Tools Carvers Use

You should be able to use a propane torch and a heavy duty wire brush to get the grime out.
There is some chemical stuff they make and sell to remove the pitch from sawblades which May work too. I Know the torch works fropm experience.

Aloha ben!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I want to thank you for your help figuring out what tools to get to help my carving get better. YOU truly are a MAN who cares about other artists and someone who wants to see us all get better and doesnt care about his own ego. MUCH MAHALO, and to all of my other brothers and sisters BEN is the real deal and will help each and everyone here , MUCH MAHALO again my brother, Aloha your friend , mooney

Ben-
What else would I need to make this a complete setup? This is a WECHEER RECIPROCATING HANDPIECE.

I getting my Christmas want list together. I hope I've been good this year.
moon

[ Edited by: Moondance 2005-11-23 17:38 ]

Moon, I have the Weecher and the blades that come with it aren't very good.

I bought these for my handpiece, and they work great. You can also buy a palm handle for these also

Here is a link for the set.
http://www.flexcut.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=16169&cat=250&page=1

and the Palm Handle.
http://www.flexcut.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=16166&cat=250&page=1

Thanks Tikimecula!
I just saw those 14 bit sets on ebay (starting @ $97.00b buy it now $119.00) I guess you have to pay to play!
moon

Has anyone heard of this manufactor or ever purchased from this seller??
http://stores.ebay.com/German-Carving-Chisels_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQftidZ2QQtZkm

Moon

[ Edited by: Moondance 2005-11-23 22:04 ]

What you need to go with your Wecheer recip carver is a Flexshaft machine. I have an Old Fordam and a new cheapie that works great and is offered by a respectable jewelry tool company as an "Economy" tool for $66, Very inexpensive for flexshafts.
http://www.contenti.com/products/flexshafts/236-971.html

Of course if you want the best, you get a Fordom flex shaft from here,
http://www.treelineusa.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=127-1100

And the Newest tool from Fordam is their #50 handpiece, a recip carver for the same $ as the wecheer, http://www.treelineusa.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=127-1450

Treeline also gives a 10% discount on all FlexCut chisel tips when you buy 5 or more and they stand behind their products. I broke 2 new Wecheers and they repplaced them both within days.
They Also sell the Arbortech Power chisel

Moon, I have never heard of those chisels but Have used the Hirsch brand which are VERY Good tools. They look identical and are priced about right.

Since Finkdaddy's tiki bit him I think this is relevant. I posted in his postings but thought it would be good here as well.

Check out this link for protective tape you wrap around your fingers. It is used a lot in factories that handle parts with sharp edges or operations that require trimming with knives. It won't stop a cut from happening , but can help prevent incidental contact and offers a layer of protection. You still have to be careful but it is better than raw skin. I don't use as often as I should, but even with the tape on your fingers are nimble. Lawyer speak-disclaimer etc, etc.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/searchresults.jsp?search_type=keywordandcatmfgindx&QueryString=finger+tape&catindx1=&catindx2=&xi=xi

If it doesn't take you to the product, type "finger tape" in the search field.

JP

[ Edited by: JohnnyP 2006-01-09 16:22 ]

Aloha Ben!
shoots brah! Looks like I need to go out buy some more tools! Mahalo for all your posts. There completely informative and I dont see where you get the time to do your amazing work and post da kine all the time! You da best brah!

Malama Pono!

Just curious about these tools. Anyone ever used one?
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=31118&cat=1,130,43701
It's square ended, supposed to be good for cross grain cuts to prevent splintering. I tend to have lots of trouble with that when I'm going across the grain while carving. Wondering if others have similar problems and what they do about it.

On 2006-01-17 13:23, TikiJosh wrote:
Just curious about these tools. Anyone ever used one?
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=31118&cat=1,130,43701
It's square ended, supposed to be good for cross grain cuts to prevent splintering. I tend to have lots of trouble with that when I'm going across the grain while carving. Wondering if others have similar problems and what they do about it.

Keep your blades sharp!!! Sharp like razor.
This blade seems to be more of a specific use type. Like 90 degree incised cuts. I'm not sure how the squarness will help with splintering but I know a sharp blade will cut and a dull one just pushes causing spinters,slips and accidents.

Just my 2 cents.

Holy Big Kahuna Batman those be some Righteous tool sets.My utility belt's severally lacking!

