Greetings! (re-discoverer of Tiki) ex-New England now in SoCal

Aloha!

Wow, what a fantastic journey of redisovery this has been for me of late. [This has turned out to be a lengthy post, and may not be at all of interest to you unless perhaps you grew up during the 70s and 80s in New England and/or have a remote interest in the "real" South Pacific/Hawai'i.]

It all started almost 30 years ago, when as a young boy growing up in Connecticut, I used to really enjoy the rare treat of heading to a "Polynesian/Chinese" restaurant on Farmington Avenue in West Hartford CT called "The South Seas".

It was very dark inside, with a jet black ceiling, and various "mock" petroglyph carvings, fake palm trees, and (probably real) bamboo everywhere, along with a working waterfall towards the back. The waiters wore red + black "Mao" style outfits. It served mainly "Polynesian" food with passingly Sino-American influences.

I'm sure my modern tastebuds would find the cuisine forgettable, but as a boy - I keenly anticipated the Pu-pu platter with its flaming little iron hibachi holding court at the centre of a large wooden bowl with many compartments of tasty goodies: the teriyaki beef skewers, the (overbreaded) fried shrimp, the grilled chicken wings (marinated in a 5-spice/soy concoction), the egg rolls (the huge old "retro" kind with red pork/shredded cabbage), and the sliced slabs of roast pork (with the red colour on the outside).

The whole experience was like a holiday to an imagined world of Hawai'i/South Pacific, and it was always a semi-magical occasion for my sister and me. I was very fortunate to go on a trip to Florida when I was 10, and we made a day trip to Disneyworld. I loved it of course, but I remember feeling really sad we couldn't afford to stay at the Polynesian Pavilion because I remember thinking it was so cool. That Tiki hotel/complex was as memorable to me as Space Mountain was. (EPCOT wasn't open yet.)

Alas, like all things, The South Seas restaurant didn't last. I'd last been there in the summer of 1984, when I'd taken a former computer camp student to lunch there to show him some of my former favourite spots from my own youth. My mother had taken a picture of us, but alas, it was outside in the parking lot rather than indoors (pity that). I think the restaurant closed within a couple of years of that - and like all things, we don't realise those little things that matter to us until they're gone.

It was replaced by one of the advancing vanguards of "New Chinese" restaurants featuring much more authentic food and higher quality dishes like Peking Duck, etc. The decor of course was completely gutted and made into a rather sterile "bright salmon" colour schemed "boutique" restaurant, which oddly dates more poorly than the old Tiki stuff seems to.

When I went back to CT to visit my mother, I'd still go to that place (it DID have much better food than the old South Seas), but the magic of the experience was completely gone.

It seems that the Tiki style of Polynesian/Chinese restaurants held on until about the late 1980s in New England, when they were pretty much swept away by the "Nouveau Chinese" places, which did offer better food, at the price of generally forgettable decor, despite their pretensions. Boston still has some old hold-outs, I think, like the Kowloon, etc. But I was saddened to see the loss of Kon-Tiki Ports in the Boston Sheraton (at the Prudential Center).

Time passes, and I "forget" about Tiki and how much I enjoyed retreating to its calm dark spaces.

I travel the world, live in Australia for about 7 years, spend some time on Hawai'i (Oahu for a week, and Hawai'i itself for about 3 weeks), New Zealand (undermentioned by Tiki/Polynesian lovers: think "Hawai'i meets Ireland" - with some really bad-ass "natives"), and Vanuatu (for about one week).

Hawai'i and New Zealand are great - but I found Vanuatu a bit sweet + sour. It was very "retro" in that the island uses diesel generators for electricity, and they are switched off at about 10:30PM. It's truly a wonderful experience to be without the constant light pollution of the modern world.

At the little "resort" (just a collection of cabins, an open-air "cabana" restaurant with wooden picnic-tables right on the beach halfway into the water), they set out lanterns on the dinner tables and each guest is meant to take one back to their room with them. The (unpaved) paths leading around the resort are lined with oil lanterns to help you find your way.

It's rather nice. The "sour"? Wickedly resistant malaria mosquitoes - the "medical" community in Vanuatu is careless with their drugs, and as a result the malaria there needs the latest and nastiest anti-malarial drugs available. I had to take Larium for two weeks prior to my visit, and:

1. It wasn't on the Australian subsidy list, so it cost a fortune $15-20/tablet - fortunately, you didn't need many, but it only came in packs of 4. (Four weeks' worth).

2. It had wicked side effects - my skin felt hyper-sensitive and tingly all over.

Other sours: it is a very poor place - I took some "native" transportation around to see the "real Vanuatu" - and it was basically a shanty/squalid place. I wasn't expecting "middle class suburbia" - but I was hoping to find some thing to partake of from their native culture. It was pretty much gone.

I did go to a traditional feast (which served real kava!) and had a rollicking good time with a bunch of other ANZUS-expats (two Brits, a Kiwi, and an Aussie). Kava is not going to be challenging the Mai Tai anytime soon - it's a rather bitter and "numbing" drink. Aside from experiencing for yourself at least once, I'd say it's forgettable.

Hawai'i has the "real deal" both the Polynesia as imagined by Tiki-lovers, and the real vestiges of what remains of Polynesian culture. I found it alot better on Hawai'i (The Big Island) than Oahu of course, the latter being closer to the "reimagined" Hawai'i as defined by the Tiki-Polynesian experience of the 1950s.

You can get the elaborate/dramatic luau experience which will be mostly the way you'd imagine it, but you can also find the "real" luaus that neighborhood communities put on for themselves (usually connected with "The Rotary Club" and other such "civic groups") in smaller settlements. These spring up without much notice or warning.

The friendliness and warmth of people at these "neighborhood" luaus must be experienced to be believed. The food is generally good - kalua pork and a pit-BBQ chicken are ubiquitous as is "poi" (usually day-old).

I remember stumbling across one small luau in progress after a few hours of driving to the western edge of Oahu, and the smell of pit-BBQ chicken made me insane with hunger. The people at the luau refused to accept any money and just dished me out all of the chicken I could eat. If I didn't have such a long drive to get back to my accomodations, I'd have stayed and drunk the night away with them. They were truly hospitable and friendly people.

Soo.... it's now 2004. I'm living in Southern California, I "discover" the joys of going to the cinema at the Arclight (why did it take me so long?!), and of course, browsing their wonderful gift/book-shoppe.

I spy a copy of Sven's Tiki Style book, and suddenly all of my "mummified memories" arise from the dust and I REMEMBER all of the delight and magic of Tiki and just how much I miss being able to find spaces like that to retreat to when the world is just too gray and stressful.

It's funny, because I had a sort of "triple-whammy" of Mid-Century reawakening that evening. I took in a film at the Cinedome [the huge theatre built for Cinerama format presentations which is a geodesic dome], browsed through Sven's book, and ended up later at the nearby Amoeba Records and somehow (subconscious mind working overtime?) ended up in the "Lounge" LPs section and saw the beautiful Martin Denny albums for sale. I found a 2-CD re-issue Quiet Village/Enchanted Sea and during my brief drive home (I live near Burbank), it was like being transported back in time.

I've since been to Palm Springs [not realising it was such a preserve of Modernism before I'd gone, truly!], and again stood in complete dismay at just how really amazing this period of American culture really was (I'm speaking about Modernist architecture and the surrounding styles which sprouted from it - the works of Eames, et al).

Anyway, this is long and rambling, but I thought maybe the excitement I felt at re-discovering the awesome majesty of Tiki would resonate with some of you.

Aloha Oe,
=Kukoae=

PS: I live a stone's throw from the "Tonga Hut" which I understand is pretty run-down and not really a Tiki bar, which I've yet to try. I hear great things about Tiki-Ti of course, and some good things about Lucky Tiki. Is the Purple Orchid worth the hike to Chevronville (El Segundo)?

Are there any other "must-visits" for a Tiki lover near Hollywood/Burbank?

Welcome to Tiki Central Kukoae - I think you'll find the natives hospitable here too! It's refreshing to read a first post by a new member that doesn't make a single reference to Ebay and what they've trying to sell! After reading your introduction I feel like I know you. Welcome to the ohana!

Fascinating story Kukoae! Welcome to Tiki Central. You'll find some really nice people here who can totally relate to your background and experiences. While I am not a New Englander, I travel there frequently and have found some great friends in Tikigreg and his wife, K.O. from CT. I wonder if Tikigreg knows about the Southseas? I was also very intrigued with your experiences in New Zealand, Hawaii, and especially Vanuatu, a place where I hope to visit someday. There are plenty of great Tiki Bars and places around So Cal to visit and you will find many of them in Locating Tiki and Tiki Events thread. Mahalo for sharing your story.

Whilst in college, I lived in the valley for many moons. Don't bother with the Tonga Hut. But do make it a point to come up to Lucky Tiki on Sunday's for DJ Lee's night of Exotica (9:00 is a good time!) Bartender/artiste Suzie calls it "Intoxica" - for good reason! For sure catch Tiki Ti on Wednesdays (my favorite) - and the May 3rd gig for thr Fisherman Trio at the Lava Lounge (9:00 P.M. - $4.00 cover) should not be missed.

This Friday is Tiki Taix XII...see:

http://www.tikicentral.com/viewtopic.php?topic=14332&forum=4&2

See ya there! Wear a blue and yellow lei so we'll know ya!

Fr. Scott

Not to be missed!!

Welcome to Tiki Central! Wow! What an entrance!

Not to worry, there's a lot of us here who are fans of the maori style tikis.

Isn't the Cinerama Dome the coolest dome you ever saw a film in? I saw my first film there, "Ice Station Zebra" (hmm, I just sensed a trend) I was a toddler and just remember the dome building and the great expanses of ice in the film, and being disappointed with the lack of zebras!

To answer your last question, we all probably presume that you have made your journey to Tiki-Ti?

Go. Tonight.
Or on a Wednesday night, you might run into a few TC members. They'll be the ones drinking. :)

On 2005-04-26 21:03, stentiki wrote:
I wonder if Tikigreg knows about the Southseas?

If he lived there during the first half of the 1980s (or prior), and was near enough to Hartford, it was a hard spot to miss.

I was also very intrigued with your experiences in New Zealand, Hawaii, and especially Vanuatu, a place where I hope to visit someday.

Vanuatu has many sights to offer, but remember they are Melanesians rather than Polynesians. The culture is very different; daring to make such an evaluation, I'd say the Polynesian peoples are far more advanced and "intact" comparatively.

For one thing, the Maoris weren't pushovers for White Colonials - they gave as good as they got. For another, even a cursory inspection of Polynesian (at least Maori with my own limited academic exposure) culture reveals it's highly evolved with all of the classic signs of "civilisation": lots of skill specialisation with preliminary forms of "abstract government", i.e., a ruler or officer who holds position not solely through force of arms, etc.

The Maori martial techniques, while not as surgical or elaborately choreographed as Asian styles, are not mere "hack and slash". Young warriors underwent (painful) training with a variety of weapons, many of which seemed rather useful for bisecting the skull with a single "crack!".

When you see a Polynesian crack open a coconut perfectly bisected hemispherically with a deft tap in just the right place, keep in mind they used those skills on animal targets as well. Whoa.

If you make it to The Land of the Long White Cloud (Aotearoa)[NZ], I highly suggest a visit to Rotorua where some careful Maori-owned recreations of Maori villages can be visited. Tamaki Tours in Rotorua operates one where you get to partake of a "hangi" [HAHNG-ee] (feast). The tour group is "cast" into the role of a "visiting tribe" to the village, and an (un?)lucky "volunteer" gets to face down an enormous Maori dude who does his "demon face" and mock belligerent act in front of you (the proper response is "none").

It's extremely educational. I didn't see anything this structured in Hawai'i, though I realise that the Hawai'ian peoples are all but gone (very few pure-blooded stocks left), being a minority on their own islands.

