Midnite's Global Journey of Spiritual Discovery*

Ahoy Hoy, it certainly has been some time since the last post-worthy excursion. Honestly, travel has taken a backseat in the last ten months or so, maybe that will change.

SOUTH KOREA & JAPAN 2011

A quick note about this trip: Its original embarkation was scheduled for the second week of March. Yes, mid-March, Tokyo. Obviously, a happy-go-lucky drinking and club sandwich-eating holiday in Tokyo was not in the cards. At the same time, we feel so strongly about Japan we refused to stay away for more than a brief time. We believed going there AND enjoying ourselves was a proper expression of support. Many Japanese we encountered were surprised to see Western visitors. So, just three weeks after our original departure we headed to Seoul, landing in Tokyo approximately one month after the earthquake/tsunami.

SEOUL

Existing knowledge and perceptions about Seoul? Minimal. Initial impressions: the second largest (or so) city in the world is that big. I mean it is BIG. And modern. Final impressions: It possesses a real American sensibility. Just as the U.S. is not steeped in much history Seoul seems to have been born in the last few decades. Everything is new, clean, and very state of the art. Our brief visit would not provide any serious insight into the city, but what I was able to see and experience I truly enjoyed. South Korea was not just another country to check off on the list, I'd really like to visit again.

Our big "see" while in Seoul was the DMZ. Specifically, the JSA at Panmunjom. We were part of a USO tour to the famous blue buildings in Panmunjom, along with other military and civil aspects of Camp Bonifas and the surrounding area. The trip is chaperoned and lead by U.S. Military personnel. Starting with a short briefing on history, there are numerous and continual security warnings and directions. At points I wondered why they would allow tourists to wander up here if it were really that dangerous. Some of it seems a bit of theater, but one leaves with a very distinct impression: this place is intense. Yes, that's North Korea right there, those are mine fields, that is where battles with NK troops took place in the last few decades. In the first photo below you can just make out the NK soldier watching us with binoculars. The one of me shows NK's "Propaganda City" in the background, with the road to the "Bridge of No Return" in the foreground. That's the bridge in the third photo. One is not permitted anywhere near it on foot.

Spooky, interesting, a bit depressing. I've never been anywhere remotely like this, and that's a good thing. I could go on and on about the visit, from the ghost town aspects of the last rail station in the South before NK, to the traditional Korean tiki-like carvings near the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel area. If you ever get the chance to see the DMZ, take it. Then again, perhaps sense and reason could prevail and there'd be no need for the place. I'd not hold your breath for that outcome.

The remainder of our brief stay was spent exploring bits of Seoul. The city is just immense, a few days provides one only the thinnest exposure. Subway trips of thirty minutes were commonplace, vast distances must be covered while traversing this mega-opolis. Seoul reminded me of Tokyo, for obvious reasons, but a lot of it could have been NYC or Los Angeles. It's definitely a city of the future, one senses their best days are ahead of them. I'd hope to spend a few of those days with them.

Tiki and Club Sandwiches Seoul style? Well, there is one bar. A sort of faux-tropical place, in Itaewon: The Bungalow. We visited but did not take in the waters. It's not quite our scene. A good club though? Oh yes, at the Park Hyatt Seoul they do a lovely turn on the traditional with a particularly fine toasted bread. A bit heavy on the mayo/lettuce combination...more slaw than anything else, but eating a good club high above Seoul looking out at miles and miles of cityscape? Thumbs up from this judge.

TOKYO

At first I was dismissive, I'd already heard of it, it is old news. The "news" was a big earthquake in Japan. I got notice of it at another website I frequent but dismissed it as the rather large quake that hit but a few days earlier. No, was the reply, this is a new one and is much worse. I turned on the television late Thursday night and saw the live footage from Japan. It was a harrowing few days of worry and contemplation about friends there, our upcoming trip, the long term health of my favorite country.

When I saw the long lines for the reduced subway trains, troubles with food/water supplies, and the deep sadness of such a tragedy I knew a few days of even mild "good times" in Tokyo would be impossible. We'd be more in the way than not and I felt it would be inappropriate to visit so soon. We delayed the trip three weeks and hoped that we could go, showing at least a form of solidarity with the the people of Japan. Yes, we'd try and do just that if only for a few days. Sure, the city was darkened by voluntary electricity cutbacks and much of the talk was of tragic and terribly depressing events. Still, here and there the place was back to a "new normal" and life went on pretty well, if a bit subdued. One moment encapsulated it very clearly. A pedestrian walkway near a small amusement park in Asakusa, a local garage busking with some Japanese Pop. It was a very authentic Japanese scene, and then the rumbling started. At first I thought it could be the foot traffic on the walkway's artificial surface. Maybe it was the subway? No, after a few seconds I knew. Earthquake. One of the medium-sized aftershocks we'd experience. One of a number I stopped counting. Everyone held in their tracks for a second or so, gauging the force, assessing if more serious safety measure would be needed. Nope, just ride it out, there'll be another in an hour, or two. And there was.

The fair Michelle and I did our usuals in Tokyo. This trip we made an effort to spend more time at Trader Vic's. A better time I don't think could have been had. General Manager Larry and his crew (family, really) treated us so well it makes me smile just thinking about it. From Deano-san the Bar Manager, to Mr Cherry Blossom, the Asst. Bar Manager. From our favorite bartender, and inventor of the Sakura Mai Tai, Bob, to veteran server Judy Roast Beef. Hey, even server Gori (need to get him a better nickname, Larry) who is a short-timer at Vic's with only five years tenure. They're the best, and Larry oversees it all with more enthusiasm and dedication for the job than just about anyone I have ever seen. If anyone was truly born for a job it has to be Larry and the General Managership of Tokyo Trader Vic's.

This time we were able to introduce our good pal, Gary(Kazuki), to Trader Vic's and our deep appreciation of tropicals. I am hoping he takes to the place and the drinks. Our hours at Vic's were filled with many great cocktails (the Mai Tais are better here than other Vic's locations) and numerous American Clubhouse Sandwiches. No Miss Cherry Blossom cocktail this year, not sure why.

While caught up in a fevered moment of adventurism we visited TIKI TIKI's Shinjuku location. It's better than Yokohama. Yes. It's better. I had a "Lava Flow" which was better than Michelle's "Plumeria." Yep, it's better. Better. What's one millimeter above "awful"? That's it. That much better.

Of course we made shopping excursions for my favorite Japanese shirt-wear and thanks to Mr Cherry Blossom himself we found Sun Surf nirvana in nearby Yokohama. Standing there weeping like Daisy, I've never seen such beautiful shirts before. Now I have to get back to Tokyo Vic's and wear them while sipping a few cocktails at the bar. Speaking of bars we did visit some of our favorites in Ginza. I strongly recommend a visit to Little Smith. Pictured below is the Old Fashioned I was served there. Ginza's Little Smith is amazingly good and is now a midnite fave. Regrettably, I can no longer say the same of Tender Bar, the Ginza bar which was just about my favorite spot on Earth a year ago. Let's just say I shan't be returning.

I will continue to happily frequent another favorite from last year, Bar High Five. Mr. Ueno is back behind the stick after losing almost all of his liquor inventory to the quake. Yes, he's still serving the world's greatest cocktail, his Singapore Sling. I had three, I think, and they remain that good. We first went to Bar High Five soon after landing on Thursday, but due to the evening's earlier bad news/difficulties we were not able to fully enjoy our visit. That was a real shame. Saturday, Michelle and I were shopping in the restaurantware district near Asakusa when a well-dressed Japanese man started waving at me. Now, I know perhaps two people in all of Tokyo who would flag me down for a good reason so I figured I was doing something terribly wrong. Then I recognized him, it's Mr. Ueno from High Five! He and his assistant bartender were doing a bit of errand-running and he recognized us from Thursday and also our visit last year. I told him I was in the area trying to buy a cocktail shaker and other bar supplies. Without a moment's hesitation he motioned toward a store and said, "Here, this one." He proceeded to show me the right shop, the best pieces, and then spoke to the proprietors, assisting me in the transaction. How cool was that? Cooler than blowing off meeting Paul McCartney in London if you ask me. In a city of what, thirty million, I run into the owner of one of the most famous Ginza Bars and he helps me shop. High five!