Wow - I have some more tool collecting to do. This is a valuable reference for a newbie (like me!). Benzart! You're awesome! Thanks for the eyeopener. Carving 101 is precisely what I was looking for to get started.

Try this tool to sand those difficult hard to sand with power tool areas. Unlike sanding drums on a Dremel or die grinder this does not have be used flat on the surface. Since it is tapered it is easy get into and smooth those deep difficult areas that you cannot reach with an angle grinder.

They are called tapered cartridge rolls. There are many places online that sell them in various grits and sizes. The one shown is about 1 by 2 inches.

I got mine at one of those cheap tool shops similar to Harbor Freight and were three for a dollar. The arbor was a cheap import and immediately broke in half. I just cut the head end off a lag bolt, threaded the cartridge roll on the bolt and chucked what used to be the head end in my hand drill. Worked like a charm.
JP

Hey!

Has anyone got any opinions on Bracht chisels and gouges? I just bought a set of 8 off of craigs list for $40! They're made in "West Germany".

It looked like a bargain to me because they have never been used, (they still have the dipped-plastic protectors on the blade edges), there's no marring on the butt end so they have never been stricken, either. I got 4 chisels and 4 gouges, all different sizes. All are about 14 inches long, with a metal ring around the butt end.

Thanks

TikiGap

I haven't heard of the "Bracht" brand of chisels, but there are Many german sets I am not familiar with that are great. As long as you can sharpen them and they hold an edge, they're fine.
I know I have been ignoring this post for awhile but I want to start regularly adding to it.

Another subject I would like to mention is the Angle grinder. Thay come in several sizes, 4, 4 1/2, 5, 7, and more. The most popular being the 4 and 1/2 size. I personally have 2 4" models, but the thing I want to emphasize is the use of a "router speed control" to Slow the thing down.Everyone who has come to my shop and tried a grinder with a speed control is totally blown away. The sanding disks Never burn whan slowed down and you have So Much more control that it literally becomes a Different tool. Just forget about how You used to Try to control it. With the speed control Even the Chain disk is a Pleasure to use instead of a Fright.
Seriously. Stop what you are doing and go to Harbor freight or some other tool company and fork over $12 to$40 for one depending on where you go. You Will save That much and More on the disks you don't burn up in 20 minutes
Thats it for now.

Can the speed control for the Foredom motor be used for the same thing?

Dave,

I set the foot control for the Foredom aside and replaced it with a dial speed control. I like it a lot better. I have also used the same speed control for my angle grinder and it takes a lot of the bite out of it.

-Gman

The foot control MAY work with the grinder, I don't know. Foredom has some electronic foot pedals for specific machines. The big problem with the foot pedal is you are Stuck to it and if you're anything like most carvers, you are all over the place when you grind. It is worth a few bucks to have a dial speed control like GMAN does.

Cool! Thanks Benz and others... I have a Harbor Freight just around the corner, so I'm going there today to get a dial speed control for my angle grinder. I'm still afraid of that thing so maybe some 'control' over it will help!

benz, is this what you're talking about?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060

PDrake, Harbor Freight has a router speed control for 12.95. The faceplate is different than the one in your link. It is numbered 1-10 and works like a charm. I say pick it up. It will take your carving to a new level.

Pdrake, that one you have looks Identical to mine I have had for at least 15 years and it is going strong. I'm sure the HF 12$ one works just as well.

I bought one of these at HF for $12.99 last week. It works very well. I don't think it's UL approved though.

THis is about the Flex shaft carvers and How to Hold/ mount/hang them for use. If you are on a bench, the tall adjustable hangar works well attatched to the bench, but what do you do when not at the bench?? I have been asked the question more than a few times and I have not, until now , thought of Anything to use to keep it from rolling off the table or log or whatever place you are carving.

I just remembered an Old photographers trick and I think it will work well. I'm going to make a sand-bag large enough for the flex-shaft motor to sit in securely. I think it will be portable enough and it willbe small enough to get the job done whereever I want it to be placed.

On another note, I have the new Foredom recip handpiece that I got for Christmas,, in fact I have 2 of them and they have almost become useless. I noticed that everytime I opened the thing up, the cam gears were very dry. What seems to be happening is that they are wearing prepaturely. Also I believe the spring is not powerful enough and needs to be updated. Foredom sent a pick-up order to UPS who came by today to get both my handpieces. They are sending me 2 replacements which should arrive any day.
SO, If you have the foredom,and it has lost its power, here is their E-Mail: [email protected] .
Send them a note about your #50C, Recip Handpiece explaining what is happening. You may want to open it up (instructions on the user sheet that came with it) and make sure it has the proper amount of grease,(also in the notes). They should send you a replacement or at least the repalcement cams and bearings.

