Carvers....Advice on sharpening strops please.

Hello to all of you tiki carvers. I found only one post that discussed this briefly. That was by Lake Surfer who said he has been using a "power strop". What do the rest of you use to keep the chisels sharp after you finish with the stones???
I would like to know if it is just an old barbers' strop or something else??? And also, what kind of polishing compound is best?? I have lots of uncertainty so I figured I'd ask the experts here on TC.
Let us hear what you prefer. Thanks!

Hello 8ft,
Years ago I used Sandpaper to sharpen all my chisels and goughes. I still use the same method and It works fine for me. I have a clipboard with 1/2 sheets of paper from 220 up to 2000 grit
The grits are 220,320,400, 600,800,1000,1200,1500 and 2000 and placed on the clipboard in that order.
Just start with the 220 (or400 depending on how bad the edge is)Slide the chisel over the grit until any nicks are gone and the edge is nice and flat and evenly shaped. Move on to the next grit and then the next until you get through all the grits. you should end up with a Razor sharp,mirrored finish. It only takes a few minutes per blade. Sometimes you can start with the 1000 grit, but remember you can Polish a dull blade and it will still be dull.
I always thought this was quick and easy, required no power or pastes to forget which strop they went on.
Hope this helps

Thanks guys, that was my next question.

The sandpaper technique is great for chisels of all shapes and is cheap as well! You might also check out this special paper from Lee Valley:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=33004&category=1

It's made from mylar to resist tearing, and comes with a self-adhesive backing (PSA) if you want to stick it down to flat or curved surfaces.

There's a link on the page labeled "Tech" that has a brief description of how to use the sheets.

I don't personally use it, but my Dad keeps his turning chisels tip-top with it.

Also, there's lots of other good stuff at Lee Valley for woodworking, if you don't know it.

Here's to our livers!

[ Edited by: makemake on 2004-04-23 18:38 ]

Sandpaper.......THAT'S GENIOUS BEN!
I would have never thought of that.
Now let me clarify something. (It seems Raffertiki is also interested in the topic and perhaps others are as well.)
SO, I wonder, do you use the sandpaper instead of sharpening stones OR is the paper step done AFTER the stones?
I have a bunch of various grit sand papers I got with some of my Grandfathers tools after his passing. I thought I would never find a use for them.

Makemake, thanks for the link to Lee Valley.
They have some great stuff!

I don't use stones.
I have the stack of 9 sheets sized 8 1/2 by5 1/2 ( 1 large sheet cut in half) arranged on the Clipboard with the 220 on the bottom and the 2000 on top.
Just start with the 220 and Rub the chisel edge flat across the sheet several times until the edge is sharp and has no nicks.(after a few times you will develop a skill and will know how to rub the edge on the paper) If you can imagine the Sharpened edge of the chisel with a coat of rust. You hold the chisel with the edge flat on the paper and rub it back and forth to remove the rust in an Evenway, so that the whole edge comes in contact with the abrasive.
Here is another link with a little better prices but without the adhesive.The Sampler package comes with grits from 150 thru 2000. If you want a higher mirror you can get the Micro-Mesh grits 2400,3200,3600,4000,6000,8000 and 12000, but unless you are doing Super fine work it is just overkill.
I know it is a long way away but at this years Hukilau, I will demonstrate the sandpaper method to anyone who asks.

There's probably as many ways to sharpen chisels as there are carvers. I dig Benzart's clipboard suggestion-- its fast and well-organized. Everything's in one place, and with the right clipboard, you could hang it on a hook in your shop. Very cool.

Anyway, here's an in-depth article that covers three techniques for sharpening chisels-- two with stones and a different technique for sandpaper. It's totally enough to get started:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00003.asp

I've got two diamond stones and two regular stones... but I find if I strop the edges and don't drop them or chip them they're sharp enough to shave the hair off my arm...

Sandpaper... strop... whatever works best for you...

The power strop on a drill takes about 10 seconds for me... nice and quick... the kit retails for $20

[ Edited by: Lake Surfer on 2004-04-24 00:18 ]

Makemake, that was a great article on sharpening, Thanks for finding and posting it. I'm sure all we carvers can get use from it.
LakeSurfer, I have power strops and rubberized wheels ZI use sometimes too, but I always go back to the paper cause of the speed.
Like the guy says "Diffrent strokes for different folks.

A Friend just gave me the DVD by Edward Ellenwood and it is outstanding. This is a Very Detailed video explaining the different Grits, Standing positions, how to hold the tools, how to sharpen Knives, Gouges/Veinirs, Flat chisels, V-tools and Micro tools. Mr Ellenwood shows and explains in such a way that is not boreing how to sharpen each type of tool. He explains very thoroughly,step by step and you will find yourself wanting to sharpen right along with him. He uses stones and Sandpaper ending with a simple strop of leather OR Cardboard. He makes good sense.
I see it available in a Mountain Woodcarvers Catalog but can't find it on their website. their phone is 800-292-6788.
Or available here http://www.marniewhillock.com/sharp-10.html

[ Edited by: Benzart on 2004-05-16 11:21 ]

Thanks for the links everybody.

Up until now I've been using my Dremel tool with a grinding/sharpening attachment for the chisels. This works well for me and is fast - like Lakesurfers.

I think I might try the sandpaper technique and see how that goes and order that video too. That looks to be an invaluable asset.

Well, I promise I thought I knew how to sharpen my chisels before. The video really showed me a Lot and confirmed some I already knew. You are right .This video will be a valuable asset to Any woodcarver, Especially the beginner who has not learned bad habits yet.

Seems like a good time to bring this up since I KNOW there are many Tools out there in dire need of sharpening.

