Tools Carvers Use

AlienTiki, Really nice bunch of tools. I Love the Monkeypod Tiki, could you post some closeups of it.
I am Happy that you found how useful the emory boards are. Walgreens sells many variations from big to tiny from coarse100grit to fine polishing 2000(probably) grit.
They have one that is blue and red on 1 side and grey and white on the other. Those work Great for polishing down a Raw piece of Abalone shell for eyes or whatever.
I also see your Hook blade in the Exacto handle,,Great!
Thanks for showing us some of your tools.

i'm a little lost here. do the flexcut chisels fit the weecher hand piece? are the weecher chisels not good/sharp/long lasting? is the foredom hand piece better than the weecher?

i'm sorry, i just couldn't wrap my mind around a definitive answer in this thread.

Hey!

Warning! I guess I did something wrong. I blew up my brand new (last weekend) Weecher Recip Handpiece tonight - and got jabbed in the gut by a #5 by 5/8 FlexCut chisel! It drew blood, and tore up one of my favorite aloha shirts!

Trouble is, I have no idea what I did wrong! After 20 minutes of power carving, the chuck nut disintegrated, and the ball bearing flew out the other end, and the whole hand piece blew off the end of the flex shaft, and the chisel went for my belly! It was exciting... yawn.

Now I have to stop carving while I await a replacement.

Anybody have trouble like this before?

[ Edited by: tikigap 2006-08-25 08:53 ]

so, what does that mean? weecher bad, foredom good? i'm so confused.

hope you heal fast. those gut shots can fester. pour some rum on it.

Well, we know a few things can blow up either handpiece. Neither will run iin reverse and will literally BLOW UP so if you had a reversing flexshaft,thet is posibility #1.
#2 is the way the Wecheer is made. Basically there are 2 metal plates inside with a hole drilled in each and a ball bearing placed in each holeso that as these plates turn against each other, the ball berings hit and one plate jumps up and over the other bearing. If you are working it very hard for an extended amount of time and the handpiece is heating up and really getting hot, One of the ball bearings breaks, splits down the middle (the bearing is held in place with a small rod which fits thru a hole drilled in the center of the ball) it causes the handpiece to Suddenly Jam to a stop and this twists the flexshaft until it breaks, and then your motor keeps running, meanwhile everything has come to a sudden halt with a twisting movement. I will try to explaim=n more tomorrow if it is needed as it is late and that explaination just boggled my brain.
More later.

Thanks for the info Ben.

I was being pretty careful about making the motor go in the right direction all the time. I suppose it could have run in reverse, but I think that this is unlikely, due to my O.C.D. (heh heh, I think?!?)!

I called Smokey Mtn Woodcarvers this morning - They're Great! They will replace the handpiece no problem... they want to see the old one too, because this should never happen and they said that they had never seen this problem before.

Must have been made on a Monday morning...

[ Edited by: tikigap 2006-04-06 07:11 ]

I'm new to the list and looking to get set up with tools I have about $1000 and want to get set up with power carving stuff and what ever knives and chisels attatchments that would go along with the power tools.
Any suggestions?
I have the fever and have not carved for many years! nothing significant. I love all the posts and pictures on this sight and I am ready to go, just want some direction as to the best bang for my buck$$$ on tools!!
Foredom
Electric chain saw
arbortech chisel
And the what ever hand chisels gouges attatchments without going past my $1000 mark>
I know this may be hard but I figured I should ask the experts here!!!
Thaks
Chris

Welcome to the forum Chris -

I'm new to carving too, but I've just invested in the same stuff you want. You seem to have the list down (foredom, arbortech, etc.). I got some "FlexCut" power chisels and hand chisels. They are the best overall, I'd say. I just bought a foredom SR 5240 (maybe its a 5420) model and it's nice. I bought most of my stuff from Smokey Mountain Woodcarvers - they had the best prices and free shipping on orders more that 150 bucks. They are on the web at http://www.woodcarvers.com

Good luck, and welcome to the forum again!

