Trader Vic's Bring the Aloha to Bellevue!

So the location might be something of a surprise to many entrenced Tiki-philes--used to digging into their favorite city haunt, but the long-standing relationship between the Trader Vic's franchise and the Westin Hotel chain has put Washington back on the map as a Tiki oasis in the middle of the suburban antipathy. Welcome Back!

Sea-Tiki and I had a seven p.m. dinner reservation. At the bar by 5:30 for pu pu's and frosty drinks, we were greeted by some old friends from the Tiki Central web-circle. Selector Lopaka and crew beat us to the watering hole by 15 minutes and were well on their way to snapping a gaggle of shots of the decor (which is really pretty terrific). At first blush, the bar was filled with neophytes and the usual post-work herd of eastsiders there to peek under the big top. We ordered a seafood tartare starter--tuna, salmon, and scallops. The selections, carefully ringmolded ala neuvo cuisine, were nested on a steamed banana leaf and garnished with a radicchio "cup" in which a sprinkling of slivered munk beans rested. Each tartare retained it's consistency and the spicing was unique per offering: tuna blended with a sublime soy sauce, salmon mixed with a soft miso, scallops accented with what I assume was grey salt and a pink peppercorn mix. Easy on the eyes, and the palate. The first drink pairing was a forray into the Trader Vic's signature drink: The Mai Tai. I had high hopes for the drink and wasn't disappointed. Thoroughly crushed ice, a sublime blend of rum and the corresponding flavors was simply an excuse to drink another. Which I did. The garnish was classic--including the mint sprig--a commonly overlooked feature on most Mai Tais. These were followed by a Tabu--the Trader's drink invented for the Bellevue Opening. Served in the timeless "coconut" tumbler, the coconut rum and light pineapple aftertaste did little to mask the potency of the drink. The service was timely and unhurried, the staff in the bar was clear and non-plussed in their description of the drinks and the appetizer menu. When it was time for dinner, the hostess gracefully transitioned us to the dining room with no mention of the bar bill.
No reason to muddy the waters with talk of money half way through a dinner--call it a personal pet peeve.
The dining room at Trader Vic's may suprise a few people. It is, in a practical senses, a formal dining room. Leave tiki-kitch to the bar! White tablecloths, soft lighting, tasteful decor, plush leather seating, heavy silverware, signature Trader Vic's serving ware, and the same even-handed service one would expect in such an atmosphere. Our waiter, Jesse, was clean cut, well spoken, and very knowledgable about the offerings. We began with a Tiki Bowl: a potent variation of the Scorpion Bowl. Washington State liquor law prohibits two people from sharing one big drink in a restaurant.
Clearly this meant that we each had to drink one. Our entrees reflected the more formal atmosphere of the dining room. I ordered a rib eye steak from the Chinese clay oven. It was paired with grilled asparagus and panko breaded onion rings--a creative spin on the more mundane "grilled onion relish" which has nosed its way on to far too many menus these days. Again, presentation was at a premium! The asparagus was stacked into a cabin and was topped with four gigantic onion rings. The rib eye was dusted with an incredible spice rub (North African?)and smoked to "fall over and cry" perfection. The marbling was perfect, rendering the cut both flavorful and moist. Jesse stopped by our table twice. Both visits were polite and speedy. By the time dessert began we both wanted to explode. Portions are hefty and one entree can easily feed two people. March on, however, we did. Teresa's banana profiteroles, a polynesian take on the Austrian classic, were perfectly golden and arranged as spokes around a petite scoop of vanilla bean ice cream.
I ordered a door stop looking piece of chocolate and macadamia nut decadence--although not true decadence in its flourless variation-- it still maintained its density and depth. At that point, the coffee was useless as the rum had pickled my brain. I think it was good. Interestingly, the clientele in the dining room was a little older than one might expect. These, however, were all people that had been to Trader Vic's in the heyday. Well dressed in jackets and dresses, jewlery, cufflinks, handbags. They ate slowly, almost with a reminiscent quality suggesting a better era. We spoke with two older couples and both spoke fondly of The Outrigger era in Seattle and what it meant to go to a Trader Vic's in the 1960's and 1970's.
Indeed, the Tiki movement in American culture and life was prefabricated. It remains an artifice and trope--a distraction and escape from the harried life we all lead. But as we listened to Ruth Whitested describe her engagement party at a Trader Vic's in 1968, it was easy to recognize that in our escapes we sometimes find authentication. We crawled out of Trader Vic's and stumbled to the valet--a little punchy to say the least.

I highly recommend a visit to the new location. It's happy hour all day Sunday and you can't go wrong with that. Mahalo!

The Jab, Selector Lopaka, Kick in the Reverb, Puamana, Mr Dogbytes, dogbytes

we were there for lunch ~ more pictures here

Sea-Tiki, what a great review! Can hardly wait till next week.. cya then!

I'm not sure what your day job is, but you might consider yourself an excellent candidate to be a food critic.

As a former food critic myself (Portland Tribune) I see balanced informed review including service, drinks, atmosphere, recognising demos of other patrons and of course, food quality/quantity.

Thank you for your well informed review, can't wait to make the 3 hour trek north to check it out.

Robert

In Seattle last weekend, and had time for an all-too-brief stop at TV's. Had a very tasty Mai Tai and soaked in the ambience for a half-hour. Very nice! Will be back Memorial Day weekend with the wahine.
:drink: