Going Tiki , Michigan style !!! Never to early for a const project. - General Tiki

M Martiki-bird Tiki Socialite Kurume, Japan Joined: Mar 23, 2007 Posts: 140	M Martiki-bird Posted posted on Tue, Mar 11, 2008 12:15 PM On 2008-03-11 08:56, Swanky wrote: Sounds like it is well thought out. My main suggestion here is to make sure you have the main "triangles" of the roof structure bolted together soundly. The cross beam won't fly apart and as long as the roof supports are bolted to it, it won't go anywhere. 3-4 of these supports will keep the roof safe. I'm kind of lost here. Swanky, are your comments directed to Tiki Zen or TikiMeplus3? If it’s directed toward the structure of Tiki Zen’s awesome hut, there doesn’t seem to be anything structurally wrong with the roofing system. From the photos and Tiki Zen’s description, the size and species of the lumber is appropriate. The appropriate fasteners were used to connect beams at the ridge (I’m assuming back-to-back shear plates with a through bolt.) and metal tie straps (or plates) were used. Apart from the interesting angles, it’s a pretty standard two-layer wood system (beams, purlins and decking), with a hefty ridge board keeping the rafter pairs aligned. The cross members (beams) within the structure function similarly to ceiling joists in that they form a continuous tie and provide the structure with resistance to lateral thrusts. Also, if it’s been built according to code and inspected, I think it’s safe to say that it’s is indeed structurally sound. (And a fabulously designed space to boot!) TikiMeplus3’s hut has a different footprint than Tiki Zen’s. If the comments were offered for his benefit, it would help greatly if TikiMeplus3 could show a rough sketch of what he’s got in mind. I read it as hipped roof rather than gable ended like Tiki Zen’s, but that’s probably because I’ve been staring at ahip roof plan for days now. :) Anyhow, the cautions regarding proper use of fasteners that Swanky has voiced are valid- also keep this mind: the size and spanning of the roof beams is directly related to the roof load (dead, live and wind loads) and beam spacing, which in turn is directly related to the thickness and spanning capability of the wood species and grade used. TikiMeplus3, have you gotten a permit for your structure? Your idea is so cool (I love ‘old’ things) that it would be a real shame if you had to tear it down. I’m not sure what the laws are in MI, but in my town we have to get a permit for permanent structures over 6 feet tall. (Hint: when you go for a permit, don’t be surprised if there isn’t a form for a “Tiki Hut”. Here, an open design is called “gazebos” or “pavilions” depending on the design.) Sorry for beeing so wordy and looking forward to seeing your progress! ~gina (not an engineer, just a designer)

On 2008-03-11 08:56, Swanky wrote:
Sounds like it is well thought out. My main suggestion here is to make sure you have the main "triangles" of the roof structure bolted together soundly. The cross beam won't fly apart and as long as the roof supports are bolted to it, it won't go anywhere. 3-4 of these supports will keep the roof safe.

I'm kind of lost here. Swanky, are your comments directed to Tiki Zen or TikiMeplus3?

If it’s directed toward the structure of Tiki Zen’s awesome hut, there doesn’t seem to be anything structurally wrong with the roofing system. From the photos and Tiki Zen’s description, the size and species of the lumber is appropriate. The appropriate fasteners were used to connect beams at the ridge (I’m assuming back-to-back shear plates with a through bolt.) and metal tie straps (or plates) were used. Apart from the interesting angles, it’s a pretty standard two-layer wood system (beams, purlins and decking), with a hefty ridge board keeping the rafter pairs aligned. The cross members (beams) within the structure function similarly to ceiling joists in that they form a continuous tie and provide the structure with resistance to lateral thrusts. Also, if it’s been built according to code and inspected, I think it’s safe to say that it’s is indeed structurally sound. (And a fabulously designed space to boot!)

TikiMeplus3’s hut has a different footprint than Tiki Zen’s. If the comments were offered for his benefit, it would help greatly if TikiMeplus3 could show a rough sketch of what he’s got in mind. I read it as hipped roof rather than gable ended like Tiki Zen’s, but that’s probably because I’ve been staring at ahip roof plan for days now. :) Anyhow, the cautions regarding proper use of fasteners that Swanky has voiced are valid- also keep this mind: the size and spanning of the roof beams is directly related to the roof load (dead, live and wind loads) and beam spacing, which in turn is directly related to the thickness and spanning capability of the wood species and grade used.

TikiMeplus3, have you gotten a permit for your structure? Your idea is so cool (I love ‘old’ things) that it would be a real shame if you had to tear it down. I’m not sure what the laws are in MI, but in my town we have to get a permit for permanent structures over 6 feet tall. (Hint: when you go for a permit, don’t be surprised if there isn’t a form for a “Tiki Hut”. Here, an open design is called “gazebos” or “pavilions” depending on the design.)

Sorry for beeing so wordy and looking forward to seeing your progress!
~gina (not an engineer, just a designer)

Post #366190 by Martiki-bird on Tue, Mar 11, 2008 12:15 PM