JOHN-O's Las Vegas (& Honolulu pg 8) Thread

Ok so this really isn't a tiki guide. Frankly (Frankie, ha, ha) there isn't enough tiki left in Las Vegas for such a guide. You'd need a time machine to visit the Aku-Aku in 1960 for classic tiki, or even the Taboo Cove in 2001 for neo tiki. Both RIP. Sure there's the new Trader Vic's, but I think it's pretty lame and the drinks are pretty bad. Skip it. (UPDATE - since closed)

So if you're into tiki, what else do you like? If you're like me, you love classic and kitschy mid-century design, Kennedy-era history and culture, Film Noir, Hawaiiana, Surf Music (Dick Dale not Beach Boys), and 1st and 2nd generation Punk Rock (1976-1984). I also love Las Vegas, both for the action (gambling) as well as the general surreal nature of the place. Maybe you do too.

Las Vegas also has the most interesting history of an American city which it just loves to blow up. Gone are classic places like the Sands, Desert Inn, Stardust, Dunes, and Frontier (well actually I don't miss that one). Sure the Flamingo, Sahara, Riviera, and Tropicana still exist, but only in name. The original casino areas and bungalows have been demolished or remodeled away. So where do you go if you're looking for some old-school Las Vegas soul to go with your Frankie's tiki drink. Read on. And remember even if Frankie's is open 24 hours a day that doesn't mean you have to spend your whole vacation there.

Where to stay.

1. On the strip, there's Caesars Place (opened 1966). Caesars is the only old-school hotel on the strip which still maintains a high reputation. All of the aforementioned 1950's places are shells of their former selves. This also applies to Caesars to some extent. In order to keep up with the Venetians and the Bellagios, Caesars remodeled away most of their classic mafia-style decor. I remember the original towers had a soft blue/green lighting glowing through metal screens but they got rid of that. The rooms used to have round beds with mirrors on the ceilings and the showers were in the main living area (not in the bathroom). Those rooms are all gone. So what's still left? Well the circular Palace casino is still intact under the original domed chandelier. If you squint your eyes, you can still imagine it's 1966 and Frank Sinatra is walking by. Also amazingly Cleopatra's Barge is still there. It's an early 1970's disco on an actual barge "floating" on water. Caesars still gets points because it's Caesars but it's probably overpriced for what you get now.

2. Better on the strip (and I know many of you will be horrified) is Circus Circus (1968). Why does Circus Circus still have old-school soul? Because for over 40 years, it's remained true to its seedy low-roller circus theme. If you look at a picture of CC now compared to when it opened in 1968, it's still essentially a concrete circus tent. Also CC is iconic. No other Vegas casino has had the same pop culture exposure. Please refer to "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas" (the book) or "Diamonds are Forever" (the movie). Hey the place was good enough for Dr. Gonzo and James Bond. Places of interest include the classic Horse-A-Round Bar that Hunter Thompson rode while high on drugs. I'm not sure if the bar still rotates since it's been broken the last couple of times I've been there. (UPDATE - Now a snack stand?) The Steak House at CC is also considered one of the best (if not best value) places to get a steak in a classic old-school environment. Note - if you don't like swarms of screaming children then stay away. But isn't that what the circus is supposed to be like anyway?

3. Ground-zero for historic Las Vegas soul, in my opinion, is Downtown. This is also very close to where Frankie's is located, making for an inexpensive cab ride.

My favorite place to stay in downtown is the El Cortez (1941). Bugsy Siegel flipped this place to finance the Flamingo in 1947 and its outer facade is exactly the same today as when it had a minor remodel in the late 1940's. The El Cortez used to have a horrible reputation as a smokey dirty low-roller place but a recent refurbishment has really turned the place around. The Tower room I recently stayed in was large, clean, comfortable and priced right at under $100 a night. The clientele tends to be value conscious locals and retirees but I did notice a good number of rockabilly and indie club kids drinking there on weekend nights. This is due to the emerging club and bar scene along East Fremont where the El Cortez is located.

4. Another great downtown place is the Golden Gate casino (1955). Actually the building dates back to 1906 when it was just a hotel. This makes it one of the oldest buildings in Las Vegas. You can just smell the history in this place (no really you can, this place smells). Don't stay here but get the classic 99-cent (which I think is now $2.00) shrimp cocktail. The coffee shop here is also one of the better places downtown to eat.

Where to Drink (This also includes the off-beat as well as old-school/historic).

1. Frankie's Tiki Room - Duh. Ok, so after you've had your fill of rum-based drinks what-s next to explore. I would recommend the following:

2. Atomic Liquors - This place opened in 1952 and is supposed to be the oldest licensed bar in Las Vegas. The Rat Pack used to drink here after shows. The place gets its name from when people used to watch atomic testing blasts from the roof. Some of the bar scenes in the movie "Casino" were filmed here. It's only two blocks east of the El Cortez on Fremont and 9th. It's a "long" two blocks though. The whole Fremont East area used to be (some say still is) the skid row of Vegas full of crime, drug addicts, and prostitution. Because of the recent renovation by the city, East Fremont is patrolled by private security up to the El Cortez. The area has been cleaned up considerably but still I would only walk to the Atomic during the day. Because of problems from several years past, the Atomic closes at 11pm. You have to be buzzed inside. I know it sounds like a cliche, but really this is the type of place Charles Bukowski would have hung out if he lived in Las Vegas. It's a colorful and interesting clientele to say the least. Busch beer is $1 can and mixed drinks and shots go for $3. Don't go there to have a laugh at the expense of those less fortunate than you, but go to experience another side of Vegas different from fake volcanoes, dancing fountains, and pirate shows. Hands downs, one of the most historic, real, and unique places in Vegas. I love it. 917 Fremont St. (UPDATE - Closed since 1/2011)

3. Downtown Cocktail Room - This is the polar opposite of Atomic Liquors. Opened in 2007, it's a sleek sophisticated ultra-lounge frequented primarily by hipster locals. This place is located on corner of Las Vegas Blvd and Fremont (the patrolled part). This makes it only 4 blocks from Atomic Liquors !! There is no visible door, you have to push on the left "wall" of where the black glass is. I guess that's the secret handshake. The drinks are pretty tasty and unique, based primarily on gin, vodka, and absinthe. These guys know their mixology. Try their signature drink, the Huntridge. It tastes like a Tiki-Ti Dr. Funk but with less of a licorice taste. I love this place too. Note, other hipster places nearby include the Beauty Bar and the Griffin. Fun for the club kids but branches also exist in LA. DCR is a Vegas original. 111 Las Vegas Boulevard.

4. Peppermill Fireside Lounge - Been around since the early 1970's. It's pretty well known so I'm sure you've heard of it. Image if a bar was based on the 1970's TV show "Love American Style". There are "make out" couches surrounding a flaming fire pit. Blue and purple neon adorn the walls. A very unique place. They're supposed to make a good Mai Tai and maybe some other tiki drinks but I've never tried them. 2985 Las Vegas Blvd (a few blocks south of the Riviera).

5. Double Down Saloon - Punk rock in Las Vegas. Signature drink is "Ass Juice" which tastes like grape cough syrup mixed with vodka. Try it. Avoid the Bacon Martini which I think is gross. Bar motto is "You Puke, You Clean". You know what really makes this place Punk rock? Bands play their own music nightly and there is never a cover charge. This is P. Moss's first bar before Frankie's. If Moss knows and respects Tiki culture the same way he does punk ethos then you know Frankie's is going to be spot on. 4640 Paradise Rd (a few blocks south of the Hard Rock Hotel).

6. Dino's Lounge - A local's bar (since 1960) with the motto "Last Neighborhood Bar in Las Vegas" as part of its neon sign. Noteworthy for its karaoke nights. What I really like about this place is that it's part of a "golden triangle" midway between Downtown and the main part of the Strip. The 1st point of the triangle is Dino's. The 2nd point of the triangle is the infamous Olympic Garden strip club across the street (beware these greedy girls will empty your wallet faster than a cold craps table). The 3rd point is White Cross Drugs (1964) which is a few blocks south of Dino's. This historic drug store (which used to be located Downtown where the Four Queens Hotel now sits) houses a 24-hour diner that's popular among taxi drivers and local club kids. Vegas locals would argue Luv-it Frozen Custard located around the block from Olympic Garden should be a 4th point making it a "golden square". Sorry I don't eat sweet stuff but the place does seem to draw a cult following.

How to enjoy the "golden triangle"? You can start out your night by downing some shots and singing your favorite Don Ho or Frank Sinatra song, walk across the street and get a really nasty lap dance, and then walk across the street again to soak up the booze with good greasy diner food inside a drug store. And because this is Las Vegas, you can do it all at 4:00 in the morning (but please be careful since this neighborhood can get dicey). Dino's is located at 1516 Las Vegas Blvd.

7. Champagnes - Another fun dive bar popular with the locals. This dark place is decorated with gold and red velvet bordello wallpaper and Marilyn Monroe portraits. Their jukebox has an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary hits. I think it opened in the early 1990's but it vibes much older. I wouldn't go out of my way for a visit (unlike the aforementioned bars) but it's a cool place to pop in for a few last drinks on the way to the airport from downtown. 3557 Maryland Parkway (across from the Boulevard Mall).

PART II

If you enjoyed the first part of this post, here's some additional information you might like. Obviously this has nothing to do with Tiki, but if you appreciate Tiki for its mid-century appeal then you might find the following facts and observations interesting when visiting Vegas.

When I referred to the existing Strip hotels from the 1950's I pointed out that most of the original architecture had been demolished or remodeled away. The following are the small exceptions. I believe it's accurate but please correct me if you have any first-hand knowledge.

1. Sahara - The coffee shop is original from 1952. I think that makes it the oldest on-going operation on the strip. (UPDATE - The entire hotel closed in 2011).

2. Riviera - The first nine stories of the Mediterranean Tower are original from 1955 but obviously the rooms have been remodeled.

3. Tropicana - The low-rise Garden Wing rooms surrounding the pool are original from 1957. They're slated for destruction if any further development on the property is done. Stay there while you can but be warned they're very basic.

4. Flamingo - Sadly no exceptions, unless someone unearths the secret getaway tunnels that Bugsy Siegel built under the hotel in 1947.

With regards to Downtown, I noted the El Cortez and the Golden Gate for their old-school significance. Here are my comments on some other places.

1. Golden Nugget - The Good: Hands down it's the most posh place to stay downtown and is fantastic value when compared to the high-end strip hotels. The Bad: All of the cool architecture from the 1940's and 1950's has been removed. This includes the iconic old sign which used to be on top of the building as well as the large "GOLDEN NUGGET" lettering which ran along the sides. I guess former owner Steve Wynn thought it was a good idea during the 1980's to update the place but man did the original exterior look old-school cool.

2. Binon's - I wish I could say the Horseshoe but Harrah's owns the rights to that name after it bought and sold the place in 2004. Harrah's also stole the World Series of Poker and moved it to the Rio. The biggest physical change is when they removed the neon "HORSESHOE" lettering from the outside facade and replaced it with just the "BINON'S".

The Horseshoe was opened in 1951 by Texas bootlegger Benny Binion and it earned the reputation in Vegas for "stone cold gambling". The Horseshoe offered the best odds in town and would take on any size wager as long as it was your first. In 1980, a single craps bet of $777,000 was made on the "don't pass" line (it won). Even Caesars Palace wouldn't take that level of action. The Horseshoe was also known for cowboy justice being inflicted on cheats, hotel burglars, and petty thieves. In 1979, an angry customer who accused the house of cheating him was later found shot point-blank in the head. The gun was found in the casino vault. Because there were no witnesses, charges were never pressed !! After Benny Binion died in 1989, his children drove the Horseshoe into financial ruin. Especially sensational was son Ted Binion's 1998 drug overdose death attributed to his scheming girlfriend (who he met dancing at Cheetahs strip club). Two days later, the girlfriend's secret lover was found digging up Ted's buried treasure of $7M in silver bars. You just don't get this type of history at places like the Wynn or Venetian. You can still get a good steak (and a great view) in the penthouse steakhouse (even though they don't come from the family ranch anymore).

3. California Hotel & Main St. Station - Both casino hotels are connected by an enclosed bridge and are owned by Boyd Gaming that targets the Hawaiian market. People fly the 5 hours from Hawaii, arrive at the Cal, change into their Hawaii attire of tank tops, shorts and flip-flops, eat the same local "grinds" as at home, and for an average 5-day stay, NEVER leave the property !!

Both are fun places to wear your Aloha shirt and roll the bones with the visiting "brahs" and "sistahs". These island locals are such crazy crapshooters that the Cal has a "Golden Arm" award for those who hold the dice for over an hour. Also check out Main St. Station, they have 20x odds, the best in town !!

The Hawaiian food in these places is pretty good, especially the cafe in the upstairs mall.

Are there any good Mai Tais or Zombies to be found here? The answer is NO.

Also here's another recommendation for those who want to go off the beaten path. This is certainly true if you're going to visit Frankie's. (I doubt that many cab drivers are going to know where it's located unless you use the University Medical Center as a reference).

One place in Vegas that's fun to explore from a culinary standpoint is the Las Vegas Chinatown. Ever wonder where those Chinese, Korean, Filipino, or Vietnamese dealers eat after their shifts? They come here. Tasty Chinese seafood and dim sum, Korean BBQ, Filipino adobo stew, and Vietnamese pho noodles are located within these blocks. Now I know that visitors from places like Los Angeles or San Francisco might not find this a big deal, but for those who don't get a chance to eat authentic Asian cuisine in their home towns will find it all here on Spring Mountain Road (Just north of the Palms hotel and west of TI). Also the food is really inexpensive when compared to the restaurants in the mid to high-end casino hotels. You can start your search where it all began: http://www.lvchinatown.com or you can just chat up your Asian blackjack dealer and ask what she recommends.

PART III

Ok, I finally made it to these places.

1. Huntridge Tavern - After Atomic Liquors, this might be the next oldest bar in Las Vegas. It's been at its current location since 1962, but I think it may have originally opened in the 1950's (which would make it pre-date Dino's Lounge). The bar is part of a business which also includes a pharmacy and a lunch counter. I guess this model was common in the 1950's and 60's and the Huntridge is notable for being one of the few remaining examples.

The lunch counter was closed in the last year but is scheduled to reopen in Jan 2009 (hours from 7am-2pm). This area of the building is a cool snapshot of the early 1960's with its avocado colored walls and bright red vinyl stools. As for the tavern, its grim entrance opens into a classic dive bar space with Christmas lights and promotional beer signs adorning wood-paneled walls. The clientele is appropriately weathered and Runyonesque, enjoying $1 drafts of beer.

Not as significant as Atomic Liquors with its Bar #1/Rat Pack/Mondo Atomic/classic neon sign history but essential if you want to be a Las Vegas dive bar completist. 1122 E. Charleston Blvd (corner of Maryland Pkwy).

2. Golden Steer - Opened in 1958, it's the oldest steakhouse in Las Vegas. Red meat the way Frank and Sammy enjoyed it (Elvis too). They also claim that Tony "the Ant" Spilotro was a customer as well. Joe Pesci's character in the movie "Casino" was based on this guy. Hey if the food was good enough for a psychopathic mobster then it's good enough for me too. The place probably hasn't changed in 50 years with its dark elegant space, red leather booths, tuxedo-clad waiters (who look like Sopranos extras), and Dino crooning in the background. The food is pricey but good. I like that it's located in a dumpy mini-mall. I rate it 5 golden steers. 308 W. Sahara Ave.

3. Cheetahs - 2112 Western Ave. This strip club is notable for the following reasons:

• It was the location for "Showgirls". Now I know this movie has the reputation of being one of the worst films ever made, but I thought Elizabeth "Saved by the Bell" Berkley did some great full-frontal, uh acting in it.

• This is the real life place where Ted Binion met the femme fatale who led to his untimely death (see my review above on Binion's casino).

• It has the most extensive collection of Edgar Leeteg art that I've ever seen. (OK, I made that up but why admire a black-velvet painting of a topless wahine when you can have the real life inspiration sitting in your lap?)

4. Frankie's Tiki Room - At last. Actually I'm a snob for classic original Tiki, but that's easy for me to say since I live 30 minutes from Tiki-Ti, can walk to the Galley in Santa Monica (since 1934, the greatest Tiki bar that has no tikis) and went to high school across the street from the Bahooka. For me with neo-Tiki, if you don't have the old-school history then it has to be all about the cocktails. I don't care how many tikis you have if you're serving cheap rum mixed with Hawaiian Punch.

So how does Frankie's Tiki Room measure up?

Let's start with those cocktails. I tasted 5 and they were all great !! The drink menu features 5 classic drinks along with 15 new concoctions. The new drinks have very good descriptions as well as potency ratings measured in skulls. Very helpful. (This is in stark contrast to the Tiki-Ti drink menu. For newcomers, that menu might as well be written in Chinese. You guys know what I'm talking about.) Some of the new concoctions have an ingredient not usually associated with classic tiki - energy drinks. Is this tiki blasphemy or an evolution of the culture? I dunno but the "Green Gasser" that I tried was especially tasty. My other favorite drink of the evening was the "Murky Lagoon". This isn't on the menu but bartender Allison (aka Rumshaker) can make one up for you. So how do the classics measure up? Well the Mai Tai that I had was very good. I was planning on a 2nd visit for the weekend to try the Zombie and Navy Grog, but I got busy with a hot craps table at the El Cortez. (What about the mugs? Sorry, I don't do mugs. I'd rather use the money to buy another cocktail).