[ Edited by: tikigap 2006-04-06 11:55 ]

Hey Tikigap,
Thanks for reply.
I guess I just need to figure out what chisels and gouge sizes to get and what works best!
CG

Get one of each ! :wink:, and be sure to sign up for the next Coon Tiki - whenever that is! That helped me a lot.

Hey CHrisgreenup, Good luck finding the best tools. You can get a couple Flexcut sets and you won't go wrong . I recomend the"Big Mallet sculpture set, normally $125, but
Here, Just go to the Flexcut link and look for that set. The "MC150 6 piece, 10 inch MAllet tools" for $123.98 would be great too. Also the FR311 combo set is a Bargain here, $25 off. Don't forget their flexcut tools for the Recip carver that goes with your Foredom you are going to get too. Save money for a chainsaw and angle grinder too.

Thanks again!!
After reading so many of Bens great posts I am now a recipient of the masters reply with more valuable info. I look forward to creating a real tiki soon. I am tracking down some palm wood and soon will be putting together my tool list.
Can't wait to start carving.
CG

On 2006-04-05 20:44, Benzart wrote:
Well, we know a few things can blow up either handpiece. Neither will run iin reverse and will literally BLOW UP so if you had a reversing flexshaft,thet is posibility #1.

I think I f&%@ed up. I probably had the thing in reverse, (after all I said about having OCD). The people at Smokey Mountain Woodcarvers are great - they replaced the hand piece without hassle, and got a new one to me in 3 days. They also included a postage-paid box to return the broken one.

I just today realized that the power switch should be pushed down on THE LEFT to go forward. My eyesight ain't what it used to be, and I have been running it in reverse. My bad. My dumb.

Hey Benzart or someone who might know, I gots a question. I bought a 12" GB Titanium Chain Saw Carving Bar it has a quarter tip with no sprocket and two 12" FORESTER pro semi-chisel carving chain. 3/8ex pitch - .050 gauge. I bought them because I can use it on my makita 5012b and not have to change the sprocket on my chainsaw. I could have bought the same bar with a sprocket in it for the same price as the first bar but would have had to buy 1/4 pitch chains and a new sprocket for my saw. So I guess my question is will the bar with out the sprocket ware out really fast compared to the one with a sprocket and is a 1/4 inch pitch better to carve with than a 3/8? I know this sounds like one of those middle school math questions but the bars were cheap and I had to make a fast decision just wondering if I made the right one. I cant wait to try them out because I have always carved with a normal sized bar and have had some difficulties in tight places. Thought I would ask and maybe some of this info could be useful to others

Keigs, Great question.
A "Hardnose bar will, or Should last as long as a sproketed bar as long as you pay attention to a few things. Plunge cuts are the worst thing for any bar as it puts direct pressure on the tip. Keep the plunge cuts to a minimum or do them slowly. Gutting with the Top of the bar also puts extra pressure on the tip of the bar, so again keep to a minimum. Physically inspect the bar often to make sure the oiler holes are clear and the crud is removed from the bottom or the chain track. Also make sure the tip or other surface areas where the chain rests on the bar are kept filed flat. As you carve, the chain wears these surfaces and they may get rounded, keep them filed flat. If you don't, you will see the tip begin to separate, or start to be peeled back like a banana,so just look for all these things on a regular inspection. The carving bars are expensive and need to be properly cared for to get the longest life from them.

What is the difference in 3/8 and 1/4 pitch chain?? Another Very good question because many peeps do not know! It is the sama as ANY saw. Say if you use an old fasioned Hand saw, say a Cross-cut saw , with large teeth and an aggressive set to it. That saw is perfect for Cross-cuts, cutting Fast across the grain, but it leaves a rough edge, Not smoothe at all. Now, Pick up a Finer tooth saw that has smaller teeth and More teeth per inch and make the Same cut. You have to work a little harder to cut the same board, but it finishes with barely Any chips or rough edges. It is a very smoothe cut.
That is the same with the 1/4 pitch chain: Smaller teeth so you get a Much Smoother finish and you can actually carve More detail without risking large chunks tearing out. So if you want a very smoothe carving experience, go for the 1/4 pitch chainand then you can go down to the dime sized tip bar where you can really do some fine detail..
Keigs, I hope this helps and as always, just Ask and I'll be there!