Thats it for today.

wow, Benz, thanks for the heads up on the #50C. I dont use it anywhere near as much as you do, but i will keep a vigil eye on the grease now that you told us about it. Good to know they are taking care of you.

I am about to buy a foredom type rotary with handpeice set up,and I am confused by how many different types there are.
i have never used one,but I want to get a good one.
Could any of you guys tell me a specific model you would choose?
In otherwords.Benzart if you were going to buy one tomorrow and wanted a good all around machine for the stuff you do,which one would you choose?
I need details like length of cable to handpeice,type of hand peice,acceseries etc.
I don't mind paying extra for a particularly nice unit,but am bewildered by the many types.
If you guys help me,I promise to remember you when I'm rich and famous.

Hey Eric, Welcome to TC.
You are right about too many to choose. If you want the best flaxshaft, then getTHIS One . If you are going to get a reciprocating handpiece to go with it, I'm torn between the Foredom #50 and the Weecher model also found here in Treeline.
Hope this helps and Enjoy your tools.

On 2006-02-28 11:39, Benzart wrote:
I'm going to make a sand-bag large enough for the flex-shaft motor to sit in securely. I think it will be portable enough and it willbe small enough to get the job done whereever I want it to be placed.

Hey Ben! Is there any danger of covering up vents when laying the tool down into the sandbag? That might be bad ... mine gets pretty hot just hanging up from the basement rafters while in use...

Thanks Ben. I just ordered their catalog.
I wanted to add, have you Benzie, considered teaching and traveling this great country to pass on your helpful tricks and techniques to the rest of us? You could make a good living, see the country AND help learned us.
I've scheduled the Sacramento show this spring to see their product. The demos are the best way to see and learn and then buy. Considering we don't know what to buy or how it's used.
Dig?

[ Edited by: Jungle Trader 2006-03-10 07:58 ]

I may consider going to a few locations for some carving instruction. I will think about this and lets hear some input from other carvers. How would I do this thing? Ofcourse it would only take an hour or so to tell everything I know..

You could work for Treeline, The Woodcrafting Specialists. The website is a little confusing. It says "Visit us at our new location, (just down the street from our old location)", but it doesn't say where old or new is. Click on classes and it doesn't say where either.

Thanks Benzart,I guess I will get that one then.
A couple of related questions:
In a carving book I just read(carving driftwood), the author suggested that the longer the handpeice cable is,the most flexible/useable it is.
As I said,I have never touched one before,Is that something I should look into about that model,or should I just buy it as is.
I am left handed,so the reversing feature will really be handy.
Another thing I've noticed is that alot of other units have bigger motors.Is bigger better?Or is it necessary to spin these little bits?
I always thought that the reciprocating feature was just some lame gimmick,but from what I'm reading,it sounds like you guys like them.Maybe I will get a handpeice and a set of flexcut bits also.

Eric, you will find that as usual, More power IS Better. There will be times when you will newed more As far as the shaft being Flexible, there are some that are very flexible, but they also break more readily. Foredom makes some handpieces with a Flex-Spring on the end that really helps. They also make a Flex spring extender that you would put on the end of your shaft and the handpiece connects to it for a more comfortable carving session. Major drawback it its cost of $65.00.
Wecheer makes one seenHere for $17.95. Bargain! Get it!I have one and it is GREAT Or you can get it Directly from Wecheer for $16.00 here: "You may purchase from us directly.
WE26577 Duplex Extender @US$16.00
Shipping fee US$5.00
Total US$21.00

Please mail a check (pay to Yen-Hui Lai) to:
Yen-Hui Lai
8160 Minler Rd.
Richmond, BC
Canada V7C 3T7
"

On using the flexshaft left-handed, if you use the reverse motor, amke sure you are using a bit that cuts both ways, AND the Recip carver Must only go in the Forward direction.
Hope all this helps.

