Tools Carvers Use

I've been meaning to share these tools that have really worked well for me.

They're called "Rifflers" and are usually used for stone sculpture with some of the "softer" stones like soapstone and alabaster. I was interested in stone carving before I started in with wood, and these worked also particularly well for my AAC block sculptures. With all of the different shapes, they fit well within the various nooks & crannies. Although they are made for stone work, they also work well for rough-shaping wood, before you get to the course (60 grit) sanding stage. This set is course, but they also come medium and fine. This is a cheap Chinese set and cost me only about $14.00 for the entire set. The better ones are Italian, and will cost a bit more.

Here is a link to some wood rifflers at The Woodcarving Store.

http://www.woodcarvingstore.com/FilesandRifflers/Rifflers.asp

These are even cheaper at only $10.95 for a set of 8. You might want to give them a try.

Cheers!

A-A

Check these out...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4353973366&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

I bought one during the holidays, took the tip protector off and re-riveted it together. It is an awesome tool for under 50 scheckles. It doesn't have as much torque as my 16 inch electric and won't cut my leg off like the 20 inch gas powered. Nice even speed for about 15 minutes per charge and gets into smaller places quite nicely. I am getting another just for the battery/charger so I can rotate them out. Mahalo

Tis a brave man who wears the kilt in January.

[ Edited by: McTiki on 2005-01-31 09:34 ]

McTiki, I can see where that saw could really be a valuable assett. When I first saw the tool in a catalog, I laughed and said "What would you cut with that" then I started thinking, "eyes, noses, brow lines, teeth" Thanks for posting this.

That looks pretty trick, McTiki. Let us know how it holds up & how it works for you. Could be nice for tight work, up close.

I have been using it since November. It hasn't given me any problems yet. It cuts like butter on palmwood and Bamboo.

A new carver named "Palama Tiki" emailed me the other day asking what kind of tools work best for AAC Block sculpture. He lives in Florida, and apparently convinced a nearby AAC Mfr to give him a free sample. So, here you go, Jeff. AAC Block carves up nicely, so now we're all expecting to see some pix from you soon.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

*TOOLS FOR CARVING AAC BLOCK *

You can get most of your rough featues worked out with a common wood saw. It's best to do the profile first. The blocks are perfectly flat, which makes it easy to scribe the features. I used a paper template, and just flipped it over to make both sides exact. Once you've got the profile, work on the front plane. As a new carver, this really helped me to understand going from 2-D sketches to 3-D sculpture.

The "Surform" works really well for rough rounding of the features. Think of it like a little cheese grater.

Old jacked up chisels work great. Don't use any "good" tools on this stuff. It's totally unnecessary.

Except for these - "Stone Rifflers", which are really "good" tools for AAC. They ran me about $14. Make sure & get the LARGE ones from some type of stone sculptue tool supplier (NOT the ones shown in link I posted about 4 posts back. I returned 2 of the 3 sets that I bought from that place. they were tiny, cheap, and not what I was expecting. Still waiting on the refund.)

Other than that, just dig through your tool chest. Use files, rasps, chisels, etc.

DEFINITELY wear a mask, and not those little paper ones, either. Get a good one with filters on it. This stuff is really messy, and the dust flies everywhere.

Sandpaper will add the final touches and smooth everything out. 60 or 80 grit should work fine. I don't think I'd bother going any finer than that.

I never tried these, because I did all my AAC sculptures before I picked an air compressor. But I think stones & burrs used with a die grinder would make quick work of it. I'll let you know after I do my next AAC project.

After it's all done & sanded, blow it off real good and apply some concrete sealer. This Jasco sealer also had a "fluorescent" effect, making the AAC look all nice & pearly white. AAC is full of tiny bubbles, so when you're done, the surface should have a "corally" look.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Jeff, if you have any more questions on AAC let me know. Same goes for anyone else who is interested in trying their hand at this fun carving material.

**Cheers!

A-A**

"Ah, good taste! What a dreadful thing! Taste is the enemy of creativeness."
-Pablo Picasso

[ Edited by: Aaron's Akua on 2005-03-01 12:57 ]

Aaron:

Thanks for the post and all your help on the AAC! Pretty amazing that you used a wood saw to rough it out.. i had been looking at stone carving sites today, and saw how they roughed out the shapes with point and tooth chisels, using a cross-hatch method to chip away the stone.
Did you use the cross-hatch method when chiseling on the AAC, or a different technique?

Thanks for the heads-up on the tool site as well; i had already bookmarked it.

Also, do you know how the AAC would take paint or stain? I'm thinking of doing a Mayan carving for my daughter, and I'd like to age the stone, but since it's so porous, i'm concerned about controlling the paint or stain application.

Thanks again to you, Aaron, and all the carvers on this site; i've been lurking for a couple weeks and decided to jump on. i have one palmwood tiki complete, and am finishing up another. These are test beds for honing whatever skills i have, then i'm going to try out a larger queen palm.

Aaron's Akua said that queen is pretty fibrous; any helpful hints on carving up a queen?

Thanks again!

A-A:

Do you have any additional in-process photos of the AAC carvings? I'd be interested in seeing some of the transitional work.

Thanks again!

Palama,

To answer a few of your questions:

1. Don't use those point and tooth chisels on the AAC. In fact, don't even look at it like stone. Those chisels are used for real stone like alabaster, marble, and such. Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC) is a very lightweight concrete that is baked in an oven (autoclave) like a loaf of bread - hence all the little bubbles (aerated). You could literally scratch it with your fingernail if you tried real hard. The trick is to carve it in a way that you don't end up with sharp edges or thin features that can be damaged. Put the sealer on when you're done & it will be fine.

2. I tried some concrete stain on a sample piece with bad results - it ended up looking like I used a magic marker on some styrofoam. I have heard that it does paint up well though. I'd test it on a sample waste piece first.

3. Queen Palm can be carvable with great results! I didn't think so, but I remembered this post by Benzart on TikiRex's work. Check it out:

http://www.tikicentral.com/viewtopic.php?topic=13235&forum=7

4. I've not yet done a step-by-step on an AAC sculpture in the making. Good idea though! I'll do something on the next one after I finish a couple of wood pieces that are at the top of my list right now.

A-A

"Ah, good taste! What a dreadful thing! Taste is the enemy of creativeness."
-Pablo Picasso

[ Edited by: Aaron's Akua on 2005-03-02 13:03 ]

A-A:

thanks again for all the good advice. i've only got one free block, so i have to get it right the first time, otherwise it's $160.00 for a pallet of 60 blocks. In researching the AAC process, I saw that a guy was using a bandsaw to cut pieces for a staircase that he built out of AAC.

Looks like TikiRex makes the most out of the queens, so that gives me something to shoot for.

I'll try to get some photos up some time next week.

Got this in the mail today for the 4" angle grinder...OH MY GOSH !!! CUTS SO SMOOTH THERE'S ALMOST NO NEED FOR SANDING !!! WHOA!!! SPENT TEN MIUTES WIRH A LARGE LOG AND HOGGED OUT A ONE SIDED FACE FEARURE LIKE IT WAS BUTTER !!! PICS COMING SOON !!!

Don't try to guide this tool with yer fingers!!! It's got the Mojo for cutting anything in it's path... cleanly.
Serious and safe folks only for this tool.

It's called a Lancelot blade from King Arthur tools.

Mahalo.... From the currently stoked ! I now know what alot of you have known for a long while!!! Hear my footsteps !!!

Yes, the Lancelot is a great tool - I'm super happy with mine.

I found this "tranparent" disc at Treelineusa.com.

It looks pretty cool. Has anyone here used one of these? It's $100, so I thought I'd ask around before shelling out the bucks.

A-A

Hello i use this tool in the tender wood
it is an electric gouges and cool for work
at home

sorry i have not find one links for this
tool in english

http://frptocs.bosch-pt.com/boptocs-fr/Product.jsp?division=hw&ccat_id=9653&prod_id=5969

see you

Al's.

Hey everyone

I've been reading this forum with great interest and I was going to plunge in and get some tools. I'm thinking power tools initially and I have been looking at maybe starting with a grinder and the kutzall attachments.
I was reading the owners manual for the bosch small angle grinder and it said not to use the wood grinding blades with it because of kickbacks, etc. Do they all say this?

I have also been looking at woodcraft and I am considering one of the hanging flex shaft type tools. Any thoughts as far as size motor, etc?

thanks for all the help so far. Reading the threads here has been very helpful.

I love power tools. I use them all from air to electric.... One word of advice..... They put saftey stuff on them for a reason

I will heed your advice. It only takes about a second to make you wish you had done something a little differently.