Cocktails - check, so what about the rest?

Well to begin with, the original building (1964) does vibe history. Maybe not Tiki history, but old-school Vegas history especially with its Spanish arched entrance. I'd love to learn more about the place when it was just plain old Frankie's. Maybe this is where the "black book" mobsters met in the 1960's when they were banned from entering the strip casinos.

The location is off the beaten path. It's not in an area where a casual tourist might stumble across it, ensuring that those who visit have targeted it as a specific destination (unless they've escaped from the hospital next door). This is a good thing. Also in Vegas, if you're sitting on too valuable a piece of real estate then chances are you will be blown up or reinvented. Look at the fate of Taboo Cove at the Venetian and the Trader Vic's next to Planet Hollywood (even though few will miss it).

So what does the interior look like? By now most of you have seen the great photos already posted on this site. While all of the individual pieces (tikis, paintings, blowfish lamps, etc) are great, Frankie's really shines as a sum of all its parts. The entire room is an orchestrated work of Tiki art. From every angle that you look, there is a different perspective by which to appreciate the space. The only things that seem out of place in my opinion, are the two flat-screen TV's mounted behind the bar. OK so they're broadcasting some kind of kitschy retro video rather than ESPN, but still I think they take away from the overall mid-century mood.

What really rocks at Frankie's (and I mean that literally) is their soundtrack. While it's cool to have space-age bachelor pad music or Exotica playing in the background, Frankie's takes it up a notch with 60's-era garage rock and surf music (at least when I was there). Very groovy. It's not just vintage-era music, I heard them play the 5.6.7.8's (that cool Japanese girl band that played in "Kill Bill"). I thought to myself what other place sounds this good and then I remembered, the Double Down Saloon (also brought to you by P. Moss).

OK, so by now you can tell that Frankie's is a place made by tiki-philes for tiki-philes. The drinks, the decor, and the music are all spot on. Not only that, it's all uniquely available 24x7. So now for the first time in almost 30 years, genuine Tiki culture is again synonymous with Sin City. For a place like Las Vegas, it never should have gone away in the first place.

The Aku Aku moai in Sunset Park is smiling once again.

I hope you enjoyed this post.

JOHN-O

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2012-10-28 08:26 ]

Nice post, John-O. I'm sure I'll be referring to it in the future.... It's such a bummer that in Vegas, the land is worth way more than any bit of cultural history is. At least there's the Neon museum to keep it alive....

Also, it's a bummer how they have changed the Peppermill.... I mean, it's still kinda the same, but they put in all kinds of flat screen TVs all over the place. You can't escape them... Plus, from what I'm told, it's not the seedy hooker hangout that it once was. What's the world coming too? Definitely worth seeing though.

I'm looking forward to checking out the Atomic Liquors too... Never heard of it before.

Great post JOHN-O, welcome aboard.

Thanks John-O for a very interesting post. Even though I am currently a full time resident of LV and previously a frequent visitor, I learned quite a lot. I will definitely try some of your suggestions. Love this place.
Brady

Very informative john-O!
Mahalos!

Yes, a nicely written write-up, it ALMOST makes me want to go back to the the city that I am so dis...enchanted with that I vowed never to return (having stayed at the El Morocco, visited Don the Beachcomber at the Sahara, and having seen The MINT in the 80s)...

But what is that Italian place called that has the miniature liquor bottle collection? That seems like one of the few original places left, decor-wise.

But what is that Italian place called that has the miniature liquor bottle collection? That seems like one of the few original places left, decor-wise.

That would be Battista's Hole in the Wall.

PTD

Here's a website with some images of these places

http://www.latimemachines.com/new_page_9.htm

On 2008-12-01 20:41, Luckydesigns wrote:

I'm looking forward to checking out the Atomic Liquors too... Never heard of it before.

The Atomic Liquors sign is great. A word of caution-last call is 10:30 pm!!! Yes, before midnight-the bar closes at 11pm.

Great tips, but you're a month too late for me. I'll have to wait til next year. One note about the Peppermill. It's very kool, but also very couples. My buddy & I were definitely out of place. We had one drink & gone. If you're with a chick, it's one of the koolest places in town. I can't believe I'm already counting down to next November!

Why is last call before mid-night?? Is the place that seedy that they have to shut it down on the early side?

On 2008-12-03 23:36, Luckydesigns wrote:
Why is last call before mid-night?? Is the place that seedy that they have to shut it down on the early side?

The answer to that question is yes. This however is based on conditions from 5 years ago. I'm not sure why they aren't open 24x7 again.

Even with the recent renovation of East Fremont 2 blocks west, I would consider the immediate area around Atomic Liquors (and it's neighbor the Western Casino) still seedy. I would recommend a daytime visit.

Here's a link explaining the early closure:

http://www.lasvegassun.com/news/2003/nov/24/owners-of-bar-overrun-by-crime-fight-back

Actually that last link made Atomic Liquors seem pretty grim. Remember it's from 2003.

Here's a recent article from 5 months ago:

http://www.lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2008/07/31/eat_and_drink/crawl/iq_23015693.txt

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2008-12-21 08:48 ]

This might generate controversy since it is off-topic, in a way. I got a kick out of visiting the Star Trek experience at the Hilton in Las Vegas. On the other hand, Star Trek -- at least the original series -- was culturally Ur-sixties.

I think classic Star Trek definitely falls into the same 1960's kitsch category as does tiki. Remember the episode where the Enterprise visited the planet which based their society on tiki culture.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Apple_(Star_Trek)

However instead of going native, Capt. Kirk blew up the pagan idol and forced the locals to start wearing clothes. And if you think about it, tiki culture in the U.S. started to go downhill after that. Hmmm...

