar experiences, otherwise Trader Vic's would not be booked solid!

I find it hard to believe that Mr. Bauer is unable to find one good thing to write about the new Trader Vic's. Sounds like sour grapes to me.

Sincerely
Otto von Stroheim
Tiki News magazine

[ Edited by: Otto on 2005-01-21 13:11 ]

Here's a food review for ya Mr. Bauer...
Bite Me!

My letter has been sent. Although I have not been there myself, well, that doesn't mean I can't help out.

"....it seems as if Mr. Bauer was a whiny child that did not receive as much attention as he so desired, being the oh so powerful critic from the Chronicle."

I guess in general it's reasonable for a reviewer to present his raw opinions, and as readers we can take them or leave them. But in this case, Bauer pretty much states upfront that he doesn't like Polynesian-themed food, drinks, or decor. So can someone explain why his review has any informative value at all? Overall, it amounts to a review that says, "if you don't like places like Trader Vic's (like me), then you won't like the new SF Trader Vic's." An obvious statement, that completely ignores the fact that many real people DO like classic Polynesian themed places like Trader Vic's.

If I categorically dislike rap music, then any review I write of a rap cd is meaningless to fans of the genre, so why would anyone publish it?

Aside from all that, Bauer's overactive sensitivity to elite vs. common folk during his dining experience is not charming. It's also totally useless in a review, for most regular diners who aren't plagued by self-esteem hangups about whether the staff knows "who we are".

-Randy

"Even well-executed dishes such as the Rex sole ($21), doused in a rich cream sauce with bay shrimp, spinach and fingerling potatoes, felt heavy and outdated"

Huh? Surely it can't be both well-executed and 'heavy & outdated' at the same time. I think he's had a few too many snow cone drinks.

Trader Woody

On 2005-01-21 18:10, Trader Woody wrote:
"Even well-executed dishes such as the Rex sole ($21), doused in a rich cream sauce with bay shrimp, spinach and fingerling potatoes, felt heavy and outdated"

Huh? Surely it can't be both well-executed and 'heavy & outdated' at the same time. I think he's had a few too many snow cone drinks.

Trader Woody

I love their drink that is actually served in a cone of ice--the Son of Doctor Funk!!! It is really rediculous to drink because you have this cone of ice on a slad sized plate and you hold the plate with your had and slurp out of the straw!

Word around town, is that Michael Bauer was a great fan of the former Stars restaurant - that TV's took over- and was really sad to see it's demise.
It's also way obvious that he cares not for Polynesian themed restaurants.
Then why the hell did he not recused himself from this review ?! Surely, he's been in the biz long enough to know that objectivity is the name of the game.
Regarding the "snootiness" he experienced when he walked in...that's almost de riguer for San Francisco restaurants. Not that it's a good thing, but it's a fact ! I'm sure he experiences that everyday. Why single it out at Vic's ?

Here's my first and only experience at the new Vic's.

Unlike Emeryville, I received very disapproving looks from the "suits" when I walked in. I even noticed one actually gave me a quick look head to toe- and he didn't have a smile on his face, that's for sure! Needless to say, we were not very comfortable sitting down in the bar area for a drink. And the reviewer is part right- the original Mai Tai I had had so much ice in it and so little drink- and tasted slightly watered down. I don't know if it was my imagination or not. I've had many Mai Tai's at Emeryville and Palo Alto and have never had that impression while drinking at those locations. Also, there were very few people in the bar area, and it was just before dinner time, so you think the service would be better- but the waiter was rather slow with the service and returning with the check. Again, I thought this was just my imagination, but after reading that review, I'm not so sure.

I can tell you I won't be going to Vic's SF again. And, it looks like they'll need to do a better job with the food and service if they want to keep the upper class diners that they seem so interested in having- there are so many other upscale restaurants in town. (end of my review) :)

On 2005-01-22 12:39, Conga Mike wrote:
Word around town, is that Michael Bauer was a great fan of the former Stars restaurant - that TV's took over- and was really sad to see it's demise.
It's also way obvious that he cares not for Polynesian themed restaurants.
Then why the hell did he not recused himself from this review ?! Surely, he's been in the biz long enough to know that objectivity is the name of the game.
Regarding the "snootiness" he experienced when he walked in...that's almost de riguer for San Francisco restaurants. Not that it's a good thing, but it's a fact ! I'm sure he experiences that everyday. Why single it out at Vic's ?

Firstly I was also a big fan of Stars and Jeremiah Tower's cooking. I also agree on some of the points you all make and I am sure there is still PLENTY of snobbery in in the finer restaurants in the Bay Area (not that that's a good thing!). But as I have said before this is a restaurant (a business) in one of the most competitive and inovative restaurant scenes in America, so they are bound to be tough in thier reviews. They don't have the desire and interest in the retro-kitch of a classic Tiki Bar as we do. It is sort of like opening an airline that flies in a competive area with classic old planes and complaining about the noise, lack of speed and comfort. Airline buffs couldn't care less, but Joe Tourist or businessman would. In the end do you remain true to the classic or do you 'modernize' the business so it can compete in the modern market? I guess it depends on if it can survive on retro-kitch alone. All things considered they may need to be more careful with at LEAST the service. IMHO

I tried to send an e-mail to that address from 2 different e-mail accounts but they both got bounced back - anyone else have this problem?

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