Some of the backpacker owners thought Tamaki was a bit too "political" or "confrontational", but hey, it doesn't hurt to be on the receiving end of some criticism once in a while. Besides which, the warnings were wholly unjustified. They made each guest feel very welcome, and while they didn't pull any punches in detailing their recent history, they certainly didn't "trade an eye for an eye" on that score. I rather liked how they tried to set a "serious" tone for the experience, so that you did have to exert a little effort and some creativity to "join into the experience" properly.

If you want to interface with "real/living" Polynesians, I think the Maoris are your best example. They retained alot of their pride/strength/dignity, and there was some spirit left in them by the time the quasi-cultural apatheid had reversed to one where the government acknowledged and formally accepted their cultural diversity. Maori is taught in NZ schools, and many non-Maoris do speak some of it.

They are the hugest people you're going to meet. I don't mean "porky" huge like Samoans, but freaking HUGE powerhouses of strength and muscle. Needless to say, every bar in Auckland has a Maori for a bouncer. The great thing about them is that you never need more than one.

The old story about a Maori soldier going berzerk during WW2 after seeing a fallen comrade who then proceeded to almost literally take apart over a dozen Germans with his bare hands is probably true.

In what was probably not my finest story of Auckland tourism, on the night of my first trip there (I've been to NZ about 6-7 times in all about 3-7 days each time), I saw three cars of Auckland's "finest" trying to wrestle a drunk Maori into the back of one of their cars. Seven whities with batons, and varying amounts of "armour" versus One Rather Impaired Maori. Frankly, I think they didn't have enough backup. Hitting a Maori with a stick just makes him crankier. And these aren't people you want cranky. That being said, I never once had a single issue with any Maori anywhere in NZ, and the bouncers at bars are friendly and hospitable (provided you aren't making trouble or trying to use fake IDs, no doubt).

The Maoris, like many Asians and related peoples, often lack an enzyme to properly break down alcohols, so it's rather like poison to them. (If that doesn't sink the nail into the coffin regarding the "authenticity" of Mai Tai cocktails, I'm not sure what will - but hey, what does that matter?)

Oops, did I mention I tend to meander a bit in my posts? :)

Mahalo to PapeToaTane for the heads up on the local scene. I figured that if any place in the US would have a thriving Tiki scene, it'd be here in Southern California. I'm realising more and more every day how lucky I am to live here. It'll be three years now. Los Angeles, like all great cities of the world, often conceal some of their best treasures. It takes some time and living there to find and appreciate them.

On 2005-04-26 21:17, ZebraTiki wrote:
Welcome to Tiki Central! Wow! What an entrance!

Why, thank you. It all just sort of "gushed out" semi-stream-of-consciousness style.

Isn't the Cinerama Dome the coolest dome you ever saw a film in?

Absolutely. My first film there was the recently restored/cleaned up Scarface. [Oliver Stone is one talented man - love or hate his politics as you will, he wrote some of the most memorable cinema, including another one of my old adolescent favourites: Conan the Barbarian] The print was amazing - and combined with a story which dates exceptionally well (aside from perhaps the over-the-top ending), I almost felt like it was 1980 again.

I try to catch "spectacle" films at the Dome - it's truly a wonderful place to see films. I missed out on see It's a Mad, Mad, Mad World which is one of the first Cinerama films, and the Dome is probably the only place in the country (world?) where you can actually see Cinerama projected properly from Cinerama prints!

I was a toddler and just remember the dome building and the great expanses of ice in the film, and being disappointed with the lack of zebras!

You Angelenos are so lucky to have grown up here in many ways. There are so many awesome things for kids to grow up with, and contrary to "World Expectation", this isn't a place where everyone cowers in fear of getting "caps" popped into their "azzez".

Then again, there are some HELLS I could have lived without experiencing (even just the sight of): turkey burgers, soybean hotdogs, chicken sausage, and turkey bacon, and "low-carb pancakes". If Hell has a Chef, surely he's in charge of concocting these abominations.