Here's a picture of the chisels I use:

The most important tool is the coffee mug. nothing like sipin' a hot cup o' joe with a few palm chunks floating in it.
YOu can also make out my sandpaper sharpening board that I use to keep the chisels nice and sharp while I carve.
THe four flat chisels on the left are all vintage. My father purchased those for me as a surprise gift the last time he came out west to see my wife and I. He purchased them at an antiqueshow in fallbrook MA. THese things are awesome, and can really hold their sharpness.
THe two chisels on the right are Ashley Isles which I bought from Rockler, both are gouges. The left one is a "U" shape gouge which is excellent for waste removal and scalloping. The one on the right is worth its weight in gold

it is a "(" shaped gouge and for a long while the only chisel I owned and used. I carved many tikis with only that chisel.

After I'm done chiseling, I'll hit the tiki with a dremel to sand and flatten out the strings in the recesses and a grinder to flatten out the larger areas.

Okay, for those of us that are interested in taking a crack at carving and are scared to death of operating power tools...what basic hand tools do you highly suggest purchasing?

I've taken a look at the hand tools, in the post, but am completely clueless.

Is there a "starter kit" that can be purchased outright? I was looking at carving tools on ebay and just got completely overwhelmed.

I'd be eternally grateful for any help!

Hi Cheekygirl, A lot depends on what you plan to carve and how small or large.. Are yo planning to carve full sized tikis in palm wood, or real woods? Are you going to carve small tikis like the pen sized tiki pens from AlohaStation or mid sized one from PalamaTiki? Do you have access to wood ?
Answer a few of these questions and we can get a better idea of what tools you will need. Good Luck..

We have several areas we'd like to trick out tiki-style.

1. Den = new tiki bar
2. Outdoor Patio = liki lounge area
3. Backyard

For now, I'd like to concentrate on a Patio Tiki. I'd like to carve a tiki that will sit in a fountain type setting. So I'd like a tiki to be about 2-3 feet. It will be a feature/focal point in the room. This is where I'd like to start.

Backyard: I'd like a series of 3 tikis for the backyard. I'm thinking I'd like to carve at least one (6 ft tall) and if the project gets too overwhelming, I'd just buy the other two, but that project will be determined at how I do with the patio tiki.

Incidentally, the den area leads out to the outdoor patio, so the flow will be wonderful! I'm so excited.

So in answering the question, for now one small 2-3 foot tiki and later a 6 ft. tiki.

Access to wood, humm, I'm a newbie at this, so I'm looking into that....I figure I'd pester the local landscrapers, etc.

Thanks for the input!

I'm sure the local landscapers and Tree removal/trimmers will have plenty wood for you and should be able to tell you the best Local carving woods.
Check for local tiki carvers in your area too, they may be able to part with a log or 2.
For tools, basics are a few straight chisels from 1/2" to 2" and lots of sand paper will get you started. Electric sander or grinder may help. Then #3 and #5 gouges in various sizes will help later down the road.
Good luck.

Thanks! Very much for your input. I'm going to buy some chisels from ebay today!

Before you do, just be Very careful and don't get the real Cheapie chisels. I know they seem like a good deal, but they come with NO Edge at all on them and when you Finally do get them sharpened, if you just Show them a piece of wood they get dull again.
Pay a few extra bucks for Name brand. When you find something you like, Post it here and I/we will evaluate it for you.
Hope this helps.

I took another look at the chisels on ebay, and the quality of some don't look so hot. I'm going to take a little trip to Lowes and take a looksee first.

I've drawn a rough sketch of the tiki I'd like to crave, so, once I get my digital camera fixed, I'll post, along with the new tools.

Thank for all your input!

Hi
I am new to Tiki forum and i just love it...i think that is owesome to have access to so many people with same interest.
Well i need help.
I lived i Europe before and i loved making sculptures from material colled "Siporex". I live in Canada now and there i nothing similar to "my" material.
Reading coments on internet and your coments on AAC i think that AAC is actually material that i used back home or it is very similar.
Please tall me where i can find it and how it goes with shipping.
I promiss you that you will like my work...
Thanks
Maja

Welcome to TC, Maja! This Post covers everything I could dig up while researching AAC Block. Hope you get some, and show us your work when you do.

A-A

Thanks for so fast answer...it is GREAT...
Hope that i will have my "rock" some time soon.
Thanks again.
Maja

Makita just came out with a new version of their 4.5" angle grinder, the 9527PB.