Thanks Benz I knew you would have the answer and very good one. I should have bought both bars they were only $25.00 each and he would have combined shipping. I will post pics of the makita set up when I get the bar and chain.

Thanks Keigs. Thats darned Cheap for the bars, where are you getting them?

Well I made some significant tool purchasing after doing as much research as I could on the TC and help from you all. I think I should have a good amount of start up tools and I am itching to put these tools to good use.
I will post pics of the tool gathering when they arrive.
NOTE I found a place that has great prices on Flexcut tools and Dennis who runs the store is really a nice guy!!
http://www.cybercarving.com
Check it out.
CG

Bump while i'm here

Hey! I got a question about cleaning Typhoon Burs - is it ok to clean them out by burning them with a torch? I thought I read that somewhere here, but I couldn't find it.

Thanks

Yes, Heat them up and brush out the goo with a wire brush. Just don't heat it to glowing red hot and you will be OK.

Thanks Ben!

[ Edited by: tikigap 2006-06-03 21:40 ]

bump

Bump it up Again

Hi
I have a couple questions.

One- Is there an advantage to using a carvers mallet? I've been using a rubber mallet.

Two- Does anybody have an issue when you turn off your Foredom SR and have it go all the way to reverse instead of off? It makes a racket and I am concerned it will eventually cause an issue if it happens too many times.

Thanks.

JP

Hi Johnny -

I use a (birch?) mallet - it's lighter than a rubber one, but I can't think of any other distinct advantage.

I read in my foredom documentation somewhere that it said to be sure the machine comes to a complete stop before switching directions. You should be able to gently switch it off without going into the opposite direction (that's got a 3 position switch, you know). It's probably a bad thing to not wait for it to stop all the way.

JP,

I think you would really dig a polyurethane carver's mallet. You can strike from any angle vs. the rubber mallet which can be pretty awkward. Also the rubber mallet can be pretty bouncy while the polyurethane mallet feels just right! :)- I've not tried the birch mallet (or any other wooden mallet for that matter), but I believe the polyurethane models have less impact transmission to the arm and are generally quieter. Try "Wood is Good", that's my brand and I have seen a lot of other carvers using them as well. I think there's a website link in here somewhere - just do a quick search. They come in 12 & 20 oz (or 30), but it is good to have both (30 is pretty heavy).

I've never thrown the Foredom SR into reverse while it was still spinning, but it can't be good. I'd just pull the plug instead if it's happening a lot. Keep in mind also that the speed control or reverse function isn't necessary or useful if you are using the recip carver handpiece. Just plug it in direct unless you are using spinning tools.

A-A

The Foredom SR rocker switch that goes from forward/ stop/ reverse seems to allow the unit to switch directions way too easily. I have been using the speed control to stop the unit before I turn it off at the switch after I accidently reversed it a couple times, I was just wondering if other people were having the same issue.

AA. Thanks for the advice on the mallet.

Cool thread - worthy of a bump for the woodcarving noobs like myself.

A word about carvers mallets. You can use a rock, a big stick, a rubber hammer type mallet or a wood carvers mallet and the newer design, the turned carvers mallet with a layer of urethane on the striking face which is more healthy and much quieter. it really does "Save" the joints from the impact damage. So basically use whatever you want, but to do it right use the turned , wooden mallet with the urethane sleeve on it.
Hope this helps

On 2006-11-03 03:33, Benzart wrote:
So basically use whatever you want, but to do it right use the turned , wooden mallet with the urethane sleeve on it.
Hope this helps

I agree 100% with this statement. I own many mallets and i only use the urethane now and forever.

Bump for Adam

Ben, if possible could you post a picture or a website reference to the turned wooden mallet with poly sleeve. I'm not familiar with them and would prefer to get the recommended ones as I'm just gathering carving tools. TIA, uncrichie.

this one:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=915-856

it says "wood is goo" on the end.

Lots cheaper HERE, direct from the source.

They come in 12, 18, 20 & 30 oz.

It's nice to have a couple of sizes. I used to use the 20 oz. exclusively, but it was getting a bit hard on the old elbow. If you're a He-man like Tiki Diablo, try the 30 oz!