FYI, the Star Trek Experience closed down at the Hilton. There's talk about it reopening it at the Neonopolis complex in downtown. Wouldn't it would be cool to see fans wearing the original Star Trek uniforms and mini-skirts sipping Zombies at Frankie's? Throw in some Elvis impersonators and some shark-skin suited Swingers (Vegas baby, Vegas!!) and you have a scene that could only happen in Vegas.

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2008-12-21 08:46 ]

I love this thread, it makes me want to go back there and see them all. You have done a great job with all the info and the pictures. Is there any more old bars anywhere in this town from the 40's or 50's?

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2008-12-21 08:47 ]

Sorry I meant Las Vegas.

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-05-31 12:53 ]

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-05-31 12:54 ]

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-05-31 12:54 ]

Also if any of you wondered what pre-Tiki Frankie's was like, here's a review that I found in "Las Vegas CityLife" dated 12/1/2005. Apparently it was a pretty cool dive bar in it's former life.

"People sometimes fall down, go boom. Go to University Medical Center, get laid up. And then, craving a drink, show up at Frankie's next door (1712 W. Charleston Blvd., 387-9256), complete with -- no shit -- IV bags, hospital gowns and oxygen tanks. Bartender Diana leaves 'em dry, though. "You don't know what kind of medication they're on," she explains. Among the wounded would-be drinkers she's rebuffed is even, she says, a certain former casino mogul who'd recently exited the hospital after a nasty motorcycle crash. But if you're well, Frankie's is a healing place to drink, offering that certain kind of atmospheric hug and frayed-collar swank that comes from rotting in a free-standing bar. It's a womb thing, I guess. The bar's historic by Vegas standards (born 1964), and Diana says the south wall, an alarmingly gorgeous slab of paneled wood, somehow came from the Golden Nugget. The specials are limited to select shots that rotate regularly (tonight, $2 blasts of ... Black Cherry Smirnoff?), but Frankie's is nonetheless a fine place to toast your health. And if Diana asks you to roll up your sleeves, don't freak out -- she's just checking for hospital wristbands."

This gives me an idea. If you can make a great tiki bar out of a dive bar, why not make a cool dive bar out of a bad tiki bar? This can be done to the LV Trader Vic's. To begin with, you can get LA street gangs to start dealing crack out of the place at night to make it edgy and dangerous. During the day, you can bus in patrons from the East Fremont motels and the Western Casino to provide additional authentic color. Rename the place "Atomic Vic's" and market it as a little slice of old East Fremont on the Strip. Now that would be interesting.

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-05-31 12:56 ]

I can't wait to go back! Thanks for all the great info! I'll definitely be using your posts to plan my trip this year.

John O,

Great to meet you and talk. Looking forward to more of your Las Vegas guide. How about the story of the Aku Aku and The Stardust?There it sits forgotten by most locals and almost hidden now.
Cheers to P Moss, Ben and all the great artists for Frankie's.

Actually here's a pretty comprehensive history of the Stardust.

http://www.earlyvegas.com/stardust.html

http://www.earlyvegas.com/stardust_two.html

I understand there's a Tiki curse on the property unless the Aku Aku moai is returned back to it's original location. Don't believe me?, take a look at the shuttered half-completed Echelon Place. If Boyd Gaming ever wants to get that project off the ground again they better get a moving truck on down to Sunset Park !! (I think there was a Brady Bunch episode based on this).

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-01-05 22:26 ]

I am heading to Vegas next week for 4 days. I look forward to checking out a lot of places listed in your article. I will for sure be hitting Frankie's, it is on the "to do" list.

Thanks for this post! This is just the info I was hoping to find somewhere. I'll be going to Vegas for the first time next month.

great guide we will be visiting frankies and said aft formentionned bars this has takin a toll on are gambling budget and now have to find more money for drinkin and gambling !!!!see ya'll there mon 6pm feb 09

Here's some interesting articles I found on Las Vegas CityLife. They're written by this really cool writer, Lissa Townsend Rodgers. I'll bet she's a TC poster.

This first article was written in 2007 and focuses on the state of Las Vegas Tiki (pre-Frankie's).

http://www.lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2007/06/21/eats_and_drinks/crawl/iq_15017121.txt

This next article is her review on Frankie's.

http://www.lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2008/12/11/eat_and_drink/crawl/iq_25647690.txt

Here's her article on Hunter Thompson's Vegas which includes my beloved Circus Circus.

http://www.lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2008/03/06/eats_and_drinks/crawl/iq_20122592.txt

Here's her article on several of the LV bars I listed in my original post.

http://www.lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2006/11/10/eats_and_drinks/crawl/iq_10681635.txt

Enjoy.

I couldn't have described Las Vegas any better than this thread. Good JOB!

Time to bump up my original post in anticipation of Viva Las Vegas.

http://www.tikicentral.com/viewtopic.php?topic=30590&forum=1&22

So you might ask yourself "Which is the coolest place in Vegas?" I'll tell you one thing, it's not Pure or Tao so don't waste your time and money. I submit my opinionated top three from lowest to highest.

In third place we have a tie between the Double Down Saloon and Frankie's Tiki Room. Thank you P. Moss !!

In second place we have Atomic Liquors, the only remaining link to Vegas's Rat Pack and Mondo Atomic past. The seedy area ensures the hipsters won't ruin it.

Here's my first place choice as described in a recently written article.....

http://www.lasvegasweekly.com/news/2009/feb/19/merry-face-fear

Anyone disagree? :)

Hey JOHN-O, Thanks for the awesome post!! Just went through it from the beginning and you gave lot's of details. Easy to follow and just enough info. to make you do your own research on the specific places you talk about.

Great job and perfect for me as we will be down for Viva and will squeeze some of these places in. Some, for sure, I wouldn't have checked out if it wasn't for your post. Thanks again!
Atomic Liquor...are you kiddin me?? We will be there, up on the roof, waiting for the next bomb!!