It's the one with the paddle switch and it's got a 7+ Amp motor. I have one on it's way I hope at the store and I'll grab the Lancelot 14 and 22 tooth and see what those do for me. I got a Dremel style grinder with a flex shaft and an array of burrs and stuff for it. I am holding off on all of it for now and just using my mallet and flat chisels. I have the Irwin Marples set and they have worked great right out of the box. I am ordering some gouges soon through either Big Horn or Japan Woodworking. I am very lucky I can order at Wholesale through work.

Swanky, just a few tips for this "asking for trouble" tool you seek.....

I use them alot and have learned from nothing but experience. I have (4) of the high amp Makita's with all different chain combos on them because I'm too lazy to stop and change them out. I prefer the one's with the manual switch's on them. You'll find that with the paddle switchs as you turn the grinder in different angles to carve, your hands are always moving into positions that make it hard to keep the paddle down. It's easier to just turn it on and leave it running for me.

The Lancelot 14 tooth is the ticket. It takes out big wood and does not hang up as bad as the 22 tooth. The 22 tooth's chain is narrower and does not work side to side as well as the thicker tooth 14 chain. You'll get a feel for it, but please be very careful with these things. They are VERY dangerous. My son in law just almost took his finger off with one about a week ago as I almost did about a year ago. Watch your step carefully around the log as you do not want to trip with this thing running in your hands. This could be BAD. Watch your hand grab the handle each time you you grab it. It's easy to stick your fingers right into the chain if you do not pay attention.

You can re-sharpen these chains, but it is a pain in the ass. I just use them for a few tikis and them chunk them. Is easier to buy new ones for $18.00 a piece. Palm will dull them faster than say white pine due to the water content in the log.

I have also carved with the chain guard off before, but I do not recommend it at all. I removed it to use the smaller Squire because the guard is in the way and does not allow you to get as deep as with the other two (Lancelots). I am "MR. Safety" at this point.....

Also watch the cord hanging down into your work area....I have cut the cord more than once and survived being shocked time and time again. The last thing you want is for the cord to get wrapped up and have this thing jerked out of yours hands before you even know it....It's easy to do because it hangs in the way sometimes, especially when you get going and don't want to stop. I usually tie it up around my waist to secure it and keep it out of the way to keep from tripping over it or cutting it. Half the time the cord ends up between my flip flop and the bottom of my heal. How's this always happens I have no clue......but it does.

Also, take a break every now and then and blow out the grinder with air or something because it sucks sawdust into it and will start running hot and you will burn it up. Keep it clean also around the switch so you can shut it down when you want.

Well I hope these tips can help you some and keep you safe and out of harm's way with this thing. It sure makes faster work on the rough out, then you can clean up with the chisles and Dremel.

Now that I have you scared to death of this wood chomping time saver, good Luck and please be careful!

G.

Couldn't have scared em better G.

The Lancelot commands mucho respect and caution. While it's value as a material remover is very high, the danger factor is also as high. Be careful and "think" while this thing is 'on' It will cut what it hits...period.

Take your time and be safe.

Mahalo

good safety tips TikiG...I only use an angle grinder but
even that can get spun out of yer hands if not careful...
gotta be careful all the time...even riding a motorcycle..
which I re-learned recently.

Do you set the handle on the grinder the way King Arthur suggests? (That sounds weird.) It's funny you suggest using the "dead man" switch instead of the paddle switch and then tell me how to avoid being bitten by the machine using the dead man switch! I hear ya though. And I'll take your suggestions. Throw the cord over my shoulder, watch the little sucker. Be freakin careful.

The plus side of the paddle switch is the new higher Amps. It's not available on the dead man switch model which is 6.4 Amps.

Swanky, I'm just saying it's easier for me to use the deadman switch over the paddle. Maybe not for you. I also learned how to keep from getting bit using the deadman switch. I use the Makita 9564 9.5 amp 4-1/2" grinders.

Link here: http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9564

I have used the 9524 5.0 amp ones for many a tiki carvings and they hold up just fine. Lighter and smaller to handle too. And cheaper..... Tried the Dewalts also. They are cheaper made and vibrate apart after while it seems. Just do not seem a s solid as the Makitas and don't trust them for some reason. The ones I use are a little longer and heavier but blast the wood away, oh yeah. I invested in the larger amped ones because I want them to last. I chop at a lot of wood these days. I have carved at least 300 tikis over the last 3-1/2 years using these things and have learned alot about this badass tool.

Look on ebay to get your replacement chains from Stimpson Tools. You can usually pick them up a little cheaper from them and they do not charge shipping most of the time.