Fortunately, there are still places like Pinks, Philip's BBQ, Woody's, Phillipe's (French Dip), 'Scoe's (awesome fried chicken), and the best/most authentic Thai of any US city I've been to [Ruen Pair!]. And while I miss Atlas Bakery and other Bay Area (NorCal) artisan bakers, La Brea bread does manage to satisfy.

To answer your last question, we all probably presume that you have made your journey to Tiki-Ti?

No! Amazingly, not. I'm still "that green" to this whole concept. I don't even have a proper shirt for such a venue, though I still have three "Hilo Hattie" Hawai'ian shirts in storage somewhere from my last trip to Hawai'i (ooh, about a century ago?) I think a trip to Out of the Closet is in order.

Go. Tonight.

This sounds like very sage advice. I think tomorrow (Wednesday) at the -Ti sounds in order. I might not be "appropriately dressed" though unless I can find a "Tiki Fashion Crisis Centre".

Do they serve any of those classic "flaming drinks" at the Tiki-Ti? I remember Mai Tais and Zombies with some fondness, but it's been FOREVER since I've had them, let alone properly mixed. I will need to "recalibrate" my tastes to what is canonical, I feel.

Aside from Trader Vic's, does anyone do a "Pu-Pu Platter" anymore?

Mahalo for the warm welcome,

=Kukoae=

Welcome Kukoae to TC. I'm sure you will fit in nicely here. I'm very envious of the places you have been and the place you ended up. You are right about the Undermention of NZ. For me they are the ultimate carvers.

I'm sure you will find Plenty of tiki in Socal and also will find Many TC'rs willing to show you around. So come on in and stay awhile.

Kukoae:

Aloha! And Mahalo for your background and info!!

I too hail from N.E.--Southeast MA, actually..and had the same types of experiences growing up as you did. Places like the Aloha, the Golden Crown, Lake Palace...the list goes on and on. The strange exotic food, south seas music, Tropical Decor...they were always my favorite places to go. And your description of the PuPu platter, with the flames in the center...sheer magic, to a 10 year old!!

There aren't many of those places left, but I try to hit as many as I can when visiting home.

Unfortunately, I haven't landed in such a Tiki-friendly spot as you have....but I make it a point to visit where I can when traveling. We made it to Trader Vic's in BH and Bali Hai in SD during my last trip at the beginning of the month, plus the Enchanted Tiki Room in all it's Rehabbed glory. Went in search of Tiki-Ti, but, alas, they were off on Vacation.

Anyway, glad you jumped back in. I enjoyed your first few posts...hope to see many more in the future.

Aloha.

Scott

I used to live in CT and I remember going to a polynesian restaurant outside of Hartford. But I thought it was a Hukelau in Wethersfield. (owned by the same people as the original Hukelau in Chicopee).
My memory is a little hazy on it, all I know is, my uncle was the proprietor of a Polynesian restaurant near Hartford that we used to go to sometimes and it was owned by the Hukelau folks. I'm sure it's long gone.

As for the Maori, yeah, they can be pretty huge. I have a photo somewhere of myself with a couple of the Maori guys who acted in Lord of the Rings (one of them also played Mr. Kill in one of the last James Bond movies) and even though I'm an average-sized guy, in the picture I look like a skinny midget.

Welcome to TC! I really enjoyed your story! My wife and I live very close to the Tonga Hut. We hang out there often. It is an old tiki bar with origianl decor from the late 50's/early 60's when it was built. But as far as tiki atmosphere/drinks, it is just a neighborhood dive bar serving standard booze drinks-not too much exotic drinks. But the people are friendly and the drinks are cheap! I can't tell you much what hasn't already been said about the Tiki Ti. It is THE REAL THING! The drinks are fantastic, but if your're not used to confined spaces....well, someone here on TC compared it to their closet in size. Tiny, but definately the top of the list. My wife and I also hang out at Lucky Tiki, very cool decor and the staff ar friendly and the drinks are very tastey!

Anyway, welcome to Tiki Central!