Mahalo, TabooDan

More Las Vegas fun from Lissa Townsend Rodgers.

http://lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2009/05/01/eat_and_drink/crawl/iq_28398729.txt

This time the topic is noir and Las Vegas, two of my favorite subjects. I'm not sure about the "Hard Hat Lounge" though since it's located smack dab in the Naked City, one of Vegas's sketchiest neighborhoods. You might want to proceed with caution on that one.

Actually I just got back from Vegas last weekend. Here's my trip report.

1. Had drinks at Atomic Liquors and Dino's Lounge. Did not make it to Frankie's this time out. Sorry, neo-tiki takes a back seat to historic dive bars for me.

2. Rolled 6 consecutive points at the craps table at the Palms !! Later a drunken club kid in a tight black dress threw up strawberry margarita (from what I could tell) in front of me in the cab line.

3. Saw a fight break out in the middle of Binion's casino. What happens when a drunken white trash vagrant uses a racial expletive towards a corn-rowed low pants hanging gang-banger type person? I'll tell you - the fists start flying. Security sure took their sweet time to break it up.

4. Missed the Danny Gans show again. :( Now I'll never have that chance. I made the same mistake when I kept putting off seeing Don Ho in all my countless trips to Oahu.

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-05-04 16:56 ]

Vegas for the most part hasn't been cool in years. Once the strip became this grotesque urbanized mall full of steroid sized Euro trash casino-hotel towers,
the strip was done. All the cool places started disappearing,the land was bought up by lowlifes like Wynn & other corporations. Quickly beauties like the La Concha, The Sands, Desert Inn (was there every a more beautiful hotel in Vegas? doubtful) were destroyed. Luckily a scene is starting to develop downtown, meanwhile the M Resort is the best looking new hotel in Vegas since the Desert Inn went away. The real creativity will be way off the strip in the future, as someone will finally decide to build hotel casinos which compliment the desert environment again, instead of these faux Disney like designs built for mass market mooches.

The Las Vegas Zombie Squad....

http://www.lasvegasweekly.com/blogs/nocturnal-admissions/2009/may/03/re-animated-corpses-invade-vegas-pub-good-cause/

I think they took over the wrong bar. Zombies should drink Zombies. And we all know the best place for that.

On 2009-05-02 12:48, FrankieGillette wrote:
Vegas for the most part hasn't been cool in years. Once the strip became this grotesque urbanized mall full of steroid sized Euro trash casino-hotel towers,
the strip was done. All the cool places started disappearing,the land was bought up by lowlifes like Wynn & other corporations. Quickly beauties like the La Concha, The Sands, Desert Inn (was there every a more beautiful hotel in Vegas? doubtful) were destroyed. Luckily a scene is starting to develop downtown, meanwhile the M Resort is the best looking new hotel in Vegas since the Desert Inn went away. The real creativity will be way off the strip in the future, as someone will finally decide to build hotel casinos which compliment the desert environment again, instead of these faux Disney like designs built for mass market mooches.

Hey Frankie G, when I first read your post I was Pi$$ed, (I always get angry when someone bashes L.V.) but after I thought about it for awhile, I had to admit you do have some valid points. Sure, Vegas may not be as cool as it used to be there is still a lot of fun here to be had. And as for those old places you mentioned (D.I. La Concha, Sands), if you every visited them in the later years you would see in what sad shape they were in. Depressing. Something had to be done. I'm not sure what replaced them is appropriate but Vegas has to evolve to survive and of course not everyone will like the outcome. The M Resort is a great new addition.

Anyway, there is still a lot of fun stuff to do and see here and John-O has some really great tips. Although I miss the old Las Vegas, I do think there is plenty of coolness here, but it's a little different than it used to be.
I wouldn't want to live anywhere else.

Las Vegas through the decades - COOL or UNCOOL ?

1945-1950's - Pictures of the first strip resorts (Flamingo, Desert Inn, Sands, etc) display hip architecture very much in harmony with the desert setting. Think Palm Springs, Miami, or Havana Modern. Very cool. Also the nightclub buzz of L.A.'s Sunset Strip migrates here. Very cool. Lounge acts like Louis Prima and Keely Smith are free for the price of a cocktail. Very cool. During this time however, Las Vegas is the "Mississippi of the West" where Jim Crow is in effect. Very uncool. Overall rating for the first decade and a half - COOL (Unless you happened to be Lena Horne or Nat King Cole. They are not allowed to sleep in the hotels they perform in.)

1960's - Las Vegas hits it's peak of cool between 1960-1965 with the Rat Pack performing and hanging out at the Sands Hotel. Also during this time, the Aku Aku opens at the Stardust hotel (Tiki + Mondo Atomic = Very cool). The latter part of the decade however gives rise to the counter-culture. If you're under 30, Jimi, Janis, and Jim are cool. Frankie, Dino, and Sammy are not. Overall decade rating - COOL, but this is the beginning of the slide.

1970's - Las Vegas becomes the place where "old people" and "the Man" go for vacation. Also the corporations take over from organized crime. The gangsters understood cool but the MBA's and accountants do not. The bean counters cut back to increase the bottom line on everything which takes a toll on customer service and employee morale. Overall decade rating - UNCOOL.

1980's - The bad from the 1970's just gets worse. Las Vegas is in a major rut. Overall decade rating - UNCOOL.

1990's - The birth of the "New Las Vegas" is jump started by Steve Wynn's Mirage, the first major resort in over 15 years. Lot's of new Disney-style resorts come on-line during this period. Also the decade of "Vegas is for Families". What a stupid idea. Circus Circus is already the perfect place for parents to abandon their kids while they gamble away their college educations. Also Las Vegas becomes the new Detroit where service-industry workers can live the middle-class dream. Overall decade rating - UNCOOL (but still impressive for how much the city and economy grow.)