A-A

Pdrake and AaronsAkua thanks for the information. My next question as you may have already guessed is what weight to get. I understand having several would be best but if you had to buy just one which weight would it be? TIA. Uncrichie

i use a 22oz mallet.

I also have the 22oz. There are times I could use a bigger one and Many times I could use a smaller one, but I'm happy with the 22 ozer.

Thanks fellas, a 22 ozer it'll be. Uncrichie...

I called the King Arthur’s Tools factory today to order some goodies for next weekend’s S.D. Chop-Chop. Everyone in the place had gone home for the day except this one Australian fellow named Arthur – as in "King Arthur". Well long story short, this guy talked my ear off & I spent a good chunk ‘o change on an 18 tooth Squire, a new chain for my old Lancelot, and a few other things. If anyone is thinking of picking up a chain disc, I’d suggest you call the factory instead of buying it at some anonymous web retailer. The price is the same or better, and you can get all the good tech info & make the right selection. And, of course, you can talk to “The King”… :wink:

Youch!

i love mine. they command a lot of respect, though.

Those chainsaw disks can take a lot of wood off fast. It can take softer flesh off even faster. I like mine also. Be very very careful if you buy one of these, this is not a tool for people unfamiliar with power tools.

Attention Foredom users.
I had an issue where the set screw that holds the flex shaft to the motor shaft came out. The loose set screw itself ground off part of the powdered metal attachment feature on the shaft as it spun around inside the protective plastic housing. It is located inside the light grey plastic sheath that screws on the motor housing (left hand thread) that the flex shaft slides into. There are two set screws on the motor end of the shaft. The one I am talking about is not the visible one. Make sure the set screw is tight. Fortunately I was able to put it back together. Unfortunately, I now have a bunch of metal shavings inside the shaft tube that I can't get out so eventually I am going to have a premature failure.

Hey JP, the shaft willcome out of the enclosure and you can then clean it and re-grease it. Justfollow the instructions for adjusting the amount of shaft coming out the end.

Aaron please take care of your hands with that tool !!!

Ben

Slightly but not completely off topic. I was using a masonary disc on a 4-1/2" grinder to custom fit a few misscut paver bricks for my patio. I was holding the brick in my left hand and grinder in my right. Needless to say after a very trying day and being dog tired I slipped with the grinder. The top of my left thumb is healing nicely and the nail should be fully grown out in 6 months. My mistake was not having the brick clamped down and using both hands on the grinder.

I could not imagine what a chain cutting wheel accident would look like nor would I want to see one. As others have mentioned be very careful. I know gloves are a no-no with power tools but maybe kevlar gloves would be useful??? Uncrichie...

Gloves are good, but I imagine it would be very very ugly, kevlar or not, if this chain disc caught your hand. I've used the Lancelot a lot (no pun!), and pretty much wore out my first chain so now I've bought a replacement chain. It definitely comands respect. Anyone who's used one of these has caught a kickback or two, and it gets you back to reality real quick. If you run it at the wrong angle it gets real choppy, and if you let it go in the wrong direction for even just a second it will dig in and kick back real hard, leaving a big gouge in the wood.

That being said, it is an excellent tool if you are careful with it and aware of the potential danger (this from a guy who got stitches from a hand saw!). I also ordered the Squire, which is smaller diameter and can be mounted in tandem stacked right on top of the Lancelot. Can't wait to see how that works.

Is anyone here using the Arbortech Pro-4 Woodcarver blade? I've got a question if anyone can help out.

I just received the Pro-4 Kit today, which apparently includes a transparent plastic cover/shield that covers like 80% of the blade.

For some reason I thought you could use this blade in either horizontal or vertical position like the Lancelot. But after reading the package, it looks like you can only use it in vertical position like this:

I'm thinking of sending it back, but any feedback would be great.

Thanks,

Aaron

Hey Aaron, it looks like the cover takes away too much of the carving area. I'm sure it's great for safety, but overkill reduces the usability of the tool.
Since I have used a router speed control to slow down the chain/disk, it is a LOT More controllable and much safer too. TRY it, it Really makes a Huge difference.