Hmmmmm...Fascinating subject. After 2 wood tikis and no sharpening, I'm in dire need. I just ordered a new Flexcut 6 chisel set to replace my flat Stanleys so this post is perfect timing.

On 2004-04-24 00:16, Lake Surfer wrote:

The power strop on a drill takes about 10 seconds for me... nice and quick... the kit retails for $20

Lake, do you know the mfr or have a link perhaps?

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Ben, that sounds like a great video - I just might have to check that out :wink:

Hmmmm...I've carved five little tikis, and I was worried my tools are getting dull. I showed my tools to the local guru, and he tells me my tools are still WAY sharp, and barely need stropping, and a long way away from needing stones. I guess my tools are just the best!!!

Ben, I had to take a sick day, so I finally got a chance to watch the entire video. I also went back though BK's "Tiki Carving Methodology" post one more time. I think I've learned a ton about sharpening (short of actually doing it).

Lake says with the strop you don't need to use stones or paper, and he sharpens every 20 minutes or so.

With your sandpaper/clipboard method, you don't need oil, honing compound, or even a strop. This seems right for me, because I do a lot of lunchtime carving in the park with no power source nearby.

Using your method, or any for that matter, how often do I need to sharpen my chisels?

Just trying to get this all sorted out before I purchase my sharpening supplies.

Mahalo,

A-A

How often to sharpen tools? The Age old question with a simple answer: When they need it. Some people sharpen their chisels every day before they start carving. Some do it once a week.
I Personally don't care for the power strops too much as they leave a "Rounded over" edgd and Not a straight one. They are good for quick sharpening but if you look at a tool that has been power stropped for awhile, the edge is not straight, Plus it is rounded. The tool edge shouldbe a straight 90 degree angle from the length of the chisel and the Bevel should be a Straight line from the tip to the beginning of the bevel and not rounded.
All sharpening methods CAN produce these curved and rounded edges but the power buff does it more often and quicker. The rounded edge needs a Hugher angle of attack so that instead of holding your chisel at, say, a 30 degree angle, you are holding it at a 45 or more degree angle and it won't cut evenly.
You will notice as you are using a tool that it will start leaving Lines on the surface of the wood. That is from small nicks usually caused by sand or silica embedded in the wood. If the tool is a Roughing-out tool you can let it go longer or until the nick gets bigger (and it will). If it is a detail or finishing tool, you will want to take care of it right away. the longer you let it go, the longer it takes to get it sharp again because it takes more time to grind out the nicks. With the Clipboard of sandpaper. it takes only a few minutes to go thru each grit and end up with a polushed edge. I finish the process with the cardboard sheet that has been coated withhi grit paste as in the DVD. I find it works very well for me.
SoIf you don't mind the "Nick lines" in your work, and want to grind your tools down to nubbs prematurely, don't sharpen too often. Otherwise, remove the small nicks as they develop.
More later

Advice well taken. My chisels will all be mirror smooth in no time! I'm heading down to the body shop supply for some fine grit paper right now. Thanks a bunch, Ben. Take it easy, rest the hand, & we'll see you up & carving in no time at all.

A-A

Excellent advice all around guys!

The only advice I'm going to impart on this subject is if you use V shaped chisels, keep them sharp!
If you are cutting deep Vs especially in hard wood the chisels can split at the base of the V where the hook tends to form, as I've found to my dismay a couple of times now, and I'm not using cheap chisels.
Chisels aren't cheap, but five minutes sharpening before you start work costs nothing.

Yes Cheeky, that cracking is a Sad end to a good chisel. What Usually causes that cracking is improper sharpening. The V-tool is actually 3 chisels in 1 the 2 sides are lke straight chisels and the "Foot" is a gouge. . Sharpenint the V is a 3 step process and the most common mistake is OVER Sharpening the foot. As you sharpen the sides, the foot ( the area on the bottom outside of the tool where the 2 sides meet) starts to protrude. That proturbence(?) is called a "Beak" because thats what it looks like and That portion needs to be sharpened just like a gouge with the Rolling motion from side to side. Look at it under a magnifying glass and you will see it, a perfect mini gouge. Over sharpening this area, thins it at the outside edges og the gouge so what you end up with on the tool is: 1 straight side and a thin metal strip, a gouge and a thin strip and another straight side. Those thin parts will Always crack. I learned that the hard way.
JUST to Confuse you, the Japanese style of V-tool is created in such a way as to NOT Have that middle gouge part instead having a sharp angle. It can suffer the same fate of cracking though from improper sharpening also, but it is not as easy to do and therefore dosen't happen too often. just keep the angles even and true.
The Best thing you can do while sharpening is to look at your edge thru a magnifying glass often to See how the edge is going.
Hope this helps

I saw this at Sears this week and was wondering if anyone had used anything similar. Normally I sharpen my chisels with sandpaper or a stone, but I have some gouges for the lathe that need constant attention. This looks like a cheap and easy tool??

Aloha, These small grinders are great for fixing chipped tools and can be great for the first stage of the thick turning tools. They have a fairly smoothe stone which leaves a pretty decent edge but the tool will Still need more grits to get down to the mirror finish you need.Careful using it though because it can "Cup" the edge, which is very Undesirable.
Hope this helps.

Thanks Ben

So if I were to use this in conjunction with my stones/paper I should be good? The biggest problem is with my Scraper, which requires a sharp 90 degree angle. Almost impossible by hand!!

Yes you can use it along with your sandpaper but I think the scraper would be better with a file for the 90 degree edge, I'm not sure how this grinder would work on that edge.

Any suggestions for a vintage Draw Knife that has a few small nicks in the center, and some rippling on the angled topside?