That was a smile, a total "only in Tokyo" smile that will not soon be bettered. Later that night we returned to Bar High Five, had another Singapore Sling and talked cocktails/Japan/travel with Mr Ueno, my new shopping buddy.

Last year, Japan was a special gem which seemed to exist for my appreciation. It was a fantasy land, carefree and fun-filled. This year was different, but in a sense it was better. Yes, we escaped our own troubles for a spell, but not those of our Japanese friends and acquaintances. We were in Tokyo for some good times, while also sharing in some bad. With that came a deeper connection to the place and its people. Yes, it was sad, but it was real. That type of experience is not common in my travels, it was a special experience to me. I just wish it had not come at such a price to the Japanese people.

Stay strong, Japan.

EDIT: PS I was directed earlier today to this haunting article about stone markers in Japan.

The tsunami stones are warnings across generations

*ANEYOSHI, Japan — The stone tablet has stood on this forested hillside since before they were born, but the villagers have faithfully obeyed the stark warning carved on its weathered face: “Do not build your homes below this point!” *

[ Edited by: midnite 2011-04-21 09:35 ]

Thanks midnites for another trip report! Nice summary of what it felt like to visit at a time like this.

But I couldn't find the NK soldier with binocs.

-Randy

On 2011-04-29 17:07, aquarj wrote:
Thanks midnites for another trip report! Nice summary of what it felt like to visit at a time like this.

But I couldn't find the NK soldier with binocs.

-Randy

Exceptional traveloge!

Thanks for the kind words, guys. Always nice to hear someone enjoys the rum-soaked ramblings of this rambler. It was indeed a difficult time to visit our favorite country. I really don't think I did justice to the atmosphere in Tokyo. Failing, from lack of eloquence, to convey the sense of visiting soon after the disasters. Things were just, subdued. Uniformly so.

I am very glad we went, though.

The North Korean soldier checking us out? He's right there, the curious Commie:

The drapes are open in the window next to him. That's where more recording devices are set up by NK. Not sure what they think a bunch of goofy tourists have to offer sigint-wise, but they take it all down. The whole place is rather silly. Except for the axe killings and shoot-outs, that is.

Korean BBQ in Korea is really good, better than anything I've eaten here. Makes up for the "Guinness in Ireland is way better" cliche.

I even liked the kimchi!
midnite

Welcome back and thanks for the story and pics.

Tasteful way to support the country - nice writeup too... see you at Vic's tonight.

I'm considerably late in reading your latest superb trip report, sir midnite. Always an enjoyable read though. I just don't make it over to the Travelin' Tiki forum terribly often. I need an RSS feed on your trip thread.

Keep 'em coming. We're paying attention. Most of the time.

And that "NK soldier with the binocs" has to be one of the creepiest pics I've seen in a while. Just... bizarre. It's like they're caught in the Twilight Zone. An alternate universe. Someone needs to tell them the war's over dudes. Ditch the paranoia and join us at Trader Vic's.

*On 2011-07-18 15:03, GatorRob wrote:
And that "NK soldier with the binocs" has to be one of the creepiest pics I've seen in a while. Just... bizarre. It's like they're caught in the Twilight Zone. An alternate universe. Someone needs to tell them the war's over dudes. Ditch the paranoia and join us at Trader Vic's.
*

The one photo does not tell enough of the story. The whole place is too tense for words, bordering on lunacy, really. One starts the tour of the JSA at the Korea Freedom Building. This is where I was standing and took the photo of the NK chap looking at me. The building is huge, ornate, and practically unused for its initial purpose of family unification. Next to the NK chap with the binocs is usually more guys looking at the same, plenty of listening/recording devices. War's not over to those guys, they're in it to win it.

I'll be at the Tokyo Vic's sipping a Tokyo Sour and lunching on a Club. Life is TOO short.

Just got back from Scottsdale's soon-to-be-departed Trader Vic's. Sayanora, Vic's. No snappies worth posting, no stories to tell. Someone was right, dead men (or Trader Vic's) tell no tales.

midnite