Link here: http://stores.ebay.com/STIMPSON-SALES-WOODWORKING-TOOLS_W0QQssPageNameZviQ3asibQ3astoreviewQQtZkm

When I use the thing I hold the grinder with my right hand and put my left hand on the handle. I use it just like you you see the grinder in the link I included. Make sure you put the chain on the right way too or it will not cut right either. Also eye protection and a respirator are a good idea too.

Oh yeah, be prepared to get dusty and dirty as well.

Before using the thing and after pics below, and this is just stripping the log.

Flip Flops are optional.......

Any more questions just ask. Glad to help out.

[ Edited by: Tiki G. 2005-09-07 10:55 ]

Wow... I think I need a Lancelot. Will my $14.99 Harbor Freight 4.5 amp cheapie angle grinder have the juice to run it, or should I wait until I upgrade?

I have been runniing a lancelot on a cheapie Harbor Freight 4 1/2 " grinder for nearly a year. Tiki G carves far more than most of us ever will, and probably requires the gusto in his tools in order to be efficient. I'm just a weekend hacker and see no reason to go out and buy anything until it breaks. Then I upgrade.

Mahalo

On 2005-09-07 22:25, doubravsky wrote:
Wow... I think I need a Lancelot. Will my $14.99 Harbor Freight 4.5 amp cheapie angle grinder have the juice to run it, or should I wait until I upgrade?

The big thing I find that serarates our cheap $20 angle grinder from the nice Makita is smooth operation. The cheap ones tend to vibrate so much you can't take it. The Makita does not. Our Makitas are maybe twice the cheapos, but it's worthin it if you use it for much time. If you are just grinding off a fence post once, go for the cheap. If you are gonna use the Lancealot, you might consider an upgrade.

Has anyone tried the 2inch mini angle grinder by Merlin?
It looks very handy for details.

Oops. There it is !
Merlin....Just saw it under Lancelot in above post.
How does it do in small spaces?

Hellotiki,

I have burn't two of them up already. The last one last week as a matter of fact. I love the tool, but not for heavy use. Light usage for detailing and smoothing yeah, but for digging out behind teeth and what not no. At about $125.00 a pop it get's expensive. I used the percival from King Arthurs tools on it mostly. They have a variable speed on them and I always ran'em wide open. Good for final sanding because of the angle. Better than the Arbortech mini griders because they do not have a belt drive which slips under load.

Good tool, but cannot take a heavy load for very long....

G.

Crap or Not
Is anyone family with the tool on this ebay auction? I'm really looking for a Ryobi DC-500 (it a small handheld power chisel) but they're a little expensive.

Has any one purchased one of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/POWER-RECIPROCATING-CARVING-TOOL-BRAND-NEW_W0QQitemZ7550297137QQcategoryZ57125QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have not seen this one by Ryobi, but have seen the same recrip carvers by others. Looks like it will hold the whole line of Flexcut chisel bits. As long as you are not carving 6 ft tikis it will work like a dream.I have one by Wecheer for the foredom and I have a heavy duty one by Arbortech that fits onto a 4 -4 1/2 inch angle grinder. If you can get it for under $50, it is Very much worth it.

The nice thing about the Foredom is the flex shaft. The Ryobi looks a little awkward to handle and not so easy to get into those tough little nooks & crannies and odd angles that always come up. The nice thing about flex shaft type tools is that you can use them to run burrs and all kinds of other spinning tools (both 1/8" and 1/4" drive), then pull off the handpiece and do a quick change to a Wecheer (or other) reciprocating chisel handpiece. If I could only have one power tool that would be it because of its versatility.

Over all the tools discussed, I prefer the "Left Handed Monkey Wrench." Does wonders!!!

I just got me the Arbortech Power Chisel.
It has changed my life.
And now, I'm the envy of every guy on the block!
Golly!

I went overboard and got the arbortech power chisel, and then the Foredon and Wecheer recip. carver. Love them both!!!!

If I had to pick, I'd probably take just the Arbortech 'cause it moves so much wood so fast.. butI like the Foredom for the small tattooing kind of detail.

I agree, the Arbortech is a Heavy duty power chisel and the Wecheer is perfect for the detail. It does Wonders for the Moko!. Glad you like it.

Does anyone use the Kutzall 4" grinder wheel? I have one, love it a lot, takes off a lot of wood, but it has gotten loaded up with palm cuttings. What's the best way to remove them?