2000's - Some of the sin comes back to Sin City with "What Happens in Vegas, Stays in Vegas". The nightclub boom makes Las Vegas a hot destination among the club kids and urban hipsters. OK, so all the young girls dress more like hookers and the guys all wear the same uniform of untucked striped long-sleeve shirt, over-priced designer jeans, and black leather shoes but at least it's better than wife-beaters, cargo shorts, tennis shoes, and mullets. Go to a place like the Palms, Hard Rock, or Mandalay Bay on a weekend night and you'll feel a young energetic buzz which didn't exist 15 years ago. Yeah I know a lot of the club guys act like privileged douche bags but they're probably just channeling Frankie who was an obnoxious bully when not performing in the Copa Room. Also all of the new resorts are focusing on modern elegance and luxury instead of the kitschy themes of the previous decade (although I'm not sure if this is cool or just boring.) One thing's for sure, there's lots of new upscale restaurants serving a variety of cuisine. Las Vegas becomes a Foodie destination (albeit an unoriginal one). Another interesting development is what's happening on East Fremont in downtown. It's still in its infancy and I hope it survives the economic downturn. Also with Frankie's Tiki Room and places like this opening - http://www.elcortezcabanasuites.com, the future looks bright for some old-school Vegas fun.

Overall decade rating - COOL.

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-05-08 07:43 ]

While stayin at Binion's on Freemont last week I wandered down to check out the sweet Old School Neon Museum down at the East Freemont end

and stumbled on an old school style, new, Dark Bar the "Griffin". It was nice inside with low lights and dark paneling, cush seating with fireplaces friendly bar staff plus PBR on tap.

Plus alittle Tiki style at a place called Mickie Finn's on the east end.

[ Edited by: Beach Bum Scott 2009-05-07 22:09 ]

Nice pictures, Beach Bum Scott !! I'm glad you were able to make it past the canopy and explore Fremont East. The revival of this area is in a delicate state due to the down economy. It's up to people like TCers who appreciate mid-century and off-beat aesthetic to support the effort.

Cool that you stayed at Binion's. TLC Enterprises (who also owns the Four Queens) is really bringing this classic place back from the low-point when Harrah's had ownership. 10x craps and 3:2 blackjack are great reasons to gamble there. (Although I do wish they'd bring back the 100x).

That reminds me, although this last decade was a cool period for Las Vegas, there's one recent event which is not cool. That's 6:5 blackjack. This seems to be the norm now for the Strip and another reason to stay and play in Downtown. Besides, Downtown is the most convenient place to be when you're going to visit Frankie's.

So cool, it must be shared....

http://classiclasvegas.squarespace.com/classic-las-vegas-blog/2009/5/28/classic-las-vegas-neon-memories.html

http://classiclasvegas.squarespace.com/classic-las-vegas-blog/2009/5/27/classic-las-vegas-downtown-memories.html

Even though it has nothing to do with Tiki.

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-06-01 22:46 ]

More mid-century Las Vegas fun to go with your Frankie's Tiki drink.

Ever admire those motels with the cool vintage neon signs along the North Strip or East Fremont? (See my previous post.) I always have but figured the accommodations were sketchy if not outright dangerous. Heck, the Ambassador Motel on East Fremont (across from Atomic Liquors) became such a haven for drug dealing LA gang bangers that the city razed it.

One place that always caught my eye was the Tod Motor Motel (1962) right next door to Dino's Lounge (1960). Doing some research into the place, I've learned it was purchased by new owners a few years ago. They've kicked out the drug dealers, renovated the rooms, and allocated part of the property as a youth hostel.

So for any of you Tiki backpackers or budget conscious travelers looking for a groovy place convenient to Frankie's (originally 1964), you might want to check it out. The Tod is not safe walking distance to Frankie's, but it is walking distance to the 24-hour diner at White Cross Drugs (1964) and stumbling distance to Dino's.

1960-1964 was a interesting pop culture period in America with the Rat Pack, Camelot (JFK era), and the peak of Tiki. The Tod is another fine time machine to relive those days old-school style. (Me, I need a craps table so you'll still find me at the El Cortez.) :)

http://www.todlasvegas.com

http://www.lasvegassun.com/news/2007/mar/30/new-life-for-tod

http://www.lasvegasweekly.com/news/2008/may/22/hostel-environment

Even more mid-century neon fun in Las Vegas......

http://www.oldschoolla.com/vegas_neon__nighttime.htm

Here's my personal favorite:

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-06-07 15:30 ]

The new owners of the Tropicana Hotel & Casino have announced plans to bring the former "Tiffany of the Strip" back to its original glory. :)

http://www.lvrj.com/business/46897947.html

Built in 1957, the Trop was was styled on Havana Modern rather than the desert themes of the other major Strip properties. Its tulip-shaped fountain was a major south Strip landmark for over 20 years.

In later decades a tiki presence was added as two 35-foot Aku Aku gods were erected as part of the Trop's new tropical island theme. Also a large tiki mask, Kalanui the God of Money, was situated near the casino entrance. People would stop to touch the mask in hopes of having good luck. (Does anyone have any images to share ?)

None of this stuff exists anymore but here's some clips of the Spook Hunters in search of tiki ghosts there.

http://www.spookhunters.com/spookhunt/vegas/Tropicana/Videos/Tropicana1.htm

http://www.spookhunters.com/spookhunt/vegas/Tropicana/Videos/tikigirl.htm

The new owners plan to do the remodel with a South Beach Miami theme. Here's hoping they add some tikis to the mix again. I also hope they retain and refurbish the low-rise Garden Wing rooms from the original 1957 construction.

Long live the old-school !!

Based on my recent find of the "Tiki Archeology" DVD at Burbank's 8-Ball, I decided to make the drive out to Soap Plant in East Hollywood to see if any new Tiki/Mid-Century/Pop Culture books were out. If you're ever in the vicinity of Tiki-Ti, check this place out, it's in walking distance. It's like a Wal-Mart of pop culture and contains an art gallery showcasing the work of "low brow" artists (Shag, Coop, Mark Ryden, etc.) They have lots of tiki-related stuff. http://www.soapplant.com

Now usually I plan a visit to Tiki-Ti when making the drive out to the Eastside from SaMo, but this time I ventured further on Sunset towards Echo Park. (Actually "Eastside" is really east of the LA River which this is not, but that's the popular term these days). I first wanted to pay a visit to a bar steeped in Los Angeles neo-noir history, the Short Stop.