OK,After a google session I have found out that foredom makes 1/4 and 1/3rd horsepower units which don't go in reverse,but have alot more power than the one in Benzarts link.
So now my quandry is:
Twice as much power vs reverse capibility.Which is a better choice??
How benificial is reverse?
I would like to be able to rough out with it,but don't want to lose detail capability.
I also noticed foredom has a benchtop mounting bracket instead of the tall pole thing.It seems like that would do the job of the sandbag set up.I wonder if the weecher reciprocating handpeice will last longer than the Foredom with the problem with grease?I guess with the foredom,it would be prudent to open it up and grease it upon receiving it.
Do the 2 brands interchange?
I have the money burning a hole in my pocket,but I'm trying to think this out before buying one of them.

Personally I believe the reverse would be Great. I Don't have it but Need it on Many occasions. When you are working on a carving with a Carbide rough-out bit on one side of the carving you are working against the grain and to have the ability to reverse the cut would work Magic. Get the reversable. The extra power is not a big deal. The wecheer and Foredom use all the same chisels and the Wecheer has more power. You should Not use Either for roughing out, only for detail, so it's a toss-up. I now have one of each which works well for me. All the Flexcut power chisels work with either. I would lean toward the Wecheer, and Treeline is Very generous with their replacement policy, so neither would give you much long term grief. Also if you order the flexcut chisels , call the order in and ask for the discount if ordering 5 or more pieces. Don't forget to tell them I sent you.

OK youv'e sold me!I will get the reversable one.Thanks alot for the help!

Hey Ben,

I looked thru this list and a few others and cannot find any references to scorps. While working on my palm tree, I think I have a couple of applications for scorps - you know - under cuts against the grain, or even with the grain for that matter, which might be accomplished easier with a scorp.

Can you comment on these tools? Do you use them? Is there always another way to dig out from under, without a scorp? I have two particular details in that dumb palm tree that would seem to lend themselves to a couple of flexcut scorps, and I'm wondering if I should buy them. Since I quit smoking, the wahine would not object to me buying a couple more tools, instead of a carton of marlboros. What do you think?

Thanks,

Your humble student,

TG

[ Edited by: tikigap 2006-06-08 05:57 ]

sometimes scorpions nest in palm trees.

Scorps are used for hollowing out bouls mostly and are not great for much more. For wood carving they don't add much to your ability. If you were making dougout canoes from large display size to the real thing. Adzes are normaly used there but a scorp Could come in handy. If you want one, you can find eniugh uses for it to justify it's existence, but you would not use it very much.
Hope that helps

That helps a lot - thanks!

Hey Benzart, you have a mighty fine collection of tools! I am new to TC but have been carving off and on for about 10 years. I like the idea of building up my tool chest with some power carvers and the like. I went over the tool advice you gave and will check out whats available. Since I have never used a power carver, can someone let me know how well they rough out large amounts off wood. The more help the betta!

Thanks,
Beachnik

Been hearing a little about spoke shaves and weaponry lately, can someone explain what a spokeshave is and how it works? Is it similar to a plane?

it's like a mini draw knife/jack plane. they make sharp scrapers that do kind of the same thing, but these have handles and holders for a constant angle.

i think. i've never used one, but it's on the "to get" list.

You got it right. It is a Curved mini plane with handles on both sides. Excellent for paring down a board for making clubs. If you cut the club out on the bandsaw, you would use the spokeshave to round the corners and smoothe the edges.

Beachnik, the power carvers are mostly for detail, but the Automach, which bolts onto youtr angle grinder can do a lot of roughing out.
Imagine a little jackhammer on the end of your chisel pushing the chisel thru the wood without a mallet or without much effort. You have the Reciprocating carver!

Here I've taken a pic of some tools I like to use.
Believe it or not the Dremel at the top of the screen gets more use sharpening the chisels than cutting wood. But the key-less chuck is a must for me.
Below the red dremel box is a spoke shave. Its old but sharp and trusty. Next to it on top of some Koa molding I found is a micrometer/caliper, it comes in handy.
The Axe is more for effect. I tried the Crazy Al approach to hacking a log and found the hatchet is best used in stripping the bark from a log only.
Ah the handy Saw is under it, no explanation needed, just elbow grease. I've found for finer cuts the little coping saw or the Japanese saw(not pictured) works best for me.
the 1 inch flat chisel gets the most use on the larger stuff while the x-actos to the left of the little, monkeypod guy work great on small stuff.

and last but not least the 4 in 1 hand rasp/file and the emery boards/finger nail files. I got the finger nail file idea from Ben and they work great.

Thanks