Lori's first mug - updated 3/13 with final pics of #3 - Other Crafts

L LoriLovesTiki Tiki Socialite NJ Joined: Jul 03, 2011 Posts: 1339	L LoriLovesTiki Posted posted on Tue, Jan 24, 2012 11:16 AM Great question! When I teach handbuilding classes the "handling" of clay is a major focus. The challenge of hand built ceramics over oil clay sculpture over armature is that the ceramic piece needs to be self supporting - and that for the majority of the time you are working with it it is VERY plastic. Years ago when I took fencing I was always told to hold the sword like a captured bird - not too soft so it will escape, but not too hard that you will crush it. Working with wet/soft clay slabs is just the same. Move slowly, always cradle the piece with as much surface area as possible (use the full flat part of your hand to spread the weight, not just a finger or two that will put marks in the clay). The more you hand build, the more the handling of clay will become second nature. Another big help for smoothing out your piece and getting rid of unwanted finger and tool marks is a scotchbrite pad (the abrasive side of those scrubbing sponges used to scrub dishes). Hit your piece with the rough side of the sponge, then flip to the smooth side. You can get super fancy and do a pass with a soft makeup sponge too (those white super smooth triangle ones). I'll also go through a series of paint brushes (from a rough chip brush to a fine nylon brush) to smooth out my pieces. I posted a few time lapse videos of me making mugs - watch for the sponges and brushes! :) http://www.vantiki.com/VanTiki/Movies.html Timing is everything with hand building. Make your shape. Let it firm up a bit so you can handle it. Add detail. Let it firm up some more. Add more intricate detail and carve away. Let it get leather hard. Carve final detail and get rid of tool marks. If the clay is moving too slowly or quickly between these states, you can slow it down with a spritzer/spray bottle of water, or speed it up with a blowtorch. Cant wait to see the fired and glazed mug! Henrik "VanTiki" Thanks for all the information Henrik! The timeline really helps with my understanding of the process too! Thanks so much for everything. I think 1 & 2 are in the kiln as we speak so I'll have to be choosing glaze colors tomorrow I hope. :) [ Edited by: LoriLovesTiki 2012-01-24 11:17 ]

Great question! When I teach handbuilding classes the "handling" of clay is a major focus. The challenge of hand built ceramics over oil clay sculpture over armature is that the ceramic piece needs to be self supporting - and that for the majority of the time you are working with it it is VERY plastic. Years ago when I took fencing I was always told to hold the sword like a captured bird - not too soft so it will escape, but not too hard that you will crush it. Working with wet/soft clay slabs is just the same. Move slowly, always cradle the piece with as much surface area as possible (use the full flat part of your hand to spread the weight, not just a finger or two that will put marks in the clay). The more you hand build, the more the handling of clay will become second nature.

Another big help for smoothing out your piece and getting rid of unwanted finger and tool marks is a scotchbrite pad (the abrasive side of those scrubbing sponges used to scrub dishes). Hit your piece with the rough side of the sponge, then flip to the smooth side. You can get super fancy and do a pass with a soft makeup sponge too (those white super smooth triangle ones). I'll also go through a series of paint brushes (from a rough chip brush to a fine nylon brush) to smooth out my pieces. I posted a few time lapse videos of me making mugs - watch for the sponges and brushes! :)

http://www.vantiki.com/VanTiki/Movies.html

Timing is everything with hand building. Make your shape. Let it firm up a bit so you can handle it. Add detail. Let it firm up some more. Add more intricate detail and carve away. Let it get leather hard. Carve final detail and get rid of tool marks. If the clay is moving too slowly or quickly between these states, you can slow it down with a spritzer/spray bottle of water, or speed it up with a blowtorch.

Cant wait to see the fired and glazed mug!
Henrik "VanTiki"

Thanks for all the information Henrik! The timeline really helps with my understanding of the process too! Thanks so much for everything. I think 1 & 2 are in the kiln as we speak so I'll have to be choosing glaze colors tomorrow I hope. :)

[ Edited by: LoriLovesTiki 2012-01-24 11:17 ]

Post #622284 by LoriLovesTiki on Tue, Jan 24, 2012 11:16 AM