The Short Stop was a long-time hangout for the LAPD Rampart Division, but the police corruption scandals of the late 1990's made the place off limits. For those of you not familiar with the "Rampart Scandal", this is where officers of Rampart's CRASH (Community Resources Against Street Hoodlums) anti-gang unit were implicated in crimes like planting evidence, false arrests, stealing and dealing drugs, bank robbery, and carrying out hits for local gangs. If this sounds like the TV show "The Shield", that series was based on these events.

The Short Stop was purchased in the early 2000's by the lead singer of some popular alternative rock band (that I'm not familiar with). The Short Stop with its black bunker appearance still contains the wood gun lockers of the LAPD era, but is now a trendy watering hole for "hipsters" rapidly gentrifying this barrio area. Why should tiki fans care about this? Because with the Short Stop and all the other hipster bars of Silver Lake and Echo Park to drink at, that's hopefully less people waiting in line at Tiki-Ti. Also I'm thinking about doing a new post - "JOHN-O's Guide to the Eastside when Visiting Tiki-Ti". :)

Already buzzed from several G&T's at the Short Stop, I decided to bypass Tiki-Ti and go straight to Soap Plant. Checking out their tiki section, I saw nothing I haven't already seen before. The thing I did notice was what was missing. When was the last time you saw the "Book of Tiki" at any bookstore? With the neo-Tiki movement really picking up steam, this indispensable bible is now out of print. Afterward, I checked Amazon, and saw that "like new" copies are being sold by 3rd-parties for $170 each !! Anyone want to sell theirs ??

I did find one really cool book that was recently published (and the reason for posting on this thread). "Mid-Century Vegas, 1930s-1960s". This books presents a visual chronology of the original Las Vegas hotels & casinos using postcards from the era. Yes, I did a quick scan to see if I could find any pictures of the Aku Aku or Don the Beachcomber. Sadly no vintage tiki was to be found. Still a fun book showing a mid-century style that for the most no longer exists (just like tiki).

Afterward I had a chicken Mole burrito at Yuca's (2nd location) just down the street on Hollywood Blvd (east of Vermont).

Mmmm....

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-06-22 21:54 ]

Good stuff, John-o. I recommend you place the LA stuff in a new LA thread! I love city (or area) related travel (bar, restaurant) recommendations.ZAZZ!

On 2009-06-23 22:59, mrsmiley wrote:
Good stuff, John-o. I recommend you place the LA stuff in a new LA thread! I love city (or area) related travel (bar, restaurant) recommendations.ZAZZ!

Yup, been thinking about doing that. Thanks Mr. Smiley. BTW, I noticed you did a Yelp review on the Hard Hat Lounge. I guess you made it out of the "Naked City" alive so I'll have to check it out as well. :)

http://www.yelp.com/biz/the-hard-hat-lounge-las-vegas#hrid:BdAjjDavUkzN6Ioe7UKXBw

Based on your Yelp profile, I'm sure you miss Original Joe's as much as I do. I hope it reopens again. My friends in SF were always horrified when I chose that as my dinner pick. I didn't care, I loved the place.

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-06-24 22:32 ]

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-06-27 20:06 ]

This was kind of interesting.

Secrets of a Las Vegas Bartender........

http://www.lasvegasweekly.com/blogs/nocturnal-admissions/2009/jul/17/secrets-las-vegas-bartender/

Las Vegas Trip Report

This last weekend was spent cleaning up a rental unit with some fellow friends and investors. I did have a chance to check out some new places. Here's my reviews. (Smiley, I'll catch up with you in the future. Sorry but we were making up the itinerary hour by hour. I guess that's LV for you.)

1. Frankie's Tiki Room - This was my 2nd Vegas trip that I failed to pay a visit. I guess my TC account should be revoked over this major Tiki infraction.

2. Sam's Town - This is where we stayed since my "high-roller" buddy gets comped here. It's primarily a locals' casino without the flash and glitz of the Strip. One of the bars has Primo beer on tap, I've never seen that before. The most interesting thing was the free Mystic Falls Show featuring animatronic Tikis, shooting fountains, and laser lights. This was better than the Bellagio water show and the TI Pirate show combined !! The casino has 20x craps odds and $3 minimums. It's too bad it was on two of the coldest craps tables I've ever experienced (over 2 nights no less). I think those dice were loaded !!

3. Carluccio's Tivoli Gardens - This restaurant used to be owned by Liberace and is next door to his museum. I only had 10 minutes to see the museum before it closed. It's full of Liberace's furniture, cars, costumes, etc. Don't make fun of this place in front of the docents, they take it very seriously. Actually I think Liberace would make a great ironic hipster icon which would make this the coolest place in Vegas. The restaurant's interior still remains as Liberace designed it and is a wacky time machine back to the early 1970's. I didn't eat here but I'm told it's very popular with locals for its old-school Italian cuisine. Was Liberace into Tiki? I didn't see any.

3. Dispensary Lounge - This was a hard place to spot as it faces east as you're driving east on Tropicana Blvd. One of the coolest things about Vegas is the 24-hour bars. Here you could actually live in a bar and this place is one of the classics. The whole place vibes early 1970's with its brown carpeting (!!), spinning water wheel (!!!), and "super soul sounds of the seventies" playing in the background. What's really great about this place is the hamburger. This had to be one of the tastiest burgers I've ever had and at $3.95 with fries, definitely the best value. The cocktails are pretty cheap too. There were no Tikis to be found at this place either, I checked.

That's all.

[ Edited by: JOHN-O 2009-08-04 17:57 ]